@SJ McCarthy I appreciate your response however...

Stringers are actually on the outside of a stairwell that is open on one end. My stairs are sandwiched - that is not open on either end - between walls so the sides are called skirt boards. It isn’t a matter of semantics given location matters.

I would encourage you to re-read my original post as you have made some very inaccurate assumptions, heavily deviated from the intent of my original post, exaggerated the work required, and have also not directly addressed my questions.

Namely:

1. This project was cosmetic meaning there were no structural alterations. It seems you may be unfamiliar with how the lip of existing stair treads that remain in-place are adjusted to receive hardwood treads and risers right atop to preserve the minimal costmetic nature of the “renovation“. Regardless, references to code are therefore entirely irrelevant. This is a quality/ craftsmanship issue from an aesthetic perspective!

2. I get that the average homeowner may not be the most informed, although NOT everyone is so “green” to pay upfront giving a contractor no incentive to do the job in which they were hired to complete.

3. Similarly, one shouldn’t assume that the ‘big boys’ always perform as they are contracted. Unfortunately, in my case, Class A contractors who are insured and bonded with decades of experience aren’t immune to performing subpar work nor subcontracting out to those who perform subpar work. Thankfully, I had hours of video footage to substantiate what was/was not done!

With all of this said, I am seeking insight into how this - filling shallow holes/depressions should be flushed out with skirt boards - NOT who should be hired to do the work. If you cannot answer, that is fine although I would appreciate responses to my actual questions.

Note:

1. It is NOT necessary to replace skirt boards therefore all of the extra mentioned is beyond overkill, and, quite frankly, off topic.

2. This inquiry is limited to flushing out depressions and filling in boundaries between wood plugs and skirt boards.

Use Bondo wood filler and fill all the holes you have, sand, and finish it. Bondo can easily be shaped if anything along the profile needs to be repaired or filled. Use trim on top of the stringer that will take care of the wall.

If you have never done this type of work, as SJ McCarthy suggested get a finished carpenter he will take care of everything all you have to do is apply desired finish.

I agree with GN. I've successfully stained Bondo. These repairs are no where near eye level, so you've only got to get them close to pass.

You can remove the scotia and do one of the following:

• Install wooden plug, sand and paint. Be sure to have the face grain showing and not the end grain.
• Pack it with baking soda, apply super glue, sand and paint.
• Fill with Bondo as suggested, sand and paint.

@GN Builders L.L.C I appreciate your response. I’d never heard of Bondo but will certainly look into it.

BTW, I do all of my trim work myself - baseboards, crown, shoe molding - even scribing filler strips and casing for cabinets and windows/doors, respectively, to adjust for wavy walls and due to my distaste for caulk as a bandaid for poor craftsmanship. I’m 98% sure I could scribe replacement skirt boards if I cared to do so but it’s entirely unnecessary. So, I’m a bit of a perfectionist and self-taught the “finish” work that you all keep referencing years ago. I’m sure you all mean no harm, although please stick to answering what is being asked.

@G & S Floor Service Thanks for your response. I’ve never heard of using baking soda to pack/fill holes...interesting!

Give it a try. It will be hard as a rock. once the super glue dries. It’s ready for sanding.