Aidan - Thank you very much for responding, and for your input and advice! The stringers are precuts and are equal measurements. However, they appear off because they have literally just been placed down in the vicinity of where they'll be located. I had just put them down in approx rise and location to know how much I was excavating away from old raised treebed. Didn't get to grading/leveling/measuring yet as regards to precise locating of stringers, and risers I'll attach to contain. And at that point I'll have to cut apart that 2x8 behind it and attach so steps get filled as one piece with porch pour. Good idea about the diagonal stakes. I will do that. I'll use some extra 2x's that I have and shape a diagonal brace support at several spots spaced around the forms, thanks.

I do not like to throw anyone under the bus, however, this is something the designer should have had figured out and ran options by you. The easiest solution, in my opinion, is to eliminate the bottom step and extend the walkway, leaving 2 8" risers. in order to do the "ramping" of the walk, the walk will need to be lifted and gradually raised to the step. Obviously, the grading on the sides of the walk will need to be raised slightly also. The bright side? Raising the walkway and beds can only help with drainage!

I am so sorry! Your last sentence breaks my heart for you. :( I just wrote a detailed reply - just to have it deleted. Grr. I have looked into this a little (I am not a builder or anything - just through Google) and it seems that many houses have a small step up (2-4 inches) into their house. Apparently it is to help keep weather from entering when the door is open. You have a porch, so this wouldn't be much of an issue BUT the point is: there can be a "mini" step up without it being a tripping hazard. Our home ( we rent ) has this and I have never even thought about it! The fact that there is a door frame, and usually different flooring, gives our brain the info it needs to understand. Does that make sense? Someone suggested something similar earlier in this conversation: build a step that is the same rise as the others you have (are there others? I can't tell from your photo). Make it wider than your front door (it will look better this way). Then the last inch or so will just be part of the natural step into your home. If you are skeptical, you could build a temporary one out of wood (a couple 2x6s would work), and try it. :) Anyway, I am praying (hope that is okay!) that you will see one thing every day (even if it is little) that you love about living in your new home - to help offset your frustration. Sincerely, C.

In some areas, a large building lot alone could cost you $50,000. Is this a case of a RENTED lot and you're only buying the home BUT renting the lot from a power company that makes use of the lake/dam for power production? If the land is for sale, How much is the land itself worth per acre in this same area? How large is the lot? Whether you're renting or buying the lot, would local building codes give you have the option to tear the house down and build another house from scratch or significantly alter this one ... or is this a case of imposed decisions and very limited options because of ... what ... historical society or home owners association? Does the lot and/or the house have a view of the lake it's near? How close is the house/lot to a town and the kind of shopping options you want and school and entertainment options and hospital and medical care? Is it where you want to build your "forever" home -- (if this is to be that)? Are you considering flipping this house or is it the right size for your family -- are you interested in the potential resale value but only years or decades from now? Does that garage to the left behind it go with it and what kind of shape is it in -- does it have plumbing such as utility room for a washer/dryer? Some people are building tiny homes from single car garages -- smaller than that one which appears to be a two car garage. What utilities are readily available to home and/or garage? Electrical pole nearby? Natural gas? Water: City water access w/meter already in place or will you need to bore/drill a well? Is the "new well" bored or drilled and does it already have a pump? Is there a septic tank or sewer lines? If you find that it is already stripped down to the studs -- are the rafters and floor joists visible? What kind of shape are they in? Is the chimney safe or would it be lined with triple wall pipe and/or add gas logs or would you be better off removing chimney and fireplace? Any heating system would likely need to be replaced for safety and efficiency. If there are new windows or other new materials that will be sold with the home, are they the kind of windows, etc., that you want ... and/or could you, if you chose, buy the home for less without those material choices of someone else? What side of the house is North, South, East, West? Will the windows and natural light be where you want them or, if not, could you change them? Do you specifically want this style of house or is it the location and price that interests you? If the rafters of the entire roof are good but the porch has problems, have you considered removing/replacing those porch supports, enclosing the porch and building another porch? (While you have the roof off is likely when you need to make any alterations to any weight bearing walls you intend to make.) If the foundation of the porch has problems, does that mean the entire foundation has problems? Is that pale color stucco or paint put over brick and why -- are there hidden patched foundation cracks? While I like the large old tree in the right side yard, your insurance agent may not. If/when you have a chance to go into the home, take a tape measure and camera with you. You want to be able to draw the floor plan to scale as is and draw some basic ideas as to what you want before talking with an architect and any other pros to get cost estimates. Would you be able to store your possessions in that garage and park a small (rented) trailer beside it on the property to live in while you rebuild the house or will you be paying rent/mortgage elsewhere and commuting while renovating this one? How much of the work could you do yourself ... do you intend to do yourself? All these things matter and affect value/price and what your offer, if any, should be. Do post pics when you can get inside. Do keep us abreast of your progress if you do buy it.