I professionally clean upholstery, most of the jobs are spot cleaning specific stains. I have about a dozen different cleaners, some of which work only on specific stains. My go-to cleaner is an enzyme + detergent. Enzymes are good for breaking up proteins in food and "body fluids" that are the most common stains I see. I also use it when I am just doing general cleaning (last year I did a high school cafeteria that had not been cleaned in 9 years, and even then, a lot of the stains were not removed 9 years ago.) On 80% of them, that's all I needed. On tough grease stains (think 20 years of hamburgers and french fries), I used a stronger emulsifier as a second treatment. But if you're just doing ordinary cleaning, look for a carpet and upholstery cleaning solution, e.g., Hoover or Bissell. Even a little Dawn and water would work pretty well. Do not use laundry detergents as they have "optical brighteners" that are not good for upholstery fabrics. Before you buy anything, check the cleaning code for W or WS. I can carefully water clean about 80% of S-coded fabric. But 100% cotton, rayon or silk are not good with water. Note too, that many of the "citrus" based cleaners work chemically like the "dry cleaning" solvents and are not effective on ordinary soiling. It all has to do with chemistry and solubility.

Hi Jockewing, I found the information following on the eHow.com site. An option not mentioned below is spot remover from a carpet cleaning company. I have some from Chem-Dry, which says it can be used on upholstery also, after testing it in a hidden area. (BTW, I still have a half-bottle of Aero Spot Remover, which is trichloroethylene, but I'm keeping it. LOL) How to Purchase Dry Cleaning Solvent for Upholstery Cleaning 1. Upholstery, such as the fabric used on couches, loveseats, chairs and recliners, can be tricky when it comes to removing stains, residue or marks on the fabric surface. Always blot up any stains or liquids as soon as possible with a clean, soft cloth. Further cleaning can be done with dry cleaning solvent, especially if the fabric tag has a cleaning code of "S", indicating that dry cleaning solvent is the best way to remove stains. There are a number of places to purchase the solvent. Stop by your local furniture retailer, particularly the retailer where the upholstery was purchased, if possible. Ask if they sell dry cleaning solvent that will remove stains from upholstery. 2. Look at hardware or home repair stores for dry cleaning solvent in the cleaning supply section of the store. 3. Visit local dry cleaning shops and ask if they sell the solvent. Explain the type of upholstery you are attempting to clean and ask if they have any additional stain-removal tips. 4. Purchase dry cleaning solvent online. In the search engine field, type "upholstery safe dry cleaning solvent" to view online retailers that sell dry cleaning solvent appropriate for use on upholstery. Water-free solvents are typically the best type of dry cleaning solvent for cleaning upholstery. Dab a small amount of the dry cleaning solvent onto the stain and blot gently until the stain is gone. Perform a test on an inconspicuous area of the upholstery with the dry cleaning solvent to check for staining or other discoloration before removing stains. Here is a link that might be useful: How to Purchase Dry Cleaning Solvent

I know this is not quite on topic but I'll throw it out there anyway (deal with me here a minute). I noticed today my Allergen cycle seemed to be counting down faster than normal. The default cycle time is 1:13 (that includes three rinses by default) used on the Heavy Duty cycle. Now the Eluxtrolux does some interesting things with time and I think it has to do with how many volts your house is receiving (which can vary with demand on the electric utility)...I'll explain. OK, so when I'm using a heat intensive cycle "Sanitary or Allergen" I have seen the washer do one of two things to make sure it's going to reach its target temp. It will sometimes delay time, usually at the 40 minutes remaining time mark. Meaning it will hold at 40 minutes literally for a few minutes giving the heater time to catch up to the target temp. I've also seen the time jump from 40 remaining minutes to 1:25 remaining minutes. I'm assuming that the voltage coming into the house was not sufficient to raise the water to it's target temp in the time allotted so the washer (either by default or by it calculating an estimation) bumped up the time significantly. Now if it starts reaching it's target temp (152F) faster than anticipated then the timer count down doubles or triples. Meaning it will go from 40 minutes left in the count down to 37 minutes within one minute. It speeds up time in 20 second increments (meaning it will knock off a minute every 20 seconds). On my desktop computer I have a UPS battery back up with a digital display that gives me electrical information. Today my house is receiving between 121-122 volts usually it's between 120 volts or lower (brown out - purposely caused by any electric utility), so the heater on the washer was able to produce more heat faster since it was able to use more of the available voltage. Now to Mama's issue... Mama, do you have your washer plugged into a surge protector? If it is, could it be limiting voltage to the heater? Or is the Sanitary cycle just not engaging the heating element? Is your house receiving 120 volts or lower? I use the RCA PSAPP1R Appliance Surge Protector for my washer. I'm really curious to what your installer and Whirlpool have to say about the Sanitary cycle and the heating element not engaging.

Call the store you purchesed it from since my understanding is California has real rules about many chemicals used . Myself I have not used ad ry cleaner for 15 yrs. I ahte the smell of stuff drycleaned and honestly how would that work with a sofa anyway. Maybe tell us what needs cleaning IMO polyester can be washed if it is the pillows and a mild soap and water for stains on parts not washable by hand or in the gentle cycle on your machine. Jennifer gave you a great contact