We are DIYers, and originally planned to have cupboards to the counter in one section. Long story, lower cupboard was not delivered with our order, and we now view it as serendipity- cuz it has become our main work/prep space. So, of course there were no UC lights planned for there. After working in the kitchen for a year, DH wanted lights there- so we took down the cupboard (crown molding and light rail hadn't been installed yet), and DH went into attic and we wired it up. Not sure what you could do, if you don't have attic access... I know lots of people have added them after the fact, you can even buy packs of inexpensive lights from Costco... Is it much more... depends on what 'much more' means to you. We have Xenon pucks, and you need one transformer for every three pucks. We have them all wired up to one switch and have them on a dimmer. Now, the dimmer, is used very little on these- so I would pass on that if budget is really tight.

helpmeplease- I didn't suggest connecting the two black wires together! I suggested putting one of the black wires from switch #2 on one terminal of the timer and the other one to another terminal. Now that we know what timer you are using, I still think that, but I also realize I misread your original post. You've got 4 wires on the timer: green goes to grounds, white goes to whites. Looking at the instructions for the switch, it looks like the black wire on the timer is connected to the black from switch #1, and the red from the timer connects to the black going to your lights. Re-reading your original post, I would have connected it the way you did, but the instructions seem to suggest that you had the red and black wires on the timer reversed. If that doesn't work, you may have a bad switch. Here is a link that might be useful: Timer This post was edited by kudzu9 on Thu, Jun 19, 14 at 13:50

What ever you do, do not us irrigation wire nuts. Don't know where you are located but if you are near a large city or in one there should be a Ewing Irrigation Store close. Ewing1.com. They sell 3-M DBRY splice kits meant for higher amps than irrigation connectors. You have less than 50 watts on your 12/2 wire now and you are talking about adding another 15 watts for a total of less than 70 watts... ... ... not an issue what so ever unless you are planning on running those two lights over to your neighbors yard or you live on 10 or more acres and want to put them at the top of your driveway. Is your transformer multi-tap? If so put the 12/2 on the 15 volt tap that way you will have enough oomph to drive the last LED. The industry standard for 12 volt LEDs is an operating range of 9 to 15 volts. Less than 9 volts and the LED will not come on, more than 15 volts and you will burn out the circuit that drives the LED. As always take any advise with a grain of salt and read the instructions that came with the light fixtures and through the salt over your left shoulder. Hope that helps.

NEC 200.7(C) Circuits of 50 Volts or More. The use of insulation that is white or gray or that has three continuous white stripes for other than a grounded conductor for circuits of 50 volts or more shall be permitted only as in (1) through (3). (2) Where a cable assembly contains an insulated conductor for single-pole, 3-way or 4-way switch loops and the conductor with white or gray insulation or a marking of three continuous white stripes is used for the supply to the switch but not as a return conductor from the switch to the switched outlet. In these applications, the conductor with white or gray insulation or with three continuous white stripes SHALL BE PERMANENTLY REIDENTIFIED to indicate its use by painting or other effective means at its terminations and at each location where the conductor is visible and accessible. . http://freenec.com/T21.html