I switched to metal several years ago for basements. It's a nice clean quiet installation--tin snips, tapcons for the floor and power driver for the sheetmetal screws. It provides a better structure for drywall: straight with no shrinkage. It doesn't add moisture to the basement nor provide material for mould growth. The only rust I've found on old metal framing that I've ripped out is on the floor, where it can absorb moisture from the concrete. To avoid that, put in on an inch or more of extruded polystyrene before anchoring into the floor. As noted above, wiring is different and you have to put reinforcements in for doors, sometimes for cabinets. It costs more than wood, but an experienced installer can put it in very quickly. I know it looks flimsy, but when it's screwed in place and drywalled, you really don't see a difference.

''You can cut with minimal deformation using aircraft snips instead of tin snips." Good to know! Problem for ME is that i think I have also used such tools to cut heavy steel and they still did not bend the waste pieces back and away from the cutting line. I have cut corrugated steel barn siding with a variety of implements, including (but not necessarily limited too): snips, reciprocating saw and circular saw. Snips were useless after about four inches of cut, I reeeeally should have used ears plugs when using the reciprocating saw and it was difficult to control, but the circular saw did not do too badly as long as you stayed well clear of the flying steel chips. :o/ BUT, that is a lot heavier than what you are likely to use for your chalkboard. I digressed, but you should be good with a light-gauge steel and good aviation snips.

The door comes with standard butt hinges or Soss style concealed hinges, like shown above which is what I did. We painted the jamb area the same finish at the door, and the wall is flat finish...you do have to be careful about smudges but we don't touch the walls going through the doors so much. Smudging is the only regular downside I can think of. No cracking or anything in our case. (I do have some cracking around a more conventional kerfed wood jamb. And I suppose the specificity and relative permanence could be a down side. No just popping off trim to change or modify something.

Craft store usually has them in the 8x10 size. In our area of N TX, Hobby Lobby typically has them in stock with sale prices of $2-4.00 and usually not that much higher even when not on sale. These usually consist of a sized piece of glass, a thin backing board and four spring clips which hold the whole thing together after you stack the glass, picture and backing board. Each clip is made so that there is a hole at the upper edge that will easily slide over a small nail, straight pin or whatever you usually use to hang your pictures (we typically use a stout straight pin such as used when sewing fabrics).