I have a PL that is huge, I got it from my grandmas funneral 4 years ago. It has been doing well and growing and producing flowers. Heres what I do. . . It is in a 10" pot (big I know but ths plant is huge)with drainage holes. I repotted it using Miracle Grow potting soil. It sits in front of a west facing window where it gets lots of sun and full direct sun for about 4 hours a day. When the leaves start droop slightly (not wilt and fall down, just hang less erect) I take it to the bathtub and water it w/ a 3 gallon bucket, let that completely drain and repeat 2 more times. I let it completely drain before setting back in front of the window. How often I water depends on the time of year, sometimes I water it every week (summer) and in the winter I water it approx. every 10-15 days. I let the plant tell me when it needs a drink. I NEVER let the leaves wilt, there is a fine line between drooping slightly and wilting, as in a few hours. For instance, I noticed one night at bedtime that it needed water and was going to water it the next day. The next morning it had wilted, but after a good drink it perked right back up. This is very damaging to the plant, so I don't let it happen if I can help it. I feed w/miracle grow but not very often. It blooms three - four times a year for me. Hope this helps.

I strongly suspect that you are over watering your plant. This seems to be the primary problem with those who seem to struggle with Peace Lilies. This is a plant that hates to be water logged, but shouldn't dry out, either. These can be very difficult plants, darn it all! Though I have never thought of these plants as needing supplemental humidity, I will suggest that misting plants that are exhibiting brown spots is not a good thing. The act of misting moistens the leaf surface for a few minutes, but does nothing to humidify the surrounding air. Misting may even slow down a plant's transpiration process, not a good thing for a plant that has been over watered. Misting can certainly spread disease, however.

Whenever you remove part of the roots (including damaging during repotting even if you don't root prune) the plant is put out of equilibrium. The amount of leaves to roots is a delicate balance and so when you take the roots, the leaves sacrifice themselves (the oldest) to put extra energy into recovering lost root mass which will actually increase overall vigor and health of the plant. The same goes if you prune a plant back way far. The b plant uses root material as a sacrifice to put out a flush of new growth so photosynthesis can again commence.

OK Dave & Karen - here's my Friday visit update. I found the plant to be totally wet. The problem - as Karen pointed to in an earlier reply - is that there are too many cooks etc. There is one lady volunteer in whom I have full confidence to look after the plants, but there is another male volunteer who is over-eager on watering plants. I can tell just from looking at the top of the soil that he has saturated the plant from the top down. My coffee stirrer test confirms that. He will be told to leave the plants alone. The lady volunteer is at the Club every day, & I told her to stop all watering to allow the plant to dry out & wait until it shows signs of wilting. Then resume weekly reservoir watering. Meanwhile, the yellow leaves have shriveled & there are no new ones, but the flowers are not looking as healthy as they were. Also the lady volunteer said (before I even mentioned the matter) that in the mornings & early afternoons she will move the plant to the outer area where there is more daylight & sunlight, then in the afternoon when the sun gets hot she will bring it back inside. So I'm hopeful that in a few weeks time the plant will be back to a healthier state.