Okay, didn't call DCS, but did use the brand new thermom in the oven today. The light above the temperature knob did not click on until I turned the oven to the first degree mark. The first degree mark is 200. I was doing the dishes and did not look at the time so could not tell you how long it took to heat to 200 (sorry), but when I did check it, with the thermom hanging off the top rack right in front by the door glass, the temp was bang on 200. So, turned it down to warm. Did some more stuff and came back to find the temp sitting on 170 degrees on the button. So, at least for ours, I will say that warm is 170. So, on to the higher temp test. I left the thermom hanging off of the top rack right off the front so it was closest to the door glass. Turned the oven up to 400 and went back to doing stuff in the kitchen. When I went back to it the oven temp light had probably cycled a few times and was sitting on ready. Temp in the oven was about 325. Conclusion, like quite a few other ovens we've had, the temp probe cycles to ready before it actually is. Probably due to placement of the probe in relation to heat source. I finally looked at the clock. I checked back after 32 minutes. The temp was at 385 and held steady there through quite a few cycles. So I moved the thermom to the centre of the middle rack and came in and started typing this. Just went and checked it and it is still sitting dead on 385. Nice to know, even if reading low to the knob setting, that the oven holds a consistent temperature. Conclusion then, for me at least again, that the oven is off about 15 degrees low at higher temp. I guess I could call out service on this to see if they can adjust it in some way. I do remember something in the manual saying the ranges were factory tested for oven temp and were non-adjustable. Really, I'm not that bothered. I don't have a problem popping and extra 10 degrees on or so if needed. Not cooked a lot in the oven as yet so may find that I can just set it at the regular temp and never have a problem. Might work out better, who knows. Not sure if it would have any bearing, but we do live at about 5,500 feet above sea level. I did find when we moved here from about 9 feet above sea level that I had to adjust temperatures/times etc. to get things to cook right. As a note, our brand new wall oven does have an adjustment on it. When we did the test on it the oven was about 25 degrees low. So, for those searching DCS and not finding much like we did..... Are we still happy with our DCS? YES, love it. Like any new purchase of anything (kitchen stuff, cars, tellys, etc.), knock on wood no problems with it. Don't have a problem if I need to do a little adjustment on oven temp if needed when cooking. As noted, does take a while to heat that big a cavity on the 36", but we will mainly be using it for big meals and most things will be cooked in our new 30" wall oven. Apart from that, I can pop the oven on and take care of other prep and things on the range top during the heating process so not really an issue for us. Love the looks. More I look at it and use it the more I like the sealed burners, the way it looks and the way it works in general. Our own preference of course. Thought we HAD to have the open burners for that pro look when we were shopping, but now I think it is down to what you like the look of and what work you are prepared to do to keep things clean etc. Both probably have advantages and disadvantages. Hope that helps. Happy Holidays to you also. Cheers

Thanks for all the replies - I can understand why people are suspecting my contractor of ignorance. That can happen, but I don't believe it to be the case this time. I think he is making sure I am happy with the outcome and have a oven that won't tip or tear out cabinet face frame. Maybe he is being over cautious.... It sounds like it is possible to just set the 27 inch oven on top of a base support instead of IN a 27 inch cabinet - is this correct? Then use some filler pieces if there is any space left exposed, right? Ok, so how would you secure the oven if you are NOT screwing clips to the face frame. If we were to anchor it to the back of the wall, it would certainly be secure, BUT, if the oven ever needed servicing or removal, would we have to remove our granite counter to get at it? Also, what should we do about supporting the granite counter above? Should we use the MDF vertical cabinet sides on either side of the oven?? I'm not at all concerned about the cost of the cabinet. It was only $130, then Home Depot gave me another $50 off when I asked about the problem with their cabinet specs. My only concerns are making sure the oven is secure with support for the granite. This oven will be adjacent to a wall, so it is at the end of a line of countertop.

I have modified Ikea cabinets about every way you can just to see if it can be done. And the answer is - "yes it can be done." But that isn't the right question, the right question is - "should it be done?" This looks like 50 dollars of effort for a 2 dollar return in my opinion. When you start modding cabinets you exponentially increase the risk that something is going to go wrong, or that you are not going to be happy with the results, especially in a remodel situation where the walls may not be true, and this is where a few good spacers make things work well. I think that the 1" spacer on the left is going to cause you problems, after handles you have almost no clearance and I bet you are going to end up with dinged doors. You have good sized drawer bases now (two 24" and a 36") I just don't see that much gain from another 3".

I've never missed a bottom element in the Gaggenau, but I don't use it much for baking. When I have, I've been well surprised at how well it does on convection only. I wouldn't want to be without a broiler in the house (I have another oven for that), so it's good that you have a choice of them with broilers. I have the 24" Gaggenau induction with the knob. It's been six years or so, and they haven't brought it in yet, so I wouldn't hold my breath. It's probably just about paying for UL (Underwriter's Laboratory) testing. At the time I did my kitchen, a lot of members here were self importing induction, so there was lots of good advice. It's not expensive. You just have to find a seller who will ship it to you. Mine came by FedEx, and FedEx took care of the customs arrangements for a $5 fee, at the time. The seller hadn't double boxed it, the box was thrashed, and there were a few small dents in the stainless frame. Under the circumstances, I chose to consider it character, rather than a problem, and my kitchen design is busy enough that it doesn't show. So, what you need to do is be sure it'll pass the building inspection, get a letter from your homeowner's insurance okaying it, and understand that there's no warranty. I did check with the local Gaggenau service to make sure that they'd be willing to repair it if necessary. As far as they were concerned, it was no different than one bought here. They warned me that the current difference could throw the clock off, but, in fact, the unit was made for 50 or 60 amps. I assume it's sold in the Middle East or maybe all their units are dual current. All of that wasn't a problem--my insurance agent took care of getting the insurer's approval. Their only requirement was that the installation be done by a licensed electrician. If any 24" induction were available in the U.S. at the time I purchased (several had been the previous year), I would have seriously considered getting what was sold. I wasn't that thrilled with the controls for the 30" models I'd also been looking at, however, and when I first saw that there was a 24" Gaggenau (I was reading the booklet for the 36" one for a friend, and there it was in the same book), I was sold. Then it was just some whining and whinging about how to get it, and a major success. :) I'm not trying to talk you out of your other choices, or even recommend bringing in your own. Just telling my story. Since the Gaggenau is the same as your 36" minus the pair on one side, I'm sure you know how the big double ring works with your pans. I couldn't say about the others. If they don't have a big double ring, I'd give them a go by. I think the auto on for the hood is a gimmick. You should turn your hood on ten minutes before you start cooking anyway.