Believe me, you are doing as much damage to your little tree by keeping it inside as you risk by exposing it to the outdoors. There must be somewhere on your property, perhaps immediately adjacent to the house (like a porch, a protected wall or tucked under/alongside a larger shrub) where you can tuck a small container out of direct sun and wind. Because of the potential for poor drainage with your current container situation, I'd repot now rather than waiting until fall. This is a small enough plant and if you are careful with the process, it shouldn't cause unnecessary shock. Use a high quality, coarse textured potting medium that can be purchased at most any retail garden center and as Jean indicates, no rocks/gravel in the bottom or layers of sand. Use a thin piece of screening (window screening works great) to cover the drainage hole to keep soil in and critters out. If the current soil falls easily off the rootball, so much the better as this eliminates any potential soil interface issues. A larger pot size may be appropriate but not necessarily - the root system and how well it fills the current size container should be your guide. For new container plantings, I'd include an appropriate amount of Osmocote or other slow release fertilizer. A granular organic fert would work similarly. 'SuperThrive'(or "SuperJive" as a friend in the professional end of the business calls the stuff) produces a lot of debate - most horticulturists agree that there is absolutely nothing in the formulation in sufficient enough concentrations to do anything (active ingredients less than 1% and one dilutes from there!). But others, perhaps swayed by what has to be the world's tackiest but most persuasive marketing campaign think the stuff is a magic potion. To my knowledge there have been no clinical trials to establish any efficacy, so any positive results are purely anecdotal and unsubstantiated. Personally, I wouldn't waste my money, but it's your choice.

I think you just have some early blight. Possibly botrytis, but most likely EB. As I said before, it's a manageable problem. Start spraying a fungicide weekly until the end of the season, and prune off any yellowing or spotted foliage immediately as soon as you see it. Don't leave the prunings in the garden or compost them (unless you hot-compost and know that the temps get high enough to kill pathogens). Throw them away immediately. As for fungicide choice, all the info in the 4th post in this thread applies to you as well, as the response to many common fungal or bacterial foliar diseases is essentially the same. You are watering way too frequently for in-ground plants. You should water deeply and slowly but no more than every three days in your location. Don't go according to a set schedule but by conditions in your soil. Dig down a few inches in your beds, and if it's still dry a few inches down, then it's time to water. And if you haven't been fertilizing at all, your plants would most likely benefit from a dose of fertilizer now. Unless you have been heavily amending your soil with lots of organic matter for at least a year or so, tomatoes usually benefit from fertilizer. Next year, consider getting a soil test done by a lab before the start of your growing season. Your county extension will usually provide low-cost tests. Don't use home test kits, which are notorious for being wildly inaccurate. Re: mulch materials, compost, and manure-- whatever you use, always do a bioassay to rule out herbicide contamination first before applying any of these substances from outside your control, i.e. any bought mulch/manure/compost or compost made with materials from someone else's yard. Here's how: https://www.rodalesorganiclife.com/garden/do-you-need-test-your-compost-contaminants Good luck. Your season isn't over, you don't need to give up, and everything there looks perfectly salvageable/manageable to me.

Use distilled water ......... or water from a R/O water filtration system (what I use), or rain water, snow melt, or air conditioner/ dehumidifier condensate, all of which are deionized (no solutes harmful to plants) or very close to that state. N/a - leaves appearing at close to the rate they are being shed, or more leaves being shed than are appearing is an unsustainable condition. Expression of the pigment anthocyanin, which produces the maroon coloration of leaf margins, is usually most conspicuous in the very early and early developmental stage of the leaf; however, light levels are an overarching influence at all times. Brighter light will increase the contrast of the leaves' variegative coloration. Not to chide you, but to others, it's important to understand that because a plant tolerates something isn't necessarily an indication its provisional influence is advantageous to the plant. That a schefflera temporarily tolerates temperatures in the low thirties, or ponytail palms tolerate extended periods of drought and/or low fertility isn't reason enough to adopt those parameters as part of the plant's care regimen. The closer cultural conditions are to the limits the plant is genetically programmed to tolerate, the greater the stress the plant must tolerate to maintain viability. Stress quickly turns to strain, which is an unsustainable condition, unsustainable because under conditions of strain, the plant is using more energy than it's producing. In order to cope with severe stress and strain, plants have the ability to reduce the mass living mass the roots need to sustain, and the mechanism by which mass is diminished is my shedding parts to create a balance between the the plant's top volume and the size/efficiency of its root mass. Good point about the tea leaves. I did know coffee and tea grounds are not good for plants until all harmful chemicals have been leached during the composting process (whether in a compost pile or in the pot), but I wasn't aware of their high fluoride content. I did read that in humans the anti-oxidants act as a counter-measure to the potentiality of oxidative stress in humans. I have no idea if that carries over to plants, but I suspect not - just a guess. Something I wrote about the impact of coffee/tea or used grounds in container plantings: Coffee/Tea Grounds Forum discussions frequently center on the question of adding dilute coffee/tea or grounds to plants as a 'tonic', but Arabica (coffee) and Camellia (tea) are known for their toxic alkaloid (caffeine) content and their allelopathic affect on plants as well as autotoxic (poison to their own seedlings) effects on future generations. Caffeine interferes with root development by impairing protein metabolism. This affects activity of an important bio-compound (PPO) and lignification (the process of becoming woody), crucial steps for root formation. We also know that the tannins in both coffee and tea are known allelopaths (growth inhibitors). There are ongoing experiments to develop herbicides using extracts from both coffee and tea that cause me to want to say they might serve better as a nonselective herbicide than as a tonic. I would not use either (stale coffee or tea) by applying directly to my plants - especially containerized plants; nor would I add tea bags/coffee grounds to my container soils. Al

might be a watering issue.. and perhaps excessive fert .. a plant that size simply isnt going to use all that much ... is that where it grows.. it might not be getting enough light thru that frosted window ... and finally .... many babe plants prefer smaller pots ... and up potting as the roots hit the sides or bottom .... i dont think i ever got an answer why ... but it is rather common ... always focus on new growth ... and be sure.. if that is growing properly.. that you dont screw everything up.. being concerned about something that may have happened weeks or months ago ... ken