Which is done first? Baseboards or staining the floor or

3 years ago

We expanded our living room and trying to match the floor to the existing top nail flooring with the same stain. When we removed the old baseboards we noticed the floor was already stained. However in the new area, our GC and the floor guy are saying the baseboards should get put in first after the floor is installed, then staining after interior painting is all done. But this means the floor underneath the baseboards will be unfinished. To us, this doesn't make sense that there is partial unfinished floor. Is this normal practice?

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worthy

3 years ago

last modified: 3 years ago

this doesn't make sense that there is partial unfinished floor

that no one sees

Of course, I had a buyer who complained on final inspection that the underside of her laminated kitchen island counter was unfinished. Her toddlers, she explained, could look up and be horrified by the sight of bare naked particle board.

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PRO
G & S Floor Service
3 years ago
NWFA recommends completing all wet work, before finishing floors. So painting is done first.
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Flooring is not my trade, but I did the floors in my house. Typical appears to be baseboards first, raised about the height of the finished floor, then shoe mold to cover the gap between flooring and the baseboard. I did the flooring and then installed the baseboards. That was for the tile and hardwood. We knew that if we wanted shoe mold, it could be easily added later. For the limited area of vinyl, the baseboards were first and then the shoe mold. We like the whole plan and have made no changes. I sprinkled the roachpruf in the perimeter gap just before installing the baseboards and shoe mold.
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I have been in the engineering and construction arena since 1964 and the best option depends on the type of baseboard. But generally the baseboard goes in place first and then 2nd the floor whether ceramic or vinyl tile, hardwood or laminate and the shoe mold 3rd (most times no shoe molding when installing carpet). The shoe mold will cover any expansion gaps against the baseboard. Look at it this way flooring and underlayment comes in various thicknesses and if you ever need or want to change the flooring (thinner or thicker than the existing flooring) most likely if the baseboard is installed on top of the original floor it will need to be removed to fit the new flooring style. AND if the new flooring is thinner it may require not only removal of the baseboard (to lower it) and repair the wall and paint (or wallpaper) the difference. In other words why limit your options, baseboard first. Just removing and reinstalling or replacing the shoe mold to install a new floor is much, much more easier and less expensive. Besides you want low resistance on the floor for expansion and contraction and placing the baseboard on top of the flooring adds resistance (shoe mold is nailed to the baseboard not through the flooring). NOTE: This recommendation is for dry locations like bedrooms, dining rooms, living rooms, family rooms. Wet locations like bathrooms, laundry/wash rooms, mud rooms, kitchens etc. is a different application.
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sprink1es
3 years ago
^ and that's when you open a beer and go "gosh I never thought of it that way before, tell me more"
Timothy Winzell
3 years ago
Having the very edge of the floor unfinished where the baseboard sits is of no consequence. As far as the order of things, we often edge sand a floor with the first grit and scrape the corners to facilitate trim installation. Some contractors prefer to leave the trim off until after we finish. It's personal preference, likely formed after experience. If it's base on floor with no shoemold, I like the base to be installed after the floor finish but some would rather install all the trim at the same time for efficiency.
SJ McCarthy
3 years ago
If timing is no object (it gets done when it gets done) and money is of no consequence (painters will charge for another visit) then the ideal way is:

1. Remove all baseboards

2. Wet work (drywall, ceilings, paint)

3. Install wood, sand, stain, finish

4. Allow several days for floor to cure

5. Reinstall baseboards

That's the ideal order of work. How often does that get done? Rarely. That's why the world invented shoe/quarter round moldings and touch up paint.
Jenn A
2 years ago
Hi! I am getting my floor sanded and stained this Thursday and is it okay that there are no baseboards on the floor? Just making sure that this is OK, we are planning to buy baseboard molding after we move into the space. Is it okay to sand and stain with gaps around the entire perimeter due to lack of baseboard molding? Thanks!
SJ McCarthy
2 years ago
@Jenn A The PERFECT TIME to sand/stain is when the baseboards are OFF! This allows the machines to get as close to the edge of the floor as physically possible. Refinishers LOVE it when there are no baseboards.

You have *accidently done the perfect thing! You can relax and let the work happen knowing you are PERFECTLY on track.
Jenn A
2 years ago
thanks so much!!
Jenn A
2 years ago
Hi SJ! My installer did 2 coats of Nordic Seal today. 1 coat in the morning and 1 coat in the afternoon. They're supposed to start the finish tomorrow morning and it is Bona MEGA clear. Do you think there is any major issue with this?
SJ McCarthy
2 years ago
Nope. No issues. The NordicSeal is not a stain it is a sealant that can be used with multiple coats. The Bona Mega ONE (which is the one without the ambering...it does NOT discolour) is a nice product for homes with low-foot traffic = 2 people and a very lazy cat.

If you need tougher than tough (ie. you have 5 kids, 3 dogs, a house goat and 2 parents in wheelchairs) you need the more expensive Bona Traffic HD.
Jenn A
2 years ago
Thanks so much for your help! We are 2 parents and 2 young boys (3 & 5 YO) and a nanny and we do not wear shoes in the house. We will have area rugs in most rooms except kitchen & dining room. We plan on living in this home for the next 15-20 years and do not plan on doing the floors again in this time (unless we have to?) Do you think we should be OK with the Bona Mega ONE or should I put a coat of Traffic HD on top.
SJ McCarthy
2 years ago
It is your decision. The upgrade to Traffic HD *should be $1 - $2 per square foot. Only you can make that decision. You can pay for it now (out of your pocket) or you can pay for it at year 15 when you need to do either 1. Buff and coat (the rough up the surface to add 1 coat = $3/sf),

or 2. You do a full sand/refinish = $5 - $7/sf.

You can get 20-25 years out of a good finish with 3 (THREE) coats of finish. Or you can get 15-20 years out of a good finish with 2 coats (two).

It is CHEAPEST to do the #3 coat RIGHT NOW. It is a minor upcharge and it gets you 20+ years of very handsome floors.

Whatever finish you choose to do, make sure you go with 3 coats. If you have to pay extra for the 3rd coat, then go ahead and pay for the Traffic HD.

What was the UPCHARGE for the Traffic HD option??

Which is done first? Baseboards or staining the floor or

worthy

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G & S Floor Service

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