cpartist - I think it looks good overall. Some of the rugs looks a little wimpy etc. but doubt that will keep you from selling, same as some of the accessories being too many in some spots. Overall impression is very positive to me. Most of that stuff is just nit picks for lack of other things to pick on I think. If you do decide to balance the artwork you might want to look at command hooks. No need to make any holes. I think with wider angle pictures that shows the rooms it will be just fine. Only thing I would do is leave just the larger accessories and remove any groupings of smaller things - less to pack later anyways and it looks less busy in those spots, for those that like less "fuss".

Thanks for all of the comments so far - much appreciated! It's a one bedroom apartment since the wall to the 2nd bedroom was partially carved out by a former owner to expand the living area - so will be for a young professional/ couple (which is what I currently have despite the furnishings currently skewing university student). Unfortunately I'm competing with shiny new builds that have an industrial look and extras (like swimming pools and indoor parking) while my unit was constructed in 1900 and previous owners have stripped out all original character. The newer builds also offer appliances, which oddly enough is not the norm in the regular rental market in this city (tenants normally need to supply their own fridge/stove/etc.). In addition to the fridge and stove, there is also a washer and dryer in a laundry room that I did not show. Window treatments are also usually not provided unless they are cheap plastic Venetian blinds. Security deposits are not allowed - so most apartments are offered as-is and most landlords put in minimal effort. Personally I find this apartment so ugly, and I'm used to rental markets that provided bright white and clean apartments, that it pains me to offer it as-is without some refresh. My style definitely skews modern/industrial and my unit is now all white/ black/ grey/ exposed brick - so all of that wood in the kitchen seems awful to me. I refinished my cabinets with INSL-X Stix primer and Benjamin Moore Advanced paint when I bought the place and they are still look good 3+ years later...but understand perhaps that's not the best for a rental unit. Peel & stick flooring tiles are definitely not my top choice, but as I was researching laying vinyl sheeting, it seemed like it might be a difficult task to take on by myself. Seems like the consensus is that I should paint all rooms and install a dishwasher.

Beth H. That's what I've been looking into - just came back from a supplier. My initial issue with granite was the noise (that wouldn't work with the space and paint etc) but I've found better options that are grade 3,4,5 etc. The grade 1-3's I've seen aren't worth the much lower price for this space. Right now I like Alaskan White Granite, pre fab, but that comes out to $4k. I can get level 1-2's for $2,000 installed, but it isn't worth it. I'm only looking at buying by the sq ft, which is generally pre fab, rather than buying 2 stones with waste (I have 75 sq ft of countertop w/ Island).

Sorry I was not online over the weekend. Also sorry that you are getting overwhelmed - picking light neutrals is not easy. It is difficult to see the colors that are lurking below the surface and lighting changes the way light colors and whites work. They reflect the colors that are in the light that is hitting them and not just the colors that are present. (This is true of dark and saturated colors, but they are strong enough that you don't notice the changes all that much.) I created this to demonstrate how light impacts white. It may help you. I love working with and playing with paint colors. Have been painting since I was a kid and got obsessed with interior paint colors about 15-20 years ago. Knowing what color is going to look like on your walls is about experience, no one can see the colors from some small swatch painted on the wall and they see less looking at a little 1" square in a fan deck. I usually test large areas (3'x4') before I commit to a neutral. I use 140 lb watercolor paper to make test swatches for my preliminary selection. I always use a neutral white background - mine is a 1/2 sheet of drywall that I have painted with BM Chantilly Lace - a bright, neutral white. Link to water color paper: https://www.amazon.com/Canson-Watercolor-Textured-Charcoal-100510941/dp/B004M59O4C/ref=pd_lpo_229_img_1/144-8896929-4489445?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004M59O4C&pd_rd_r=170725f0-225e-4263-a7aa-5774151be230&pd_rd_w=LoNJF&pd_rd_wg=8BTf1&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=7YV26ZES8D731QS8NDQA&psc=1&refRID=7YV26ZES8D731QS8NDQA To help you visualize Pale Oak I can offer a comparison to a color I used in my last home. It was also a taupe, quite a bit darker, more colorful and more red than Pale Oak and the pictures I have are of a north facing room. FYI - the image below has 3 listed values Light - 0= Black 100= White - Chroma measures how colorful vs gray a color is 0 is gray. Hue defines the color on the color wheel by degree: 18 = Red 52 = Orange 90 = Yellow 162 = Green 234 = Blue 306 = Purple The color on my walls was mid toned, but not dark. Pale Oak is pretty light.