That would be the first thing to look for. If you measure back from the leading edge of the door, to where the scratch ends , and then measure back from the jamb along the baseboard, then you should find the culprit. Its fairly simple to remove the baseboard, and eliminate the nail or nails that are causing the problem, unless its painted and caulked in base. If its painted and caulked, be sure to knife the cauking betwen the drywall and the trim before attempting to remove the base. Or, you call your GC, and have him send a guy out to do it. It would be a no charge deal if it was mine.

We just finished our build, and we put in four pocket doors and I love them. We did use solid core & Johnson Hardware. They don't seem to make that much noise. We put in two 36" in our bathroom (one from the bedroom, the other into the toilet room).. these doors are wide enough that they stay partially pulled out of the wall by 4-5 inches, so they are easy to grab when you need to close them. I did put locks on three of them and the latch to pull the door out of the wall (when it's pushed flush into the wall) seems a little flimsy, put no problems so far. The other two doors are both in the laundry room and stay closed most of the time. One of those is a full view, frosted glass door. I was afraid the weight would be too heavy, but it moves very smoothly. I think as long as you use Johnson Hardware, especially with solid core doors, you won't have any problems. The little plastic guides at the bottom haven't scratched our doors yet. Good Luck!

Depending on how far along you are, you would need to remove trim, drywall, electrical and plumbing (if there is any in the affected wall), re-do the framing, installing the Johnson hardware (use only Johnson) and then re-do the drywall, paint and trim. It sounds like a lot, but it really isn't unless there is plumbing or electrical involved (which there shouldn't be if a pocket was planned for the space). It shouldn't matter to you how much work it is. The builder screwed up, he fixes it. That said, why was this not caught long before there was drywall? I assume the pocket door was marked on the plan? And yes, it is worth it. A pocket door was likely put in because it made the most sense for the space (that is why I have the two I have).

Jelly: << Sorry, mag77, but I disagree. I may have to ask questions, but that doesn't mean I am not capable of figuring it out. And I have every intention of installing it >> Good for you! I will try to help. I just meant this is complicated and that on the spot advice might beat that from those who can only visualize the problem. There are all sorts of ad hoc modifications for pocket doors and they can be complicated to explain and carry out. For example, the 3/4" wood "header" can be removed, the aluminum track attached to the framing and the vertical pieces of the frame attached via plates or angles. It's probably feasible to raise the 2x8 or 2x10 header itself. Various types of doors can be shortened in various ways. Et cetera.