Island Pendants in u shaped kitchen?
101newkitchen101
3 years ago
Have to pick my pendant placement before my cabinets are in, and before I’ve chosen my actual pendants.
Island is 66”, so I’m assuming two is best. Was thinking 9-12 inches as the best sizing? Is that about right?
Also, I’ll have a curved wood range hood...would I be better off bit having pendants so they don’t block the hood, which is the focal point? From the nook which is the main focal point, you’re looking straight dork the island and at the hood.
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101newkitchen101
3 years ago
PROadalisa frazzini
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Lighting for U-shaped Kitchen
Comments (1)The CR6 lights can be purchased at HomeDepot and the RT6 at Lowes. As for lighting the glass cabinet, you can use LED UCL lighting or the phantom lighting system. Take some time to consider the lighting needs and desires since a typical remodeling project will take a considerable amount of time and resources and the end results should work for you. Here is a link that might be useful: phantom lighting...See MoreU-shaped w/ small island or L w/ larger island? Help pls
Comments (26)OK - I may have gotten a little carried away...but here's a layout with what appear to be all your wants. I don't see a pantry, so I added cabinets behind the island as well as b/w the DR and TV room for extra storage. You actually have plenty of storage in this kitchen! The base cabinets on the top wall are 27"D (but could be as deep as 28.5"), the upper cabs on the top wall are 15"D. There are two excellent Prep Zones, although I would prefer to prep on the island facing everyone! (Prepping is 70% or more of the work/time in the kitchen; cleaning up is 20% or less.) The Cleanup Zone is out of the way of the Prep and Cooking Zones and there's no crossing through the Cleanup Zone to get to the Refrigerator or MW. With an undercounter MW like a MW drawer, you don't lose counterspace or have anything in the vertical space b/w the counters and cabinets. There's a nice stretch of counter to the left of the ovens,for a snack center or even a tea/coffee center (43" of counterspace). The ovens are in a 31.5" wide cabinet - the reasonable minimum needed for 30" wide ovens (which I assume the wall oven is at least - I don't know how wide your steam oven will be). There's a 42" wide counter-depth refrigerator - hopefully that will allay your DH's concern about a counter-depth model... In the DR, the table can be moved a bit to the left, especially if you don't put an outside door in the DR. Moving the table to the left will give you a few more inches b/w the shallow cabinets and the table. Note that the cabinets b/w the DR and TV Room are 6" taller than standard - that means the counter will be 42" high (bar-height). The cabinets + counters not only give you more storage space, but they also provide you with a separation b/w the DR and the TV Room as well as provide counter space in both places. The cabinets are 12" deep, but the counter is 15" deep. The TV Room has a sofa and chair - the chair can be moved to view the TV or stay where it is for conversation and visiting. (I even added end tables :-)) A note about the doors - I don't understand why you don't like the "line of sight" from the front door to the back door. The problem is, that middle section is the ideal spot for the back door - no obstructions, easy access to the kitchen, and out of the way of all work zones and seating areas. It keeps the traffic out of everyone's way - it's the perfect location! Put up some nice window/door dressings and you'll have a pleasant view for anyone entering your home from the front door. I wouldn't want the door to be in the kitchen (in the 8' span) b/c it would draw everyone through the kitchen to get to the backyard - the last thing you want in a kitchen! The island will help direct people around, but inevitably, some people will choose to go through the kitchen (b/w the island and perimeter) and get in your way - especially if someone is sitting at the island. If you absolutely must have the door there, then I suggest a sliding door with the opening as far away from the kitchen as possible - so that would mean the bottom of the 8' span. The rest can be windows. It's still going to be an issue, though... Here's the layout (select/click on a picture to see a bigger version): I labeled the cabinets and counters with suggestions for storage and usage - but you should tailor it to what would work for you... Here's a zone map:...See MoreNew u shaped kitchen with island from scratch
Comments (25)It would help to know a little bit more about you and your family - right now, people are designing with only a rough idea of what you want. E.g., do you want seating at the island? If so, you will need wider aisles on the seating side (unless the seats are on the open side). I will link to the "Layout Help" FAQ as well as the Kitchen Design FAQ threads at the end. The Layout Help FAQ will ask you a few questions to help us come up with a design that will fit your lifestyle, family, etc. Regarding aisles...some of the info up-thread is a bit misleading. Any/all work aisles should be a minimum of: 42" if it is a one-person work aisle (and always a one-person work aisle) - this means only one person prepping/cooking/prepping/cleaning up at one time in the same aisle - not someone prepping while someone else is cleaning up, cooking, etc. If each primary work zone is on a different aisle, then all aisles can be 42". 48" if more than one person will be working in the aisle at the same time - someone prepping while someone else is also prepping or cooking or cleaning up. Note that if you have seating on a primary work zone aisle, than add another 18" to the aisle IF the overhang is a minimum of 15" of clear leg/knee space. If the overhang is less then 15", add that 18" plus whatever your overhang is lacking (e.g., if you have a 12" overhang, then add yet another 3" to the aisle.) For a less-used work zone aisle with seating (e.g., Snack Center), add 12" (plus the missing overhang depth, if any). . Layout Help: How do I ask for Layout Help and what information should I include? http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2767033/how-do-i-ask-for-layout-help-and-what-information-should-i-include . Kitchen Design FAQ threads: Kitchen work zones, what are they? http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3638270/faq-kitchen-work-zones-what-are-they Aisle widths, walkways, seating overhangs, work and landing space, and others http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3638304/faq-aisle-widths-walkways-seating-overhangs-work-landing-space-etc How do I plan for storage? Types of Storage? What to Store Where? http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3638376/faq-how-do-i-plan-for-storage Ice. Water. Stone. Fire (Looking for layout help? Memorize this first) http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2699918/looking-for-layout-help-memorize-this-first...See MoreIsland or U-Shaped Kitchen
Comments (21)The rectangular island will definitely take up less room and give you a better aisle b/w the table and island. Regarding the heights discussed here: Table-height is 30" off the finished floor Counter-height is 36" off the finished floor Bar-height is 42" off the finished floor For seating comfort, table-height is the most comfortable and bar-height the least comfortable. For an island or peninsula, counter-height is a nice compromise b/w table- and bar-height. Functionally, a counter all one height is much more useful than one broken up by different heights. Seating recommendations: Table-height seating: Overhang - a minimum of 18" of clear leg/knee space Linear spacing - a minimum of 24" linear space per seat, with 30" much better Counter-height seating: Overhang - a minimum of 15" of clear leg/knee space Linear spacing - a minimum of 24" linear space per seat Bar-height seating: Overhang - a minimum of 12" of clear leg/knee space (15" is much better both for comfort and functionality. 12" isn't deep enough to much of anything on the raised counter) Linear spacing - a minimum of 24" linear space per seat . Aisles... Island/Refrigerator aisle...For the aisle b/w the island and range wall, it depends on what type of refrigerator you plan to have: standard-depth (~36" total depth) or counter-depth (~30" total depth). With a counter-depth refrigerator , I think 48" would be fine. It would give you approximately 42" b/w the refrigerator and island. However, if you have a standard-depth and it's not recessed into the wall behind it to make it look counter-depth, then you may want it wider. I would aim for at least 40" b/w the island and refrigerator handles. Island/Sink aisle...For the aisle b/w the sink wall and the island, I would have a minimum of 45", with 48" better. This allows you to have a DW door open and be able to maneuver around it to put dishes away or to let someone walk by while the DW door is open. BTW...aisles are measured to/from the items that stick out into the aisle the farthest - counters, appliance handles, walls, etc. They are not measured cabinet-to-cabinet. The 24-inch depth of base cabinets only includes the cabinet boxes, not the doors/drawer fronts and knobs/pulls. Counters overhang cabinet boxes by around 1.5" to cover the doors/drawer fronts and the knobs/pulls. So, at a minimum, you need to measure counter-to-counter. If there's an appliance in the aisle, then measure to/from the appliance handle and the counter on the other side of the aisle (or whatever is directly across from it.) . Table Spacing... We have 48" b/w our table and peninsula counter and it's not enough if you have people sitting in both places, which is possible if you have two seating areas so close together. I strongly advise a minimum of 54" b/w them, with 60" much better. Also, keep in mind that if that's a slider "above" the table, then you should have 48" b/w the slider and table to allow someone to use the slider while someone else is sitting at the table - unless you are not planning on having a seat on that end of the table. If that's the case, then 36" b/w the slider and table should be enough. (CPArtist already mentioned the 36" minimum b/w the table and the wall on the right.) You might consider a bench along the right wall for the table to give you wider aisles - a banquette-type bench with comfortable cushions and a padded back....See Moremegs1030
3 years agoHU-187528210
3 years agoHU-187528210
3 years ago101newkitchen101
3 years ago101newkitchen101
3 years ago101newkitchen101
3 years ago101newkitchen101
3 years ago101newkitchen101
3 years agoJust realized I’d still need to convert the middle can into a box for a pendant anyway. So either way, I need to decide what to do now. Kicking myself for not having a designer to help with these things!!!!! Any help in what to do is welcome!!!
101newkitchen101
3 years ago101newkitchen101
3 years ago101newkitchen101
3 years agoHU-187528210
3 years agoHU-187528210
3 years ago- PRO
adalisa frazzini
3 years ago 
Rachel
3 years ago- PRO
adalisa frazzini
3 years agoYou could do a pretty but not low hanging ceiling fixture above island and then hang a coordinating pendant above the sink.
101newkitchen101
3 years ago
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