Thanks mightyanvil, I tried to get your attention for possible consultation on a "column thread" in the forums shadow page. But that may be out of line. The flares framing adds 4-3/4 inches depth from the exterior sheathing at the doors threshold height. The shingles add another strong inch when installed not including any length for a drip edge. The wall cavity itself is 6-5/8 inches. I recessed one layer of gypsum between the studs on the inside as to not have a double layer (zone 1 code) adding depth affecting trim elements at finish stage. We had intended on using a 4-9/16 door jamb/frame (flush to the inside finish) as to have the depth for shingled returns right up-to the jambs door stop. This gives some room for shingle width above the flares width which tapers-in near 40" up. At this point, I was going to make the exterior landings on grade beams. This was based on the fact I did not want anything attatched to or tight to the flare, that would promote moisture problems. That would make the thresholds one step up from the landings or near 7 inches. I have really struggled with this detail. The doorways are quite protected from continued weather. The front that faces West is recessed under a 8ft. overhang. The rear entry is facing East and has a 2 ft. overhang. The slider on the SW side is most vulnerable as it will get blown rain under the eve overhang frequently during the winter months. That particlular threshold will be external mounted below the doors threshold/framing, directly to the sheathed 2x rim joist and rest on short vertical flared framing at 12 inch centers. I'm still figuring how best to deal with the "sliders" threshold at the corners where they abut the flares return. The entire flare is proud of the foundation by near an inch and had a kerf cut into the concrete which a galvanized mesh was expoxied into and then bent up/over the flares lower framing. This was to provide integrated venting for the crawls rim-joist vents I did not want them protruding through the flare. By default, the entire flare is vented. The flares framing is vertical with 1x3 skip sheathing. The final taper at the flares top is comprised of coroplast strips installed horizontally which provides both moisture drainage (if ever needed) and continued venting to where the flare is terminated at near 40 inches up the wall. The homes SW side will get wet this high often during the winter months. The mahogany flares are intended to be built-up using available 2x8 pieces. They would be splined and built with a downward step milled into them where they would fit over the subfloor as they extend to the exterior flare. That should allow enough material thickness kept into the flares to support them being used a step and also the material depth for a nice downward radius. They will rest on framing as previously described as well. The munincipality allows the doors stc code to be met by the installation of a sealed storm door. This is what everyone does. In my case, I do not have the jamb/trim for the mounting of such of door being the returns are being shingled. The municipality is well versed in what a rated assembly looks like, unfortunatley. Though if I had the proper stickers I certainly would be tempted... Thanks mighty...I tried to lay out my intentions for everyones critiquing. What a ride!

Casey, that's a good idea! I'm going to experiment with that while I'm looking for pictures to post. Cameron, I love the style of your house and gardens! We have some similar tastes I think. I've been emotionally hooked into Italy since I studied there in the 70s. The funny thing is that the Tuscan farmhouses that people die for now, and that cost millions even in dilapidated condition, were sold for nothing back then. People couldn't wait to get out of them to move into apartments in town! If only I'd had vision back then, instead of a head full of dreams....

Mary-- Thanks for the input. I don't understand what hopper windows are. Can you explain? I just rode my bike around our neighborhood trying to look for examples of double egress windows in the front and actually found one in a house that has a brick window box in the front just like ours. So, the situation was very similar. It didn't look too terrible. I agree that it isn't the window as much as the big hole in the ground that bothers me the most. The contractor has suggested a tiered planter look, and that has definitely been eliminated because those do look way too contemporary to fit in with our house. The other thing I noticed is that with a brick façade on the lower portion of our house the windows that look the best are the ones that are painted a color that blends right in with the brick rather than trying to coordinate with the regular trim color on the house.

Sena, can you tell me where you found the first pic, with the extension? I'd like to see the finished cabinet and counter--I love small space solutions like that! Although the extension would provide a better landing space for the fridge, I wouldn't want my main prep space in front of the door to the butler's pantry. This plan keeps the range on the exterior wall, and the sink and windows as drawn, but moves the fridge to put it in a more direct path from the range. There are two choices for the UC fridge--if it holds only cooking ingredients, on the sink wall, but if it will also hold drinks or snacks, then it can go on the island, opening toward the range. The work aisle could be made wider, and the prep sink added to the island, for a secondary prep space for multiple cooks.