Hey, Guy! I've used about all the methods you mentioned to propagate Kalanchoe cuttings. LOL I really didn't see a lot of difference. But I will say -- please don't use any sand. It tends to compress around the roots and hold too much water. Just not worth the risk. I assume you are in SF Bay area (and not Tampa Bay - yeah, I'm a little snot sometimes) so you won't have to worry about excess moisture blowing in during the summer months. So a potting mix of 50/50 perlite and soil will probably work well for you. I get a lot of rain, so I tend to use an inorganic gritty mix of perlite, turface and granite grit. I can't get pumice here, but you can in CA and it is great. Since these mixes are dry, when I put my cuttings into it I don't wait more than a few hours for the stem to callus. Sometimes I will dip the stem into powder rooting hormone right away and pot it up a little later. As long as I don't water right away I don't worry about rot. After a week I may water a little if the cutting is starting to look dry, but if there are no roots the plant can't take up the water. Some people mist when the plant is dry. When you see new growth, start watering as usual. Here's my original plant with a couple of (etiolated) cuttings started - And like yours, I ended up with woody stems - So I did the cuttings and saved what I could. And they still bloomed! And eventually they grow up - and will probably be woody again soon! LOL Don't ask me why my plants are droopy - like a hanging plant! They always do that and I can't figure out why. I have them outside in partial sun. They fried in full sun for me. But they keep growing and blooming, so I'm happy!

It’s really hard to tell because it’s been in too low of light and has become super etiolated. I’m trying to imagine what it would look like compact. I’m thinking maybe some type of Crassula. Are the leaves fuzzy?

Tonda, I think you misunderstand what Rina means by drainage. The fact that you have put a plastic growers pot into a decorative pot DOES NOT qualify as "great drainage." Good drainage means: 1) That the pot the plant is in has drainage holes at the bottom of it (that growers pot probably does); 2) That the SOIL or MIX the plant is in has been AMENDED so water drains from it easily, shortly after you water it. Rina gave you good advice. I believe your plant will perish unless you change its growing situation. The soil it came in is probably hydrophobic. The peat in that soil has dried hard, and now it cannot absorb water. Even if you put it in a larger container and let it soak, it will moisten up temporarily and then become hard again. That will never change. My recommendation is: ONE POT only, with drainage holes at the bottom and new soil (C/S soil) that is laced at least 50% with either SIFTED and WASHED perlite or washed pumice. NO decorative pot is needed. Just get a clay pot or plastic pot with a large drainage hole or enough small ones, and use the right soil. Reintroduce it GRADUALLY to light, over a week or two, until you can keep it in bright light, even direct light. It's not a circulation issue, in my opinion. When succulents fail, it is a function of one or more of these factors: 1) Poor soil "mix" for the plant. Succulent mixes need aeration with perlite or pumice. 2) Inadequate drainage capability of both the soil and/or pot. 3) Too little or too much light.

1. Sedeveria ‘Letizia’, should be more compact. 2. Not totally sure, but I’d guess some type of Graptopetalum. Imo it needs a little more growth to get a proper id. 3. Hoya kerrii, in general these little heart cuttings will grow roots, but not an actual plant. Some have had success tho, I think you need an actual node to get new growth, I’ve also read that some people have grown a plant without an actual node.