I see your point, writersblock. My shower and toilet are in a separate room from the vanity, although there is visibility between the 2 areas when the pocket door is open. The vanity area would have the counter and ledge in Azul Macaubas and the plain gray field tile on the floor. I wanted to bring a little bit of blue accent into the shower so that that room is not just solid gray floor and walls. I need a small tile for the shower floor, and the Via Tornabuoni does not come in small sizes. I was thinking of doing the shower floor like this, with Via Tornabuoni field tiles making up the outside border and mosaic in the middle. [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/from-mid-century-to-contemporary-master-bathroom-midcentury-bathroom-seattle-phvw-vp~540585) [Contemporary Bathroom design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103) by Seattle Interior Designer ID by Gwen

Thank you so much everyone for your comments. I was leaning towards the first or second fixture because they have halogen lighting, and I read that halogen lighting is best for the bathroom. However, I've been hesitant because I'm not crazy about the style. Those are out. Now it's between the third and fourth fixtures. I'm going for a more contemporary look in the bathroom, so I prefer the style of the fourth fixture. Can polished brass be contemporary? The downside is that I would have to get it in polished brass to go with the rest of my bathroom, and I think the brass takes away from the contemporary look. Would chrome look okay? My shower door and tub fixtures are all polished brass, but the sink faucet and cabinet knobs are two toned brass and chrome. The sink and tub are about 8 inches apart. I like the third fixture because it is two-toned, but the look is a bit traditional. Athensmomof3 (love that name), my medicine cabinet is directly above the sink. I've been looking at make-up mirrors. It's too late to get one that's hardwired. I've seen a lighted mirror that plugs in, and you can remove the cord from the mirror when it's not in use. I might get that one.

I am having trouble getting the last option pic to upload. Here it is.

Egan-I would reduce island length by around 12”. I would eliminate pony walls on ends and use decorative cabinet end panels and reduce 18” cabinet on far end to 12” cabinet. Make sure your cabinets are designed with proper metal support plates for slab. 12-13” overlay for stools is tight. I would expand to 16”. Most slabs can accommodate that total width. 36” deep plus 4” more would mean slab has to be 40-44” wide and 108-112” long. That is doable for most slabs without seams.