To the original writer, I am doing the exact same thing! I had a over range microwave with pathetic fan so I removed it and the cabinet as well. I'm gong to build a faux hood, but because I can't find the right fan to install into the hood, I thought maybe I could use a bathroom fan and duct it out side of my house. Any one think that wouldn't work? The hood will be mad if cedar to match the beams I installed and will go up to ceiling, but will vent out wall... Easier. My issue is that I decided, that while it's blank, before I put in back splash, that I've always wanted a pot filler.. My question, how hard is it, and with minimal drywall removal, would it be to run plumbing? I already have water line cause it runs to fridge. Any advise would be great!!! Video even better!

If there is a neutral available in your switch box, this could be done fairly easily. Electrical theory doesn't vary from country to country: the effective circuit to do this will be the same anywhere. Problem is, the exact details of what type of hardware you use to mount this to that, boxes, covers, clamps, color codes, things like that - they're all going to vary. Electrically, I can use products intended for use in the US on your lights and get the right effect, safely - but I guaran-damn-tee it'd never meet any kind of code :) Exactly what country are you in, so that I can do a brief bit of research on your wiring style before I give you advice you can't use?

if my unit is pushing out 1400 cfm and the main trunk line is sized for 1100 then if I tie directly into the plenum an 8” line that is now a total of 1300 cfm. Won’t the unit still push 1100 through main trunk? So everything or a good amount of it is based on 'If' -- do you really know what your unit is pushing? Trunk line systems start out larger and go smaller primarily for 'throw' or velocity out of the vent. Air takes the path of least resistance. If the trunk was sized for total allowable air flow of the system it wouldn't build enough pressure to 'throw' out of the vent. This would likely lead to very little air coming out certain vents at the start of the trunk. Because air takes the path of least resistance which is farther down the trunk because there is more room now for it to go there. So if you now open up and add another air way for air to go that is going to change the entire equation in things that I can't explain in not even knowing 'exactly' what I am looking at. Trunk based duct designs can work in a residential setting, but preferably I don't care for them in a residential setting (most of the time). The reason for this is primarily control of the air. Trunk based duct designs are the better option for commercial type installations. Residential foot prints are usually smaller, unless you are living in a mansion or something not so typical. A new duct design looks at the whole house --- not just the room with the problem. Without doing that I doubt it is successful under all conditions a home HVAC system is put under.

Your laundry room drains might be 1-1/2"-2"; a toilet needs at least a 3" sewer line (preferably 4") So the issue is: How much concrete will you have to demolish to connect up with a large enough sewer line?