The plywood sides you added are going to be in the way of a European hinge working. If you shop online for concealed hinges, every product is going to have a diagram showing the relationship of the door to the cabinet box or faceframe. Not ever one is capable of envisioning the relationships in their head. Using the original hinge is going to save a lot of time and trial & error until you figure it out (or realize it's impossible to do). Might help to see the door, see the edge detail, see how it fits the opening. Casey

I have a Simple Human mirror for detailing. I have the small rechargeable one that folds for travel. I leave it on my counter and hold it up to my face when I put on mascara. I don't have a sit down vanity. I am not an extensive makeup user, and this works for me. The lighting is good. I have never tried to accommodate different lighting for my makeup. That's too much to ask of me, lol.

Bronze hardware is a neutralized and darkened orange. Orange and gray are not the most harmonious of colors. I'd go with satin chrome or nickel if you can afford it. Good luck on your project.

The distance between the vanity and the wall is ( 77.5" - 73" ) / 2 = 2.25" The centerline of a sink is ( 17.5" / 2 ) + 7" + 2.25" = 18" from the wall. If you center a 24" mirror over the sink you will have 18" - ( 24" / 2 ) + 2.25" = 8.25" between the mirror and the wall. If centered, you'd have a sconce 8.25" / 2 = 4.125" from the outside edge of the mirror. You will have 77.5" - ( 8.25" x 2 ) - ( 24" x 2 ) = 13" between the mirrors. If centered between the mirrors, you'd have a sconce 13" / 2 = 6.5" from the inside edge of a mirror. "I would like to use a recessed mirrored medicine cabinet on top of each sink, with sconces on each outside side of the mirror and one in the center, between the two mirrors." That won't work. Put a light over each mirror. (Check calculations.)