Okay, I will try to wait until spring, using liberal amounts of perlite. I was planning on changing my AVs from normal pots to oyama pots next spring anyway. We do have the crematic double pots here for violets, but I kept looking at them and thinking 'they are so expensive' and 'I can't see how they don't drown'. Right now I am working on getting my brother to build me a small plant stand with lights. I can live with what pots I have, but natural light is not going to be enough here in the winter. A couple are already reaching up... Thank you all for the advice and links. =^._.^=

I traded some plants for a large mature Hoya carnosa several years ago. The carnosa came in very old compacted soil and was not in the best shape itself. I mixed up some new potting mix and that plant pretty much exploded in growth. The new growth was obviously from the combination of new potting mix and bright southern exposure light. I agree that your plant will always be better off in a new mix, not changing the potting mix will only cause a slow decline in plant health. I think the easiest mix for most people to make up consists of easy to find ingredients. Good potting soil, large perlite, and orchid bark or bark from the pet shop that is sold for reptiles. When using bark it is best to soak it overnight with a drop of dish soap in the water. Not soaking bark causes the bark to draw moisture out of the potting mix and this can cause stress on newly repotted plants. There are many other mixes that you can try but this is a good basic mix that most Hoyas will do very well in. The mix should be quite coarse so roughly equal parts of soil and bark work well and then add about a half part perlite. If the mix is very light and open it will dry quite fast so I tend to add extra soil to allow for better water retention. Another way of slightly altering the mix to be more moisture retentive is to add something like vermiculite or chopped sphagnum moss. The same goes if you want a mix that dries faster, adding perlite, diatomite, or expanded clay hydroponic media or turface will help increase drainage. GG is right on when she mentions evaluating the growing conditions of the plant. When you repot think also about the light the plant gets, is it getting enough? Think also about the watering schedule. If you notice that your house plants get a mineral deposit on the surface of the potting mix then you will have to consider that the water might also be causing problems. Let us know what you decide to do and how it goes. Mike

Well, I potted them individually up in 2/3 perlite and 1/3 soil after soaking the ends in Superthrive for several hours. Then I dipped the ends in a rooting hormone before potting them and thoroughly watering the soil mixture until the water drained from the bottom. Thanks Randy for your advice.

READER FRIENDLY REPOST WITH EDITS Good Day. I am looking for assistance in transferring my Juvenile Split Leaf Philodendron or Monstera from water to soil. I have read a lot throughout this forum and the internet and I have not been able to make a determination of what process will provide the best possible results or outcome.. in regards to my personal situation. I had received this cutting with 2 nodes and 3 leaves in September 2018.. unsure of how to propagate this particular variety initially, I placed it in a small vase of RO Unit water. It started to push a small root within 3 weeks.. I left it alone since it was approaching winter here and didn't want to shock it any further.. it's rootstock continued to grow and it retained all of its original leaves through until spring.. at which time I should have tried to transfer it to soil.. but so much confusion out there in regards to the process... Last summer, June 2019, I had placed it outside on my North Facing covered porch and it continued to grow and live, even producing 2 aerial roots. During which time, I started switching out the water about every month.. all the while I was researching per say. Then time to bring it in for the winter months placing it 2 feet back from my South Facing Patio door, continuing with switching out the water, even putting it into a vase 1" larger due to the enlargement of its rootstock.. It was doing well until October 2019 when it shed its lowest oldest leaf, followed by another within a month.. then it remained stagnant with only 1 leaf and all that remained growing was its aerial roots, reaching to my other potted houseplants. In March 2020, the 1 remaining leaf started to appear to be dying or showing signs of nutritional deficiency, but then paused, and in turn it pushed the new leaf as you can see, and the plant so far has held on to the bad leaf as well as the new leaf. My apologies for the long winded post.. I truly believe you knowledgeable folks can provide me with the insight and better experience to aid this plant into thriving mode and not simply surviving mode. Please feel free to ask me questions as well if anything is not clearly described or detailed appropriately. These are my questions: 1. Instead of trying to transfer it at this point can I just completely cut off off the water roots that have formed, allow to callous, then stick it in 5-1-1, and place outside on the covered North Facing Porch because we have great humidity and heat right now.. or will that cause more harm and setback? 2. Can the water roots even be able to be trimmed so that they are more manageable during the process, if completely cutting them is not an option? 3. Should I prepare a Sphagnum Moss Pole Setup for its support system when potting into 5-1-1 or other type of mix? 4. Should I be using 5-1-1; 1-1-1 Gritty; I also have a modified small batch of 1-1-1 to 3-4-2 from my FLFs; Or even some other mix? 5. What are other methods besides displacing the water with aggregate/mix; a hydroponics setup; dipping roots into a slurry then transplanting to a soil mix? Thank you kindly for your time and patience as I am sure additional questions and information may arise on my end.