Pro cabinet painting - who to hire
sl1001
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Mary Elizabeth
3 years agoRockin' Fine Finish
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Pro painters .. how about some painting 101 tips?
Comments (6)wi-sailorgirl, not to dismiss your question, but things maybe not covered here, you can check Google for painting tips 101 or u-tube. Trust me there are lots of information out here. Some good and some well (uh not so informative). If doubts, you can also come back with a follow up question. Anyway, great choice on your selection (Aura). Just make sure you follow the directions for painting with Aura because it does begin to set up in a short period of time. You just can't keep rolling and re rolling. Need to roll it on and move on. Any little skippers you notice, leave along and you can get them covered in the 2nd coat. You didn't say whether you have smooth or textured walls, so I am just guessing smooth here. I prefer to use Purdy's white dove dralon paint rollers. I use a 3/8ths or 1/2" cover. I also will de-fuzz the roller sleeve before using. Get yourself a really good roller frame . You definitely don't want to use a cheap wobbly frame. I use Sherlock roller frame and also their very sturdy extension poles. When you get done painting all you have to do is tap the roller on the side of a garbage can or a 5 & the roller sleeve pops right off. Use an excellent brush for painting your trim. One that has a lot of fluidity and flow. If you are going to tape I would recommend using 3m- orange core delicate blue painter's tape listed as #2080. This is the only tape IMO. I would just make sure you have burnished the tapes edge down really secure. If you use any type of tool to press the tape down, you will need to be really careful about not poping a hole in the tape. Trust me it can happen. I myself use my index finger and lightly press the tape in place to get a seal and then I run my finger back across the tape really really good for the final secure. When you are finished painting, if the tape seems to be a little stubborn in releasing, take a box cutter or one of the craft knives to lightly score right where the tape edge is. This should release for you and don't remove at a fast pace. Remove the tape back onto itself. Oh and with Aura , it would be a good idea not to have blowing air directly onto the work surface and if you have an outside wall that gets heated up I would paint this wall first. I am very particular about the temperatures in the rooms I am working in. They can make or break a paint finish. Another thing, if you don't feel comfortable or secure about using the Aura and afraid it will start to set up on you, I would like to also suggest using an x-tender for Aura. I only use XIM x-tender. Just make sure you follow instrustions and stir, stir, stir to make sure it has incorporated into the paint. As far as washing your walls , sometimes that is overkill. In other words how long has it been, are there lots of spots or is the wall really dirty or just dusty, what finish is on the wall at the present time. If the walls are in good condition, just make sure you have dusted all over and if you had to make any repairs , dusting and removing all little flying debris. Washing walls and priming all the time is really ridiculous. Just have to thoroughly examine the walls to make the right determination. Yes, I would cut in the second time as well. hope some of this helps. Good luck. :)...See MorePainting/Staining Kitchen Cabinets? Who has Experience?
Comments (11)I am just about finished painting my cabinets, which had already been painted at least twice - the last time badly done by PO with cheap paint and the paint was peeling/chipping. I found a post on GW about painting cabinets which was very helpful. Essentially, sand the surface to remove and rough or peeling previous pain or in your case to rough up the surface for better adhesion. Key step: PRIME. Use a good primer, the thread I found recommended the primer I used which was expensive for Primer ($38/gallon) but it did seem to do a great job and I only needed about 1/3 gallon and I had to do cabinet faces as well. It is Sherwin Williams Problock latex primer, designed to adhere to glossy and previously painted surfaces. Use one coat, over-priming is not good. This primer can be topcoated after 1 hour, so you can apply the paint after that time has elapsed. I am using BM Aura because I wanted a BM color. However BM also has Cabinet Coat which is supposed to be excellent for cabinets. It is more of an enamel finish. I wanted a regular latex because it is more flexible and my cabinets had already been painted a few times so there are multiple paint layers and I suspected a hard paint might crack. For your unpainted cabinets though Cabinet Coat might be better. I primed and painted the backs of the doors first, then flipped over and did the fronts. That way I could sand off any drips that came around onto the front, and any mars from having the uncured paint face down would be on the inside of the door. I let it all dry for 24 hours before flipping over of course. But the paint is not fully cured at that point. I put the doors on strips of wood to elevate off the ground and allow edges to be painted, but painting on a table would have been far more comfortable. I did it outside because it minimized paint fumes in the house. I used a brush, not a roller. I've never been able to get paint smooth with those foam rollers I get bubbles everywhere. When painting over original wood you are supposed to paint with the grain not against. Mine I alternated the primer and paint since there is no remaining grain to show through all the existing paint coats! It's a lot of work but as the kitchen is functional without cabinet doors, you can do a few at a time and not rush. Having them professionally painted would certainly be a lot easier, but with the paint costs only, it is very cheap (less than $100) to DIY....See MoreHire a Painter or a "Cabinet Guy" for Kitchen Cabinet Color Change?
Comments (2)We bought a house recently and our kitchen cabinets are not old (~10 yrs) and great quality and we like the configuration so we decided the only thing we wanted to change is the color. They are currently stained with a glaze. We want a clean white or off\-white look (no glaze). We have a lot of cabinets and are not skilled in DIY so we agreed to hire a pro. The problem I am having is determining what kind of pro/process we really need. I have received at least five (5!) quotes which is a lot for me. We got two from painters and three from cabinet specialists. The cabinet guys' quotes were 10-12k. The painters quoted 3-5k. We got samples from one painter and two cabinet guys and I do think the cabinet guys' samples were superior - they basically look like factory cabinets but I am reluctant to spend that much money for changing the color and the painter sample seems good enough to me. I would go with the cabinet specialist, however if painting is going to be significantly less durable. The painter said he would use oil-based paint, no poly with a high volume, low pressure sprayer. One cabinet guy said he would use poly (I was less confident in him); one described a multi-step curing process (a franchise called n-hance https://www.nhance.com/blog/service/cabinet-color-change/)) that uses all water based products. Now I'm getting a bit daunted by the differing approaches and posts I've read and not really knowing the right path. Any advice? I've seen lots of posts about Cabinet Coat which I hadn't heard of. I'm including a couple of pics of our kitchen. http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3425364/hire-a-painter-or-a-cabin These are pictures from before we bought the house so we have changed wall colors and furniture and such but hopefully you can see why we want to change the cabinet colors \- they are beautiful but they blend right in with the floors, giving a sort over-all "blah" effect. Any advice is very much appreciated!...See MoreApproximate price for pro painting of dark oak kitchen cabinets
Comments (5)TY for answering, but the pros take advantage of women. I am asking consumers, those who have hired pros, what they have paid for this service in their own homes....See Moresl1001
3 years agosl1001
3 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
3 years agoshirlpp
3 years agoUser
3 years agoMary Elizabeth
3 years agosl1001
3 years agosl1001
3 years agoMary Elizabeth
3 years agoWendy Kroy
3 years agoMary Elizabeth
3 years agoWendy Kroy
3 years agoBeth H. :
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoLori A. Sawaya
3 years agosl1001
3 years agoRockin' Fine Finish
3 years ago
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