In the OP, it was mentioned that the plant was above a "rock filled water tray ... for humidity. I hope it's not sitting in its own effluent that collects in a drain saucer. Using a wick, like mike suggested, would be less effort and will accomplish the same thing as employing the pot-in-pot technique. The problem with pot-in-pot is, the water in the soil of the larger pot is going to stay there until it evaporates, and I can see some potential problems associated with anaerobic decomposition in the larger pot's soil. Skip the water meter. Buy a 1/4 or 5/16" wood dowel & sharpen it in a pencil sharpener. Use THAT to test the soil for moisture. Push it deep into the soil - if it comes out damp and dark or wet - no water required. The fertilizer is appropriate insofar as the NPK ratio, but what else does it contain? Reading the ingredient list of the potting soil and assuming the ingredients with the highest volumes are listed first, it HAS to be extremely water retentive - which means you can't water appropriately w/o risking root rot or at least impaired root function. You can't move it outdoors, but that's where it WANTS to be. Here's the thing - bottom line: The plant is obviously suffering because it's being forced to deal with cultural conditions it's not genetically capable of dealing with. If you can't isolate and fix the issues that are causing the decline, it will continue, so you'll need to go back to the drawing board and look at the big picture. The first considerations are checking for insects & root problems/disease, and making sure the plant is in an appropriate soil (if it's not, your watering habits need to be adjusted so they allow for a poor soil) and in the right light/temp range. If these issues don't come up in the favorable column, there isn't a lot of sense in chasing it much further until you're willing to take charge and make some changes. That might sound harsh, but it's just how things are. Al

I don't know if that would cause the problem. But you should tell them no more herbicides or chemicals since you no longer have a lawn but an orchard with grass. The half life of that chemical in soil is 1.5 years and plants take it up through their roots... The trees could be having trouble for other reasons. The mulberry does not have iron deficiency, that first appears on new growth. That is probably magnesium deficiency. Are the roots healthy? The leaves look a little wilted to me, maybe it is overwatered? The fig looks stressed but not sure why. How have you been watering it and how long ago was it planted? Which region do you live in and what has the weather been like? Some more pics might help.

"where do you buy fluoramite and other more potent miticides?" I gave one link at http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3728203/brown-dry-spots-on-ensete-leaf?n=3 Small quantities of Floramite and Avid can be bought on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=%22led+floodlight%22+10W&_sop=15&LH_BIN=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfloramite.TRS0&_nkw=floramite&_sacat=0

I think you just have some early blight. Possibly botrytis, but most likely EB. As I said before, it's a manageable problem. Start spraying a fungicide weekly until the end of the season, and prune off any yellowing or spotted foliage immediately as soon as you see it. Don't leave the prunings in the garden or compost them (unless you hot-compost and know that the temps get high enough to kill pathogens). Throw them away immediately. As for fungicide choice, all the info in the 4th post in this thread applies to you as well, as the response to many common fungal or bacterial foliar diseases is essentially the same. You are watering way too frequently for in-ground plants. You should water deeply and slowly but no more than every three days in your location. Don't go according to a set schedule but by conditions in your soil. Dig down a few inches in your beds, and if it's still dry a few inches down, then it's time to water. And if you haven't been fertilizing at all, your plants would most likely benefit from a dose of fertilizer now. Unless you have been heavily amending your soil with lots of organic matter for at least a year or so, tomatoes usually benefit from fertilizer. Next year, consider getting a soil test done by a lab before the start of your growing season. Your county extension will usually provide low-cost tests. Don't use home test kits, which are notorious for being wildly inaccurate. Re: mulch materials, compost, and manure-- whatever you use, always do a bioassay to rule out herbicide contamination first before applying any of these substances from outside your control, i.e. any bought mulch/manure/compost or compost made with materials from someone else's yard. Here's how: https://www.rodalesorganiclife.com/garden/do-you-need-test-your-compost-contaminants Good luck. Your season isn't over, you don't need to give up, and everything there looks perfectly salvageable/manageable to me.