Do Ponderosa Pine need winter dormancy?
Bryan Burke
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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3 years agoBryan Burke
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Lots of ponderosa pine, to move or just down cut down
Comments (6)you can NOT drive large machines for building houses.. over the root zone of large trees .. they will eventually die from soil compaction ... but in tree years.. that might be 5 or 10 years down the line. .. so there is little use in saving older ones .. too near to the construction ... so unless someone can define the driving area.. and your contractor will abide by such.. you will be severely limited as to what is useful to save ... i live in MI.. plain old green pines.. not the foo foo ones.. grow 3 to 5 feet per year ... when you start with a 2 -3 year old bare root ... and give them a year or two to get 'established' [and that includes PROPER AFTERCARE] .... and will easily outgrow.. a 5 to 8 foot transplant.. in the first 5 years.. its all about transplant shock ... frankly.. there are NO SLOW PINES ... if i were you.. i would mark out the building area.. and the access driveway ... mark that out.. remove everything nearby.. and one of the tree pro's will have to delineate that distance for you [they can confirm scot above] .. and stake and police tape it all off.. it will look rather comical during construction ... and then perhaps.. expect to lose a few more ... and it is actually good.. because you dont really want dying trees falling on your new house.. and that would be the beauty of planting new.. nearer to the house ... the death rate of moving 20 footers would be extreme.. even if you paid the best of the biz to move them.. its not a DIY type thing IMHO .... and i bet it would cost tens of thousands of dollars ... in theory.. anything can be done.. its just budget and las vegas odds ... or extreme heavy labor [like that one guy at the link .. if you use the search in GW.. you might find his other posts by searching his GW name] .... which is not my game.. but maybe its yours ... now.. if you were doing a log cabin.. and were going to do it with a horse to drag in logs.. with no basement.. maybe we can save more ... but you didnt give us any facts in that regard.. so we are left to ponder large machines.. etc... so.. ID and remove what must be done to ease construction .... and when you get to landscaping.. get back to us.. and list options on stock.. and probably providers ... good luck ken Here is a link that might be useful: link...See MoreDoes Osmanthus Fragnans Four Seasons needs winter dormancy
Comments (5)I think "dormancy" is the wrong word -- unlike deciduous trees that shed their leaves and stop growing during the winter, osmanthus stays green and can put out new growth if it gets good light. However, growth does slow down, and like you said, it needs cool, humid conditions to stay healthy indoors in winter. Here are some tips: 1. Give it at least some direct sun during the day, and/or supplement natural light with a compact fluorescent or other grow light (but don't put a light so close to the plant that it gets too hot and burns the leaves!) 2. Keep it evenly moist -- don't ever let it dry out, but never leave the plant sitting in water or you risk rotting the roots. 3. Give it moving air! This is the "secret weapon" for indoor growers -- a lot of problems like spider mites, weak, yellowing leaves and general decline can be reduced, if you've got a fan going that keeps the air moving around the plant. 4. Thoroughly wetting the foliage with a sprayer a couple of times a week won't raise humidity for more than 30 minutes, but it does keep the leaves clean and dust free, and helps combat pests. 5. If you can move the plant to a cool spot near a window or door at night, do it, so long as the plant is not soaking wet -- cold and wet roots are a bad thing. Hope this helps! Jim...See MoreAargh! Osmanthus fragrans needs winter dormancy??
Comments (6)Not sure who suggested what for an osmanthus, but "winter dormancy" would be an odd requirement for a plant whose blooming season is fall and winter! What I think was meant that o. fragrans blooms best in cool, humid conditions; it can take night temps into the high 30s, and needs good air movement to avoid buds blasting and scale and other pests infesting the leaves. Don't let the soil get soggy, particularly if the night temps are low, but don't let it get too dry between waterings or you'll lose flowers. Evenly moist is what I try to achieve. It's a fixture in most northern public gardens with greenhouses or conservatories, you'll always see it in a sunny location, often near the glass or a vent so it gets that cool, moving air. Moving right along to the stephanotis, it also appreciates a cooler period in the winter, but not lower than the 50s. It also wants to be dry, once a week is plenty. It grows in Madagascar in a climate with a dry season, and flowers are triggered by a colder, dry period followed by warmer temps and rain. I think a good general rule with indoor plants is to assume "winter dormancy" means cooler and drier conditions for 2-3 months during the winter when light levels are lower, rather than the almost total cessation of growth that deciduous trees and shrubs go through, which requires constant low temperatures -- that's why most temperate deciduous trees can't be grown indoors as bonsai, it's too warm to establish dormancy! Sorry for the long post, hope it helps! Jim...See MoreQuestion concerning growing Ponderosa pines from seed
Comments (9)pine self sow on my glacial sand.. with no water AT ALL ... other than what ma nature provides ... and august in MI can easily be 90 to 100 degrees ... your high peat mix.. and constant watering... MIGHT become a problem.. i would suggest.. that you let it nearly dry in between waterings ... [on rereading.. i see you do] and when it grows roots out the bottom of this pot ... and you are thinking of potting up .. you use a better media ... higher draining ... and less retaining ... the idea is in the top.. out the bottom ... he has answered your question twice ... its environmantal ... when comparing an indoor plant to an outdoor plant ... plus location .... there after ... i dont know what you expect.. to be concerning yourself with a strong trunk ... a first year pine seedling.. is going to be not much more than what you have now ... dont try to love it to death.. by trying to make it do things that are not within its genetic code.. hyper fert'g will not accomplish much ... and i dont know why you are growing a ponderosa.. if you dont want long needles.. again.. its genetic ... you will be hard pressed to manipulate such ... good luck ... all experiments are worthy ... and questions help you learn.. so two thumbs up ... ken...See MoreUser
3 years agoBryan Burke
3 years agoUser
3 years agoBryan Burke
3 years agoUser
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoBryan Burke
3 years agoBryan Burke
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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