I am finding that many of the stc33 rated doors available in my 3'0-6'10" R.O. are steel.

I am a little lost, could someone explain an STC rating?

Rusty

STC is Sound Transmission Class. It measures the ability of a wall or door assembly to reduce the transmission of sound.

I consider it pretty silly to worry about what a door is made of since the likelihood of the perimeter seals achieving the advertised rating in the field are small. Doors simply leak sound.

On a Shingle Style house I would not be surprised to see a painted door.

Since the stc is a local code issue, you might ask for a variance if wood is what you want. I could understand it if it was a safety issue here, but to drum up a code concening entry doors/ sound transmission is assnine, imo.

How close are your neighbors? Is the local gov afraid you will be too loud?

Rusty

To elaborate...My build is one block inside of a airports zone 1 designated corridor. That mandates 1" thick roofing underlayment, 1" wall sheathing, double 5/8" sheetrock inside and stc 38 windows. It also has specific builds and materials for all ducts exiting the structure and attic insulation. This munincipality is mostly avoided by anyone intersted in new construction or major remodels as it triggers all current codes. It has been quite the journey as a nieve retired machinist doing most of it singlehanded.

sierraeast...No variances period on the zone 1 requirements. Most believe the local airport pulled some political strings after many years of retrofits and buyouts and lobbied for the munincipal requirements now required by property owners. Perfect timing as the airport recently added another runway.

mightyanvil...The stc rated doors I have found are complete integrated door/frame/threshold assemblies because of the reasons you have mentioned. I was just hoping to find something that still looked like it belonged on a custom home. I am having a cabinet maker build honduran mahogany thresholds to span through the flair which is carried completely around the build. These will be near 12 inches deep. We will retrofit them to whatever door assy I end up using and simply integrate the thresholds seal/saddle into them. One thing I am still unsure of, is how to terminate these thresholds where they interface with the shingled flair. Originally I was going to have the thresholds "horns" fitted to the flares framing and shingle around them. After more scrutiny though, I am wondering if the shingles should be installed uninterupted for a good weatherproof seal and simply have the thresholds "horns" wrap over the installed shingles with a slight "air-gap". Of course the thresholds could protrude straight through the entryways opening with no horns but considering the cost and effort so-far I would hate to leave a feasable detail off. We are envisioning the mohagany thresholds kept substantial in thickness with a slight faceted radius and bullnose edge.

Thoughts anyone, the thresholds horns sizing? how about appropiate door handle/locksets?

I am very unsure of the wisdom of deep thresholds. You need to get water off of a threshold before it gets blown back into the door. It also seems like a serious trip hazard since people will not know whether to step on the threshold or beyond it. What is the surface immediately outside of the door? Is it lower than the threshold? I would mock up one to be sure you will be happy with it.

I recently saw a public building with shingle flare returns at the doors and they were holding up well. I will send the photos Sunday when I get back to my office. They used regular sills. I will get some photos of my brother-in-law's house where the returns stopped before the doors (not my choice).

I would install the acoustic door and replace it with what I wanted later. They can't send you to a war zone can they? I can't believe anyone would presume to tell you what kind of front door you could have. The STC rating requirement is ridiculous. Is it for your comfort or your neighbors? What kind of parties do they throw in your neighborhood? Next they will limit the size and location of your windows.

I have designed a high-rise condominium building with extreme acoustic separation requirements, a recording studio, and a power plant in a hospital complex with the advice of some of the best acoustic engineers in the country. I can tell you the material you make your door from will have no effect on anyone's comfort. Get a wood door, paint it, and put a acoustic fiberglass door manufacturer's label on the hinge edge.

Thanks mightyanvil, I tried to get your attention for possible consultation on a "column thread" in the forums shadow page. But that may be out of line.

The flares framing adds 4-3/4 inches depth from the exterior sheathing at the doors threshold height. The shingles add another strong inch when installed not including any length for a drip edge. The wall cavity itself is 6-5/8 inches. I recessed one layer of gypsum between the studs on the inside as to not have a double layer (zone 1 code) adding depth affecting trim elements at finish stage.

We had intended on using a 4-9/16 door jamb/frame (flush to the inside finish) as to have the depth for shingled returns right up-to the jambs door stop. This gives some room for shingle width above the flares width which tapers-in near 40" up.

At this point, I was going to make the exterior landings on grade beams. This was based on the fact I did not want anything attatched to or tight to the flare, that would promote moisture problems. That would make the thresholds one step up from the landings or near 7 inches. I have really struggled with this detail.

The doorways are quite protected from continued weather. The front that faces West is recessed under a 8ft. overhang. The rear entry is facing East and has a 2 ft. overhang. The slider on the SW side is most vulnerable as it will get blown rain under the eve overhang frequently during the winter months. That particlular threshold will be external mounted below the doors threshold/framing, directly to the sheathed 2x rim joist and rest on short vertical flared framing at 12 inch centers. I'm still figuring how best to deal with the "sliders" threshold at the corners where they abut the flares return.

The entire flare is proud of the foundation by near an inch and had a kerf cut into the concrete which a galvanized mesh was expoxied into and then bent up/over the flares lower framing. This was to provide integrated venting for the crawls rim-joist vents I did not want them protruding through the flare. By default, the entire flare is vented. The flares framing is vertical with 1x3 skip sheathing. The final taper at the flares top is comprised of coroplast strips installed horizontally which provides both moisture drainage (if ever needed) and continued venting to where the flare is terminated at near 40 inches up the wall. The homes SW side will get wet this high often during the winter months.

The mahogany flares are intended to be built-up using available 2x8 pieces. They would be splined and built with a downward step milled into them where they would fit over the subfloor as they extend to the exterior flare. That should allow enough material thickness kept into the flares to support them being used a step and also the material depth for a nice downward radius. They will rest on framing as previously described as well.

The munincipality allows the doors stc code to be met by the installation of a sealed storm door. This is what everyone does. In my case, I do not have the jamb/trim for the mounting of such of door being the returns are being shingled. The municipality is well versed in what a rated assembly looks like, unfortunatley. Though if I had the proper stickers I certainly would be tempted...

Thanks mighty...I tried to lay out my intentions for everyones critiquing. What a ride!

Second paragraph from the end... I mentioned "mahogany flares" twice while intending to say "mahogany thresholds". I have been having flare-itus for a while now:)

No advise here but your project sounds awesome. Could you possibly post some pics?

I live in Southern Maine where shingled homes are very common. Ours is white cedar with a light gray oil/stain (leaving it along it would turn black, we are 3 miles to the ocean). Our front door is a Therma-tru painted Kennebunkport Green. I am going to repaint it black and then eventually add some black shutters. If you don't go with painted then I would go with a teak or mahogany look (not sure how that would look with your red cedar, though). Definitely not oak, fir, etc.

sierraeast, Way back you had elaborated on your experience with some flare builds. I basically mimicked what you had perscribed for a build method including the integrated crawl venting. A gentlemen sent me some old drawings showing calculations used on some flares. I morphed the scale of one of those designs to fit my build. I am averaging a half square a day on my own. It is green old growth WRC which is the only way I see being able to conform the shingles into the "kick" of the flare with-out maybe steaming them or such. I will post some photos shortly.

sue36, Sounds like a very nice build!

Hi Mlo1, I remember the post. I had seen some flares on cape cod when i lived back east for a short time. They used white cedar shingles for the walls, but there were also homes that used red cedar as well. In them days i really didn't pay much attention to technical details such as venting and never shingled a flared wall. We installed many squares of white cedar on walls and red cedar on roofs in them days mostly on new builds, occasionally on remodels, one being an old inn late 1600's where they used wood washed ashore from shipwrecks! Your project is of interest as it sounds as though you are taking every task as a custom and thought out adventure rather than the standard "run of the mill" approach. Best of continued luck and pics are always appreciated!