When it comes to hardwood, trends are something to ignore! Why? Because hardwood is pretty much a lifetime purchase, and unless yours is damaged in some way, you're probably not going to replace it. So, light wood vs. dark wood, wide planks vs. narrow planks -- that stuff's all going to come and go. With that in mind -- as well as the very real concerns about cleaning dark wood -- I'll vote for a nice, neutral midtone every time. Not too much contrast, not too red, and (unless it's a beach house) not too pale. I think this is the wood that's most likely to give you good service and stand the test of time.

I would get a grey that sometimes looks blue, then and more coke with art and accessories. If you end of changing your furniture, you’ll still have flexibility without having to repaint.

When it comes to "trends" vs. "timelessness" you want to look at your personal timeline for selling. Are you planning to sell in the next 5-7 years? If so, go with the trend and ignore your own tastes. If you sell in a few years then you are not buying/constructing the home for yourself. You are creating it for the NEXT buyer. If you are in it for the long haul (7+ years) then you put in the floor that makes YOU happy and that makes YOU smile and that makes YOU feel better about your choices. If you want flooring that can be "extended" into other areas for a later remodel (like in 10 years time) then work with the 3" product. It will be around for a long, long, long time. Wide planks are trending HEAVILY right now. They come and go. And if you are in there for 10+ years, you will want to have the option of refinishing so that when it comes time to sell, you can update your floors for $5/sf instead of having to pay someone to rip out and replace the floors ($10+ per square foot for a job like that).

First of all, I've taken carpet out of many areas where there were original hardwood floors underneath them. A hardwood floor is not structurally worse than plywood; in fact it is better quality wood and therefore structurally better. So, if I were going to do LVP throughout the home, and I was worried about the subfloor (the plywood part), I would pull the carpet up first to see what is under it. If there is structurally sound plywood under the carpet then you can make your decision from there about the hardwood. You could always raise the carpeted area to the level of the hardwood and do the LVP then, which could potentially save you money, depending on the size of each room.. Or, you can look for a reducer (strip that connects two different kinds of flooring), but that probably won't be your first preference because it will create a lip and looks old fashioned. Second, in my area (midwest) the market for good used carpeting and any hardwood flooring is so hot that pre-pandemic I advertised an entire second floor of carpeting, in good used condition (no stains, but used) on craigslist and within 24 hours it was gone. People came and took it all, padding and everything. Same with hardwood - family members took theirs out, replaced it with LVP, and sold the used hardwood at an overall profit. It is not hard to take carpet out; hardwood can be trickier depending on how it was put down. Seriously, I'm a 50 year old woman and with a claw hammer and some gloves I could get that carpet up in an 6 hour day, pad and all. Two preteens could take it up in half that time. Now if the subfloor is concrete (no basement), then you may have to scrape the glue off when you remove the padding, but even then glue is usually just in targeted lines, not evenly spread all over, so there is not much to get up.