Hi Annkh, it sounds like we are at a similar place in our remodels, I have just finalized the layout in the last few days...I think it's the last revision! I need to finish up these cabinet choices asap, because everything else is rolling along, and my cabinet decisions are slowing us down! Regarding the ROT, good point about useage of taller items...most items would fit in a large drawer, and if tallest pot doesn't fit, yes I could store elsewhere. It might be worth it to chance the drawers. I have a 4' wide place to put either a ROT or drawer cabs for pots and pans. To both you and drbeannie2000 - I just calculated that my FiestaWare dishes to go in 1 large drawer are a whopping 68 lbs. IDK if my drawers will be capable of that weight, and IDK if I actually want them all in one drawer - that just seems like a lot of weight to put in one drawer. They are all different colors and even on the upper cabinet shelf when I wanted to use certain colors I had to lift a heft of plates to get what I wanted. It might actually work better for me to have 4 drawers, then I can put my fav dishes in one drawer, and less fav - or 'summer colors' - in the next drawer. Seasonally switch them around, most used in top drawer. I'm putting an island in my remodel and that's where the dishes cabs will be - I will have 2 - 24" W drawer cabs for dishes (FW in one, and a set of pottery dishes in the other.) I think, after all, that 4 drawers might work better for me with these heavy dishes, and the bottom/largest drawer will hold the serving bowls and platters to these dishes. Does anyone see a downside to that?

Very sorry to hear about your experience aa1notary. I have no experience whatsoever with that product nor any bias one way or the other, but most often times water infiltration is due to installation issues as opposed to the product itself. The video has expired, but it sounds like perhaps you have horizontal sliders? Something as simple as caulked over or clogged weep holes could cause water to accumulate in the sill... Again, sorry to hear about your experience. I'd recommend having the installation company out to inspect, and possibly in conjunction with that manufacturer rep so that they cannot each blame each other when the other is not present.

I'm resurrecting this thread...have a slightly different question in addition to all of the issues already discussed. I'm going to order from Conestoga I think. I'm replacing white thermofoil doors which are 20 years old and haven't really faded, but there are a few where a candle or the toaster got too close and caused some minor melting....Most people think they look nice, but in my mind they are still "cheap". The uppers are 42" I'm going to stick with white and just buy doors to match the existing boxes which are fine. Also, I have granite and it's hard to find someone willing to remove it to install complete cabinets. My question is....will a mapleframe/mdf center FEEL like a real wood door? Will it feel different than my thermofoil? I'm talking in terms of both surface and the weight in your hand as you open and close it. Will the outside edges and the panel raise etc be sharper than thermofoil? If I get mdf center will I still have the defined edges I am looking for. If you've had thermofoil you will know what I am asking. I'm toying with getting 5 peice mdf...but don't want to lose the wood look or feel... I think the mdf center is my best bet. My husband is what I like to call..anal...pretty sure he will be bothered by cracks, but he doesn't want the fake plastic look either. Pretty sure all wood is not a good choice for me, too bad because I love wood... The style I am leaning toward is https://www.cabinetjoint.com/cabinet-door/monarch-square/  but I am also toying with shaker style. Wondering if the shaker trend is headed out....Also considering doing a grey island by applying end panels. Guess I could start a new thread for those questions.

I'm not sure I understand the question. Do you want basic mouldings now that will be ripped out later when you start adding details? If so, then I'd go with the cheapest option available and I suspect that actual moulding will be cheaper than using 1x lumber. Or are you saying you want good quality but "essential" moulding now (baseboard and door/window casing) and then add things like crown and chair at a later date? I don't like MDF moulding because I find it difficult to cope and I don't think nails have the same holding power. But since you're not installing it... When sanded, primed, and two top coats, finger jointed pine should look just fine. Poplar is another option, it's a softer hardwood that takes paint very well.