I've seen the Premier in person and seams to be comperable to the Frigidaire line in fit and finnish. For my money a Delonghi 36" single oven pro style range with 5 sealed burners is far and away a better look and fit and finnish. It has 1 16k center burner 2-12k burners and 2 6k burners with a convection oven and infrared broiler. Should be selling righ around 3k or about 25 - 40% less than most other pro style ranges.

Oh Man, this input rocks ; -) I can't tell you all how much I appreciate it!! We are sitting right now brainstorming on this knotty subject. It's good to hear that the bridge burner is making you all somewhat happy. I am seeing that the 8000 btu is an issue and I can see why. When I sear on my griddle/grill I crank up the two burners and even if it is a bit uneven on the heat distribution I am burning around 19,000 btu (two 9,500) so yeah 8000. That is something to think about. I mentioned I have been in this kitchen for a long time, I didn't mention the heavy use it gets. We have 4 full time adult residents, and most weeks we have at least one more person for 1 or 2 nights. When college is on break extra children and their room mates put us to 6 or 7. Over holidays the count climbs right up to 12. It isn't unusual for us to seat 16 for a holiday meal and I have done buffets for up to 30. For all that it is small it is pretty functional. That long run of counter allows me and my favorite sous' (the Spouse ; -) to really rock and roll in there. We call it the kitchenette two step. I run the DW almost everyday. That stays. I don't see the trade off for a 24" range giving me much advantage. The 6" cabinet gain would not be worth it, for me at least. We are looking hard at the undercounter wall oven and the countertop stove, but wall ovens have some issues; size mostly. You pay alot for SQ footage in those things, for what you get!! The spouse is looking at the Wolf M and saying it would fit. I know about the chipping issues. ARRRGH, The input about the replacement griddles is great to have. I had wondered about the lightweight alum with the non stick... Not surprised to hear it gives up pretty fast. The only non stick I really use is egg and omelet pans. If I could find cast iron with nice slopey sides for sliding omelets out I would prolly ditch all the non stick. Anyone have a bridge burner with enough BTUs to make them really happy? I have read about replacing burners, is that an option for the bridge (I would guess not, but you never know) How about countertop stoves with the 5th burner? anyone have a model they like? Again, can't tell you how much I appreciate all this!!

Of course it is "possible." Just like Dr. Frankenstein worked at home. Whose project, echoing the question by gigleus, had some major reliability and safety concerns, to say the least. Maybe, more like the kind of "home brewed" projects such as, say, turning a 20 year-old pickup into an all electric vehicle or into a dragster with a twin supercharger "454" motor and huge racing slicks, or turning it into a four-wheel-drive, high lift monster truck. Can be done, but would you want that for your daily ride? Hvtech has an interesting suggestion for owners of old Jenn Air "modular" cooktops and stoves. However, while Jenn Air made numbers of smoothtop radiant electric cartridges/ modules, I cannot recall ever seeing an induction cartridge. The burner control systems were just too different, which is a big reason why nobody makes (or will make) plug-and-play induction modules that can fit into the top of a coil-burner stove or into the supports beneath an old smoothtop. The older style electric stoves used electro-mechanical potentiometer/rheostat burner controls. Making those work with the digital microprocessor controls used by induction burners is pretty complicated. (AFAIK, only Miele and Garland/Mantowiac induction burners have potentiometer controls; their products cost $$$$) This is what Homepro meant with the comment about different control technology. For a Frankenstove, you would need to rip out the old control systems and wiring, assemble a set of the microprocessor-driven control-boards required to operate the induction burners, and then figure out how to reprogram them and convert them to work with a rotary knob interface. You also would need to build a fan system to keep the induction electronics cool, which is something nobody did with electric stoves 25 years ago. You'd also need to build in enough space for clearance from the oven part, too. All of that would be for naught if your old stove has the oven vent in one of the rear burners as numbers of electric coil stoves did, back then. The closest thing to "plug-and-play" induction burners are the commercial "drop-in" induction burners from the likes of Cooktek. In theory, you could carve up or build a new stove-top to hold four of them, rewire the range, and cut holes in the backsplash to mount their control modules. That would cost you around $4k to $5k in parts, which is a whole lot more than just buying a new induction range outright. For that kind of money you might as well be looking at the ultra-premium priced induction ranges from the likes of Dacor, Viking and Miele. And a Cooktek style solution would still require you figure out how to get enough clearance below the burners for their cooling to operate while you are using your old stove's oven. So, no plug and play solution here. As homepro noted, some folks have pulled out old non-functioning coil burners and placed a couple of portable induction cookers (PIC) over the holes, That will raise the level of your cooking surface by two or three inches which may or may not be a problem. The size of the PIC casings is large enough that it will be next to impossible to fit more that two PICs on top of the old stove. Depending on how many burners you use at a time, that may or may not be a problem, as well. There are some limitations to working with the less expensive PICs (which would be most of them). In an older kitchen, there might be some problems finding enough separate 120v electrical circuits (PICs can draw so much current that you will blow a circuit breaker by running two on the same circuit at the same time -- same thing with a microwave, btw). One nice thing, though, is that many electric stoves from 25-years ago had an extra-120v outlet on the backsplash and, running through the stove's connections, that outlet will be on a circuit separate from other kitchen outlets. If that kind of solution interests you, you could check out the discussions in the cookware section at chowhound.com where numbers of folks like paulj and have reported putting PICs on old stoves and several others have decided to dispense with stoves altogether. Also, look over the blogs on induction at www.centurylife.org. For a discussion here on using PICS, you might check out this thread if you have not already seen it: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2324992/portable-induction-cooktop-and-cookware

That model was discontinued about 4 years ago but maybe Wolf could give you an idea about the age if you called them. The burner tray disassembles for cleaning but it is a capped burner. I don't know if it is worthwhile or not. I would get an overlay griddle too. They do come in different sizes and metals. Cast Iron and steel do not conduct heat as well so tend to have zones of heat. You can season them though so they are nonstick. They also are heavy. Many on thus forum like Chef King and they make one that is sized to fit a pro style range. The other choice would be a thick aluminum griddle. They heat more evenly. They come nonstick coated or bare and the bare will season over time but take longer than CI or steel. Some people like the zones of heat with steel/ CI because they can cook where it is really hot and keep warm on cooler parts. Royal Industries makes a nice aluminum griddle coated or bare and in different sizes.