Donna I had the same issue with the range being higher than the countertop. The countertop is exactly at the proper height of 36" but the lowest you can adjust the range down to is 36-3/16. My bet is this is a carry over from the older GE frame design where the slide in range top slightly overlapped the countertop. The minimum range height was designed so you could not go any lower and put strain on the range top. The best solution I have found is to use the optional GE stainless steel trim kit. I posted a pic of it in this thread back on Aug 5 , 2018. It's getting close to 2 years since I installed mine and still loving it.

Hello all, No I did not end up with the GE Cafe fridge. If you all have read reviews, NO refrigerators have good reviews as far as reliability. I ended up with the Samsung 4-door, French Door, Food Showcase (which is the door-in-door feature). I had time to watch prices since we were in renovation and the Samsung was $1,100 cheaper than the GE Cafe for the same amount of space and I got a couple extra features like the water bottle that is in the left door and refills itself automatically. I thought that was a dumb feature, but now that I have it, I see I use it a lot! It's much faster to pour the water from the pitcher if you are filling up a larger bottle or pitcher, than to wait for the little water filler on the outside of the door. And it was my hubby who wanted that 4th door---which is the drawer right above the freezer. I wasn't sure but I love, love, love that! It holds all our cheese, yogurts a few cans of pop or water, and if I have a half a lemon or something like that, which would normally get lost in the fruit or veggie bin, I just pop it right there in the front so it is not forgotten about! The only complaint I have is that the ice maker takes up room in the top left side of the fridge. You don't have this with the GE. But we got the big 28.7 cu. ft. one and we keep a lot of food and have had no issues with space. As far as reliability, since ALL brands seem to have bad reviews, I figured the best thing I could do is get the most extended warranty possible. So I got the Citi Visa which adds 2 years to any warranty (yes---that's a feature of the card!) as long as the total warranty period is not longer than 7 years. Bought it at Home Depot along with the 5 year extended warranty which was around $295 I think, and then Citi will extend the warranty out two more years to SEVEN years! If a fridge is going to be problematic, I figure it will do it in the first seven years. And they will repair but will replace if they have to come out more than 3 times. So I figure I saved about $1300 including taxes by choosing the Samsung over the GE Cafe. As far as my GE Cafe range and microwave, yes I have loved them both so far! Had the range about 6 months and the microwave about 4 months. I got them both in stainless. Someone asked how far it sticks out from the cabinets. I can see about 3/4" of the black side of the oven sticking out beyond the cabinets and then of course the entire oven door sticks out beyond that. I don't mind the handles sticking out beyond that. It seems normal to me. I love having the double oven and the convection feature, although for 95% of the things we do, we can use the upper oven. There is planty of space fo almost everything including a cake or a deep casserole dish. I use a lot of cast iron so that is good, but I had some old Revere Ware stainless that I thought I could use. They are all good except the ones that have copper bottoms and they won't work on this stove. The microwave is a microwave! Haven't used the convection feature on it yet. Anyway, I would recommend both appliances although they are a bit pricey. They do look great in the kitchen!

We had a bad experience. Our dishwasher was broken on arrival. It didn't work right out of the box. It smelled like mold. Repairing it was a nightmare. It took over a month. Here are some warnings/things I wish I had known based on our experience: 1. You may not be able to return your dishwasher due to it being defective or non-operational. If your dishwasher is—like ours was—defective right out of the box, the procedure for resolving that issue is for GE to send out technicians to repair it, often using parts that themselves are not new and may require weeks to arrive. You can only return your faulty dishwasher AFTER the technician declares it unserviceable. How many months of hand-washing your dishes will that take? 2. Cafe’s return policy ONLY applies to dishwashers purchased directly on their website. If you buy it through a designer for a discount, you may be (like we were) completely ineligible for a return. If you do buy it from the website, you are given a 7-day return policy (in which you need to pay for return shipping) or 30 days in which you can return it for store credit minus a 25% restocking and pickup fee. And after 30 days, your dishwasher is unreturnable and unreplaceable. In the event your dishwasher is defective, it could take you (as it took us) 2-4 WEEKS to get a technician to even look at your dishwasher. This means that, BY THE TIME A TECHNICIAN ARRIVES TO TELL YOU YOUR DISHWASHER IS DEFECTIVE, IT MAY ALREADY BE TOO LATE TO RETURN IT. Catch-22. 3. Service quality is disappointing. Cafe uses subcontractors to deal with service calls. If your dishwasher breaks down or is defective, this means that you may be dealing with a company that is slow, unreliable in showing up for appointments, and may have technicians who are not knowledgeable. As was the case with our technician (from RR appliance in Miami), they may have NEVER EVEN SEEN a Cafe dishwasher before. And these are technicians who were scheduled through Cafe’s own customer service department. 4. Cafe ONLY stands by its product for 1 year after purchase. After that, your warranty expires. Given that there seems to be quality control issues, if you aspire to have a working dishwasher for, say 6 years, you will probably want to price into your purchase the cost of an extended warranty. At the time of this review, the cost for a 5-year warranty from Assurant (…it starts after your factory warranty expires) is $457.75. 5. And…while we are on the topic of extra costs, it may be helpful to price in the cost to you of a dishwasher that is non-operational because you are waiting for a technician to arrive or for parts to get shipped in. In our case, we had to hand wash dishes for over a month before we were able to successfully run a single load in our brand-new, right-out-of-the-box dishwasher. That is 1/12 OF THE ENTIRE WARRANTEE LIFE of the product that we spent hand washing dishes because Cafe/GE doesn’t have the infrastructure it needs to provide fast, efficient service for its products. On the plus side, it is a beautiful-looking dishwasher. And if you (like we did) got it with the matching fridge, range, and microwave, you are pretty much stuck with it.

Carl wrote, in part: "... we are at the tail end ... " Sorry that you missed the note somewhere that the entire kitchen as a system needs to be defined before buying anything and particularly before defining cabinets and cutting duct paths. The kitchen system has to include both the hood system and the make-up air system. Both of these can (in some cases) be relatively non-complex, but one has to analyze air flow requirements and components that achieve them in order to know what to buy. I can recommend parameters that will achieve sufficient air flow in most cases, particularly including hot oil cooking. These are the same as recommended in myriad topics here over the past decade or so, and should have been reviewed when thoughts of kitchen ventilation first occurred. High school math is needed. In summary, for capture the hood has to overlap the rising and expanding (i.e., conical) cooking plumes that are emitted over the surfaces of pots and pans. A 10-degree angle to vertical may be used.* Side cabinets should aid capture and allow a small reduction in hood width. Cooking odorous stuff in the cooktop center can help. Front-to-back "depth" has similar requirements, except that for wall placements, the wall acts as an extended capture boundary. So ideally, for a 36-inch cooktop, that may have front pan edges at 18 to 20 inches from the wall, a 22-inch or greater hood depth is desirable. The 3-inches each side is desirable. Note that the rising plumes are also susceptible to cross drafts and turbulence from human movement, so bigger than the cone limit is better the higher one sets the hood base. For containment, the air velocity entering the base aperture of the hood has to be high enough to ensure that all effluent is entrained into the flow that goes through the baffles. This varies with the plume velocity, the volume under the baffles, and general configuration of internal reflecting surfaces. I recommend 90 ft/min across the area of the hood base, and this translates to 90 CFM per square foot of hood entry aperture. For blower rating, the fan curve of the blower has to be accounted for vs. pressure losses (air friction) of baffles, hood transitions, ducts, wall or roof caps, and of course, the make-up air (MUA) balance vs. house pressure. As alluded to way up this thread, a factor of 1.5 times the required containment flow rate determined from the paragraph above may suffice if the MUA is sufficient. Duct diameter should keep full power flow velocity (duct CFM/duct sectional area) in the range of 1000 to 2000 ft/min. MUA I will defer for now. If you will edit your word salad into paragraphs I will look to see what questions I missed answering. ______ * The plume is actually a distribution function that varies with moisture and grease content, pan surface temperature, and whether the heat source is induction, gas, electric coil, hot coals, etc. 10-degrees should be sufficient to balance the wider plume "rays" against their more easily entrained lower upward velocities.