Hallo, Thanks for the replies, I am just as devastated however, sure I can buy new plants, what I cant get back is all the effort. & in regards of sweet old auntie, she is healthy as a springchick, if only.. You see it is for me easier to forgive if shed only said, oh I am sorry I did not realize but to just shrug her shoulders as if she tossed out the compost as garbage~ which also by the way would make very irritated.- Thereof my question about some passive agressive gesture.....? In any case, it wont do that she behaves like this, it must be dealt with but I was in fact raised in very strict terms when it comes to our elders, I cant concieve how I can insist on the importance of her actions as it would give me a massive panicattack. in fact I am cringing just thinking about it, Besides, Nickvilledudes, you were instrumental in helping me when I first started out with the species, is the fact that your yard is CRAMMED with upteenth FAB clemmies allowing you to be the fat cat here? I know how long you have been doing this OF COURSE I KNOW I can buy new ones. That does not help one lousy bit I am afraid, actually, it feels like somebody put a wet stripe of leather around my troath~ should I say heart?~ & I am stuck in the sun as the strip slowly shrinks as it dries up. No offense but howabout some advice I could actually make use of? What do you think about me getting some blooms at all this season? with damaged rottball & all? Can you, oh wise one, think anything I can do to speed up recovery? My gardeningbuddy who's done this these past 20-25 years stopped by to help me with the faucet & I had to send him home as I cant set my foot out in the yard. He left green in the face, saying that my clematises makes him sick to his stomach. He is normally of the same consitution as your advice actually, relax it will come back type of thing,not today thou... Especially as the hedge of roses is ablaze in buds. there SHOULD have been clemmies in there. My apologies for the sorry state of this posting Oh I forgot, her reason for doing this? They were CHOKING the rosebush!!!!!!! %^$$%#%#$@$%R*&Y*()! cowmanure!! arrggh, gawd I am going to have a heartfailure. In my opinion, MY summer ended yesterday. NO KIDDING. Kerstin.

Gas puts more heat into kitchens than electric stoves although some or a lot of that can be mitigated by running a range hood that vents to the outdoors. Do you have a range hood or are you getting one? Gas puts out more heat into the kitchen simply because gas burners are less efficient at applying the burner energy to a pan. Smoothtop radiant electric burners, like on your old stove, will apply roughly 50% of their energy into pans, assuming the pan is well matched to burner diameter. With gas burners, it will be somewhere between 33% and 40% depending on the stove, burner design, burner size, grate design, and pan size. Also, gas ovens tend to vent more heat into the kitchen and the combustion by-products (mainly water) make for a humid and therefore hotter feeling heat. Convection fans add to the amount of heat that gets vented. If you have not already done so, I suggest you search for Bertazzoni threads here as I recall there have been several in which posters have discussed questions like yours in the course of the thread. I do not have a Berta, so I cannot give you more specific information. But, again, a good venting rangehood can make a lot of difference in how comfortable your kitchen feels when cooking in hot weather. As for control, many people find gas easy to control because you can see the flames which provide "direct visual feedback." With an electric stove, you learned what knob, dial or position will be approximately right for the pan and what you want to cook. You would have to relearn some that with any new stove you get, gas, electric, induction or whatever. Gas knob positions may be rather similar to what you used with your old stove, but you will still need to watch and get some experience. Should not be difficult, at all. For learning the oven, I suggest you get a couple of inexpensive oven thermometers and use them to get a sense of how evenly the oven heats and how precisely the knob positions correspond to the actual heat in the oven. Baking stones will work fine. With vintage 1950s and 60s gas stoves, one of the longstanding "tricks" for breads and pizzas was to use unglazed quarry tiles (which is essentially what a lot of baking stones are). Preheating them (often laid on the oven floor) could make for a very even heat. (Read the Berta manual to make sure that layering tiles on the oven floor is not going to be problem.) There is no reason that baking stones on the regular racks should not work well. This post was edited by JWVideo on Wed, Dec 5, 12 at 17:22

i planned to. I have a large distressed mirror over my vanity. I planned to suspend another mirror in front of it, to be able to see myself. To my surprise the distress is light enough and mostly on the edges so I dont bother. I look a little better slightly distressed. What does this have to do with you? A glass expert MAY be able to drill into a mirror, but it's unlikely. A layperson def not. What i had planned to do was to hang it from ibolts in the ceiling using fishing line. Just an idea.

The big reason why I would get that pipe out of the way is because I just know that after the novelty of having a 'new' laundry room wore off--like within a year--I would be kicking my own butt for the next five, ten, fifteen or however many years I lived with for not having dealt with it at the get-go. I love your laundry space & wish I had something like it to work with! (Love that door w/ lites.) Mine is in an expanded closet in the basement with HVAC ductwork and the breaker box in the way of doing much of anything with it. Those fold-out drying racks are awesome but I've nowhere to put one. The most important thing with butcher block is to coat both sides & all edges equally & with the same product. Top coat with poly? Not if you have already applied a non-drying oil (mineral oil, for example). The top coat won't adhere. IF you used a drying type oil (tung oil, boiled linseed oil, etc.), with proper prep, you can top coat after the oil has fully cured. If you used mineral oil, be mindful that oil can leach out of the wood onto clothing if left laying on the surface. You should be OK w/ incidental contact if not freshly oiled. Just don't leave anything you care about laying on it. Again, IF you used mineral oil, you can use a penetrating drying type oil finish that should sufficiently seal the wood and prevent any leaching. Equal parts tung oil, oil-based varnish and mineral spirits. Multiple coats flooded on, let set a bit, wipe off. Let dry and repeat. You'll need at least three coats, probably. Depends on the wood & how porous it is. Keep applying until it has the sheen that you want. (I buy real tung oil & mix my own because many of the 'tung oil finishes' on the market don't actually have any tung oil in them.) Avoid linseed oil like the plague in a moist environment like a laundry room because linseed oil can support mold & mildew growth. Another thing--I use gloss varnish because it is more durable than the reduced sheen ones. The addition of 'flatteners' in semi-gloss, matte, etc. makes for a softer finish. If the finish is too shiny for your taste, you can use steel wool or the 3M 'scotch brite type' sanding pads to reduce the shine. Last thing--if you use the home made oil finish and it starts to dry & get too sticky to wipe off, coat it with fresh finish & wipe. The solvents will soften it up and make it easier to wipe down. ***Last, last thing--very, very important. Any rags with finish on them should be hung to dry or burned immediately because they can spontaneously combust. I hang them outside on the edge of my firepit and either burn them or put them in the garbage after the rags are thoroughly dry & stiff.