Hi Donna, Ugh. Well, we used a NobleSeal membrane underneath it, which is waterproof blah blah. Then the 1" hex tile was porcelain, so also impermeable. According to John Bridge and Bill Vincent, what happened was that the latex or whateverthehell from the thinset needed lots more time to evapoprate or whatever than we gave it, due to the fact that it couldn't go anywhere but through the cracks. Even though we waited about three days, it wasn't enough, and after we grouted, the stuff kept evaporating through the grout and turned it white. I defer to the experts on how long you need to wait if you didn't use so many impermeable materials. The grout package said something like 48 hours I think. But since we did use these materials, I think we should have waited several days or even a couple of weeks. But who knew?? Oh well, it's fixed now. But man was it a pita. Ivette

tking, hope it's not too late but I have a picture I can post for you now. I'm very happy with the way the two tiles work together. We ended up using platinum grout on the ming hex floor tiles and white on the white subway tiles. The room is very bright from a horizontal window above the shower/tub area. The brightness of the white subway tiles is very pleasing to me. There is a large tree outside the window. The green of the floor tiles ties nicely with the green from the tree. Then everything else is white. Interestingly, in photos the floor looks darker than it does in person. Here is a link that might be useful: Ming green hex and white subway

I'll definitely try to get a hold of a sample of Silver Shadow as I can see from responses here and posts elsewhere that it is quite popular. I'd still love to hear from anyone regarding Warm Grey, Smoke Grey and Mobe Pearl. How do they range in terms of light to dark? Which comes closest in tone to Misty Grey, which seemed like a good color, but too dark? I want to avoid any blueness (so don't think Platinum would work), while also steering clear of too much beige (Mobe Pearl?). Thanks for the comments so far!

Sanded versus unsanded is based on the width of the grout line: 1/8" or greater, use sanded. Sanded has...ta da...sand as a bulk filler to minimize shrinkage cracks in wider joints. If unsanded was used in a wider-than-recommended grout line, it's not a guaranteed recipe for disaster. If the grout does shrink and crack, it'll usually flake out of the joints as well. Some have simply regrouted over the cracks to fill them in. It's a band-aid approach. It can work. Or it may not work. The better bet is to remove the grout. I've only had to do it once. I used a diamond bit in a dremel-type of tool. Dusty, dirt.