Pocket door to swing door question? Leaving the track in the wall?

3 years ago

last modified: 3 years ago

Sorry for the probably stupid question. I know nothing about doors. We have a jack and Jill bathroom with pocket doors that we’d like to convert to swinging doors. The pocket doors are old and not smooth and we really don’t like having them in this room.

I looked up videos about converting pocket doors to swing doors. They all involve removing the track from inside the wall. Total novice question, but isn’t it easier to just leave the track inside the wall?

Then install a regular swinging door in the opening? I’m probably oversimplifying it, but has anyone done this? Is there a reason not to leave the track inside a wall?

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (10)

Jesse Fay
3 years ago
So with a pocket door, to leave the hardware in it you'd need to shrink your door frame as that hardware extends further than you think. I included a general pocket door frame picture below.

Personally, I like poket doors for bathrooms over swing doors. The main reason is swing doors take up more room. But it's all preference.
millworkman
3 years ago
You need a clean opening to hang the swing door. Take it all out. It will give you a better opening and wall will be sturdier.
Related Discussions
Constructing 2x6 wall to house pocket door..question?
Q
Comments (14)
Keep in mind that when the door is OPEN it is IN the pocket. When the door is CLOSED it is OUT of the pocket. The 2x6 is turned 90 degrees so the wide face is exposed to the room, and they are used in pairs on EACH side of the pocket (both rooms). You could also just use 2x4s, but turned flat they still flex. The extra wood in the 2x6 helps stiffen the wall back to nearly normal. It also provides the extra depth required to mount any electrical boxes in the wall compared to the metal wrapped 1x in the pre-framed kits. If you use the angle trick to capture the bottom of the door, when a regular width door is closed it will be pretty much OUT of the pocket. This means it is NOT caught on the angle but is free to swing. By extending the door (or using the next LARGER width door, some of the door will remain in the pocket when it is closed. This allows it to stay captured on the track. The pocket needs to be deeper to allow the door to open all the way. The track should also NEVER be attached to a header in a weight bearing wall. A secondary header should be installed with about a 1/2 inch clearance below the structural header. If the header bows (and they all do to some extent) it can cause problems with the track. If the wall is NOT weight bearing the header will not be loaded and you CAN omit the second header.
...See More
Is either a barn door or a pocket door a possibility?
Q
Comments (2)
I'm confused. Of the 12'7" room width, how much will be wall and how much will be opening? If it's 100% open, then barn doors don't make sense in my mind, because they don't close the whole gap and thus don't "hide the mess." Plus a 5 foot door would be huge. I suppose you could do a shoji screen type deal, with 4 3' screens that all collapsed into 3' on one end. But then again, I may be misunderstanding your layout plans here.
...See More
Pocket door question
Q
Comments (2)
I don't know if there's a max width or not, but on the Johnson Hardware site one of the prefab widths is 60". Keep in mind you need at least that much space unobstructed by electrical, pipes, etc for the door when it's open (when the pocket door is pushed into the frame). Hope that makes sense. Lisa
...See More
Double pocket doors or hinged doors?
Q
Comments (28)
What did you do? (Warning: Novel coming:) I am here to tell you that antique pocket door hardware is perfect, but 50s through early 90s hardware is AWFUL. Who ever thought a J channel would hold a door that gets a lot of use was an idiot. But not as big an idiot as anyone who installed it and walked away. It is ALL in the installation. I've put in 15 pocket doors using the Johnson Hardware's extruded tracks, with their 3-wheel system. No matter what the weight, I always use 3 rollers. Not only can I, a self-taught, dangerous DIYer, do it, but it's well balanced and beautiful. You don't need those giant pocket door kits, either. A 2x6 base plate, then 2x4s turned sideways down either side of the 2x6 makes the channel. The hardware goes on the top, add wheels, bumpers, trim and DONE. DONE I SAY! Your hardware fears are only valid if the same installation you're experiencing is used again, or the installation is too quick or faulty. I don't know what I'd do without the 9 extra square feet in my rooms. I've even used antique French doors (perfect for your dining room!?) in 3 of them. In the other doors, I'm using antique, horizontal 6-panel doors (harder to find than the 5-panel and cooler doors, I think) which are solid and beautiful. More interesting than any slab door. The only other tip I would suggest is to make certain they're exterior thickness, which is at least 1.75" thick. Interior doors these days are usually 1 3/8" thick and rather flimsy for a pocket. Today I'm installing the trim on the last of the French doors I'm using. It's an antique (i.e. also reclaimed) and just beautiful. Great sight line from the window in the mudroom, into the kitchen. Gives me more light than my dark kitchen than I'd had before. As you can see, I can't rave enough about my pockets. Don't let some contractor tell you they're too difficult or more expensive. Show them this DIYer's post and I'll help their pro-butts out. Remember, if this (nitwit) chick can do it, a pro should do it with their hammer tied behind their back.
...See More
PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
I agree as to the removal of the whole pocket door install but IMO a pocket is the right answer for a J&J for sure .
cat_ky
3 years ago
I am doing the same thing here with two pocket doors, some time later this summer. It is better to remove the hardware, and do it all the right way, so you will be trouble free. I dislike pocket doors, and will be very happy, once they are gone. I have already removed two a few years ago.
Stax
3 years ago
Remove... and that way you'll be able to replace the stud(s) you removed when the pocket doors were installed.
Sammy
3 years ago
The pocket doors are old and not smooth and we really don’t like having them in this room.

How old are they — 30 years? 130 years? If the former, which I’m assuming is the case, then your issues with them are most likely due to the grade (low-/cheap-/builder-grade) of the hardware and, perhaps, the doors themselves (hollow-core). And if that’s the case, you might be shocked at the difference installing new, more robust, MUCH better quality track systems and doors makes in your feelings towards pocket doors in general.
Stax
3 years ago
New doors are going to be better than doors of 30 years ago? Huh?
3onthetree
3 years ago
Peggies you are now on the blacklist - pockets are the "doors du jour" on Houzz.

I have removed pockets and left in the frame for clear openings. If it is a steel frame you will need to expose the side to unscrew the track, as your steel studs are mounted integral with it. If the swing door latch is against the pocket frame, I suppose you could get away with just a jamb, but if it's the hinge side you will need 1 or 2 trimmer studs. The swing door will be smaller than the nominal pocket door slab size in any case.
catbuilder
3 years ago
Stax, the quality of the hardware and doors in my house built 130 years ago is much better than the quality of hardware and doors of 30 years ago. So, yes, the former being 30 years versus 130 years is correct.
Painted Peggies (zone 6a)
Original Author
3 years ago
Wow, I went to work and this blew up! Thanks for all of the advice, Everyone 😊

Pocket door to swing door question? Leaving the track in the wall?

Comments (10)

Jesse Fay

millworkman

Related Discussions

Patricia Colwell Consulting

cat_ky

Stax

Sammy

Stax

3onthetree

catbuilder

Painted Peggies (zone 6a)
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Pocket door to swing door question? Leaving the track in the wall?

Comments (10)

Related Discussions

Painted Peggies (zone 6a)Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Painted Peggies (zone 6a)
Original Author