what type of succulent

3 years ago

Hello!
Got this plant for my co-worker about a month ago. Has been going downhill ever since. She waters is roughly once a week-but always swims very dry (well draining soil)
The first pic is about a week ago-the second is this AM. We lost a stalk (?) bottom part was black and mushy.
Hoping to get more information on what type it is so we can better care for it.
Thanks in advance!

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Comments (5)

rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
It almost doesn't matter what 'type' is your succulent: there ae some basic rules that work for all of them. God drainage - I am not sure your plant gets it. Soil it is potted in may be water-retaining, or hydrophobic. Do you know what is in it? Has plant been repotted since you got it? When watered, is the inner pot left inside of decorative pot? You said soil drains well - what are the clues you say that?

End of the stem seems to be rotting, and that is from incorrect (too much) watering: it is probable that soil retains water for too long.

Light - it is very clear your plant is not getting light it needs. Leaves are too narrow, too far apart, and the color is 'bleached out.

Plant is more difficult to ID if in this condition. From the some features, I think it may be xGraptoveria 'Fred Ives'. If I am correct, it should look similar to this:

It is one of the easiest succulents to grow in proper conditions. That rotting branch could be saved by beheading and re-rooting. You should read these THESE THREADS - there is lots of info and photos about re-rooting succulents, including this plant.
Tonda
Original Author
3 years ago
Thanks Rina!! The plant has great drainage-there is a decent gap between plant and decorative. It hasn’t been replanted-this is the soil it was purchased in (from greenhouse) it almost seems that the water runs straight through the soil-would it be possible that the moisture “feeding” it from the bottom? Now that you mention the overwatering from the stem picture, I do believe your right.

The plant sits snug in the decorative one-maybe not enough circulation!!

Thank you so much! I think I just needed someone else to think this through with me.
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Since you‘re growing inside watch for etiolation. Echeveria start showing signs of etiolation fairly quickly. Just pay attention to things like the leaves flattening out, the color lightening up , and or it begins to stretch. If the lack of light goes on for too long your plant won’t revert back to it’s old look. I‘m not trying to freak you out;). If you pay attention to your plant then you can catch it early. One of the main issues I see on this forum is etiolation problems. So I’m just letting you know what to look for. Google etiolated Echeveria there are tons of pics;). Lastly, being inside this guy won’t need too much h2O because plants dry out slower inside. Maybe a good watering every 10 days or so during the hot months. Goodluck;).
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Kara 9b SF Bay Area CA
3 years ago
Yep looks like an etiolated Fred Ives. One of my favs, it’s a good plant to have around. Super easy to propagate too.
robinswfl
3 years ago
Tonda, I think you misunderstand what Rina means by drainage. The fact that you have put a plastic growers pot into a decorative pot DOES NOT qualify as "great drainage." Good drainage means: 1) That the pot the plant is in has drainage holes at the bottom of it (that growers pot probably does); 2) That the SOIL or MIX the plant is in has been AMENDED so water drains from it easily, shortly after you water it.

Rina gave you good advice. I believe your plant will perish unless you change its growing situation. The soil it came in is probably hydrophobic. The peat in that soil has dried hard, and now it cannot absorb water. Even if you put it in a larger container and let it soak, it will moisten up temporarily and then become hard again. That will never change. My recommendation is: ONE POT only, with drainage holes at the bottom and new soil (C/S soil) that is laced at least 50% with either SIFTED and WASHED perlite or washed pumice. NO decorative pot is needed. Just get a clay pot or plastic pot with a large drainage hole or enough small ones, and use the right soil.

Reintroduce it GRADUALLY to light, over a week or two, until you can keep it in bright light, even direct light.

It's not a circulation issue, in my opinion. When succulents fail, it is a function of one or more of these factors: 1) Poor soil "mix" for the plant. Succulent mixes need aeration with perlite or pumice. 2) Inadequate drainage capability of both the soil and/or pot. 3) Too little or too much light.
rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Tonda

robinswfl said all what I would say.

One thing is, I understand ppl want to use decorative pots especially indoors, since the plastic doesn't look good enough...that is why I asked if the pot with plant in it is taken out when watering. If you really want to use cashepot, make sure pot with plant is taken out and all excess water is drained before putting it back. Depending on mix used, that time will vary. I agree with robinswfl that present mix is most likely hydrophobic.

It would be best to repot and use better mix. It needs to have very little if any peat. I would not repot it unless that is done. New plant (which you can get from rotting sem - if you cut that rot off asap) needs to be planted in new mix too.

When repotting, get all old soil off the roots. That is important, because if old, hard-hydrophobic soil stays around them, it doesn't allow any water to the roots. Once you do that and expose plant to the good light, it will grow well and perhaps even bloom - eventually :) Here is a large container I have (beside others in pots) - it grew many offsets and some new plants from the leaves:

and pic of blooms (this was indoors, in Feb.)::