Faron, Thank you so much for writing back right away. You are so knowledgeable and generous with your time. I just want my walls to look nice and I was afraid if I skipped the primer, the paint may not stick. These forums (especially Michael) has taught me how important it is to prep the walls before painting and I can see how nice my other walls look by following this advice and making sure my painter did what I told him to do. But my bathroom was just painted and I am not changing the color much at all. I guess it is my fault for taking a shower too soon in the room and not putting the fan on in the room after each shower since I have no windows and that is why the paint is now streaking. All the other rooms look great and the other bathrooms have no problems that are rarely used. I do have the guest bathroom that I can take showers in for one week. I rarely use it since I like taking showers in my master bathroom with the glass doors than in a tub with a shower curtain. I only use that bathroom for guests or to wash my little doggies. I guess for one week, I can use the guest bathroom to shower in despite a little smell from my doggie's puppy pads in there. I guess I should feel blessed that my townhouse has 2 1/2 baths and has a lot of room. I just keep the puppy pads in there since in the winter time my spoiled little 5.8 lb Maltese, Sassy does not like to go outside. My other little doggies will go outside in my fenced in backyard on the stones but not the little Miss Princess Sassy who has always been like this knowing her cuteness will win out. I am just changing the color slightly since the BM Navajo White is only slightly less yellow than the Deep Cream and the Navajo White which I feel will go better with the bone colored Jacuzzi and the two bone colored sinks and the bone colored toilet, as well as the taupe tiles up the sides of the Jacuzzi and shower stall. The extra gray in the Navajo White surprisingly does not look gray to me in that room but warms the walls up and takes away the lemon cast that to me just did not look right against the taupe tiles. They are so similar in color and the formulas show it (Navajo White has 4 Less Units of Oxide Yellow and 4 more units of Gray and 1/2 extra unit of Orange than the deep cream color but otherwise they are so much alike in formula) but the room will then appear less lemon but still happy and bright and be semi-gloss like I wanted since I have no windows in it and I want to be able to clean it easily when I brush my teeth and get my walls dirty. I love my new pictures and my new olive towels and new olive rug and I feel they will go better with walls that do not have that lemon cast to them. I guess I should ask the paint store for a "liquid deglosser" and they will know what I mean? I can degloss part of the bathroom except for the tallest walls I will not be able to reach even with a tall ladder since I am not quite 5 feet. Maybe I can do what I can before painter arrives and he can do the rest. I think he is not that tall either (but much taller than me) but has tall ladders and long poles for his rollers. I had the painter tint the primer deep cream last time for the deep cream room and bone white tinted for the bone white room. I guess that was not really necessary since the colors are so light. The painter used the Deep Cream tinted primer for the Philadelphia Painted room telling me it was not worth going out to buy new primer. I wonder if this is why that room turned out more yellow than I had thought it would be.

I had the flashing problem with BM Muresco ceiling paint - don't know about their other "flat" paints but this is what my painter told me. We have BM Regal Matte on the walls, it doesn't seem to hold up to scrubbing w/o "burnishing" as well as CR suggested, but you can wipe stuff off. The darker colors (Antique Jade, Summer (blue)) seem to flash a bit too when touching up. But the Navajo White touches up very well. The Navajo White is kind of a ivory-bone, very neutral but a lot less yellow than the Filtered Sunlight I had originally considered (painted a sample) for my kitchen/family room (south and east windows made Sunlight look really yellow). I don't know that I'd want to use it on my ceilings though - depends on what your wall color is. If it's something from the same card, but darker, maybe, but I wouldn't use it with walls that were a totally different hue. Here's the east wall of my family room. Navajo White walls with Muresco ceiling white ceiling. The walls are showing a little yellower than they look in person, but not much. They also look a little green (at least on my monitor) but it's not green at all. It's definitely not "white" though. The good thing is, it's a standard color so you can get a gallon and try a sample, if you don't like it you can return it.

Would you do simply white walls with super white ceilings and trim? Won’t the contrast make the walls look yellow? I would in a heartbeat. It's a very pretty combination. There's enough difference in Chroma that one won't make the other look dirty/dingy. But, yes, Simply White is more colorful, has more Chroma than Super White and it is yellower. The contrast of hue between the two could result in Simply White looking like a very pale creamy off-white. Considering the floor, I'd go with a little more color on the walls. Shoji White, Greek Villa kind of pale, subtle greige-y vibe.

RHM, I will admit that I am fussier than most about my whites. You say you want to brighten up the walls, so my first question would be "what color are your walls now?" Your trim is Alabaster - a light white that is slightly dirty with a little gray green cast, Your cabinets are somewhere between Alabaster and Dover White. If you measure the light, chroma and hue of Dover White vs Alabaster the biggest difference is the Chroma - how gray is it vs how colorful is it. Dover White is less gray so the so the color looks like it is a bit darker and does not have that slight green cast. The first number is light - So Simply white is the lightest color The second number is the chroma - the lower the chroma the more gray , the higher the chroma the more color. The third number is the hue 90 is yellow, 182 is green - this comparison gets tricky because yellow gets kind of olivish green as it goes to gray and when the chroma is really low, like in alabaster I can see that hint of green. Dover White CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 93.765 8.230 99.280° Alabaster CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 93.002 5.636 99.953° Simply White CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 95.648 4.657 106.615° Personally, the first two colors I would test are Dover White and Neutral Ground. I think Neutral Ground is a bit too dark, but I like a little contrast between the wall color and trim color, so I may do 3/4 Dover white and 1/4 Neutral Ground. How I test and blend colors to get exactly what I want is really simple. I own a box of oral medicine syringes - you can buy them from Amazon. When I find two colors that I like, but really want the color to be something in between I mix several variations of the two colors and paint them on 8 1/2 x 11 240lb water color paper. 1 cc of color A + 3 cc of color B 1 cc of color A + 2 cc of color B 2 cc of color A + 2 cc of color B 2 cc of color A + 1 cc of color B 3 cc of color A + 1 cc of color B I mark each sheet with the "recipe" and then test the colors against the colors I already have in my space.