Sorry, millworkman. live_wire_oak- It seems we have no code enforcement here. Inspectors cleared this house before we bought it. We found extension cords plugged in together that were wrapped with duct tape BEHIND sheetrock walls. We found we had to put most of our money on fixing the issues the inspector didn't catch. How can they catch them when the issues are inside the wall and ceilings? Yes, we have 4 picture windows in a bedroom and no operable windows, but we do have one door for egress to the patio. So we have put in 3 beams, rewired the house, 2 new heat & air units, rewired electrical in the pool, gutted the kitchen, sheetrocked walls and ceilings, 18 pine trees cut down before they fell on the house, new dock floats, rewired dock, new walkway to dock. So there is no money left for siding. I agree with you that it should be replaced, but the corp of engineers thought the dock was more important.... $12,000 for that. I just don't understand why no one follows codes around here. (220 on the dock???? Seriously?) Weedyacres, I agree with the wall of windows! We love the views, but we need to be able to open windows. I don't want to lose the view which is why I don't know what to do. Shorter windows with clear view, french doors, or tilt and turn doors. I think keeping the view with large doors would be best. I am trying to find Tilt and Turn doors locally so I don't spend $1000.00 on shipping from Canada. They would open for a breeze and still show the view, don't you think? Annz, I am still learning how to put pics on and all that other stuff. I tried the help section but couldn't figure out how to link. I have only lived with sliding windows once...in the 1970s...hated them. I always had to lift them up to slide them open or closed. I assume they are much better now though. Do yours slide really easily? Do they have better ways to keep people from just popping the door out? Do you remember what brand you bought? Do French doors only open so far, then stop? I just assumed they would open all the way to the wall. SouthernCanuck, There are no structural engineers here. We tried to get architects and structural engineers to come out a year ago, but no one would. We are in the middle of nowhere! Our contractor who put in the beams and tore the stairs out and replaced them (to code) said there was a beam going across the outside wall and there are 6" square posts in 3 places under the beams. (It was an outside porch.) That is where the picture windows are. So we have to keep the windows separate. All of you have given me a lot to think about...and sliders were not even on my radar. We just do not have good quality products here where I live. I will drive a couple of hours next weekend to look at sliders and see how they perform. Thank you to everyone! Peke

Good question...That space is actually not that big in real life. We'll likely put the 2 chairs with a table in between that we have in the sunroom now. We may end up with a moveable island in the "butler's pantry" -- agree, it's more of an extended kitchen space. But we can reuse the same cabinets so it will be low cost and extra storage since we'll have less in the main kitchen area. Moving the bathroom was deemed to be more than $10k, and creates a lot more complexity in the project. I am intrigued by that idea, but I think that will actually make the house feel smaller since that will create more of a closed off hallway from our utility room.

It looks like you have a single can light, and a skylight? is there any properly situated task lighting for the counters? Installing retrofit LED disc or wafer lights (I would choose 3000 - 3500k) into a ceiling is an easy job, unless there is ductwork in the way. I would want discs spaced about 48-50 inches apart center-center (depends on the brand/size of the lights you buy) with the light centered over the edge of the counter. I would want them along the edges of all of the work surfaces, unless you have good lighting that doesn't show in the photo - but definitely over the bar. I agree with your contractor - no waterfall. Do you mean raise the base cabs or the uppers? I am assuming the uppers. Why are you thinking of doing so - are they too low to the countertops, which is a good reason? Are your cabinets site built, which would make moving them tricky (especially the one around that duct)? Also consider that you will likely have to do some wall repair, even if you plan to tile over the newly-exposed wall. Will raising them put the top shelves out of reach? Tile choice - your cabinets are a busy wood, so just be careful to keep any pattern in the tile subdued and minimal.

I just heard someone talking about how stone veneers are coming back. Tough to believe. I would get a new firebox door front--get rid of the harsh brass but the rest is quite nice. The flooring in that room feels cold, hard and not in line with the beautiful wood maybe it's carpet--can't tell for sure but I would bring the kitchen flooring into that space vs the stark white. Where in the world is this? Your kitchen cabinets look pretty blah. The hardware-especially the hinges really need something prettier. I wonder what it would cost to get new door fronts on the uppers with the cathedral arch? The over all look could be much improved with little changes like these.