I'm a happy Speed Queen owner. I'd strongly disagree with the CR low rating if I was a member. I'm not and I won't be, given the way they rate washers. Apparently, CR doesn't place much or ANY(?) weight on cycle length or rinse performance. Speed Queen conventional top loaders rock these areas. They talk about good expected reliability for washers that have one-year warranties and say nothing about SQ 3-year "bumper to bumper" warranty, 5-year motor and 10-year transmission warranties. If the manufacturers really thought their washers would have low failure rates, they'd offer longer warranties as a "free" (to the manufacturer) way to lure customers. The CR wash performance is tilted toward deeply soiled or stained clothes. Fine, but that's about 1% of my laundry and I pre-treat stains for excellent results anyway. CR claims the SQ lacks certain features compared to other models. Big deal. I value the simplicity of electro-mechanical timers and manual (side-flow) bleach dispensers. They just work. There are no expensive computer boards to fail. No Automatic Temperature Control means I get 127-degree hot water wash (measured) from my 130-degree adjusted gas water heater. If I wanted to adjust my water heater thermostat, I could get a hotter wash instantly. My bright whites are excellent at the current temperature, given the proper measure of good detergent. It doesn't "boil" the clothes, but I get excellent wash performance and the dryer gets the clothes hotter anyway if I was worried about nasties that need heat to kill (I'm not.) My HOT cycle is about 20-25 minutes, start to finish. I can do four loads in the time it takes some of the High Efficiency machines to heat its water to the 130-degree range for a single load. My hot water enters at 127-degrees and the wash finishes at 125-degrees. The thermal mass of about 15 gallons of water easily exceeds the mass of clothes and tub, so I don't lose much heat over the course of an 8-12 minute hot wash cycle. CR cares nothing about spin drain vs. neutral drain. SQ is one of the few (only?) manufacturers starting the spin while the tub is full of water and allowing it to drain as the spin picks up speed. It leaves the clothes better spread out on the tub for the spray rinse or 300G final spin. Most TL washers stop, drain, then spin leaving the clothes bunched up in the bottom part of the tub. SQ washers aren't for everyone. They're not for technology geeks. They're old school, but I'm among the group of consumers that appreciate excellent results from basic, well executed design.

GoTerps let's look at each system's numbers. option #1 3929268 Active Systems XC14 SERIES LENNOX INDUSTRIES, INC. XC14-024-230-02 CX34-25+TDR SL280UH090V36B* 24000 13.20 16.00 option #2 3929121 Active Systems XC14 SERIES LENNOX INDUSTRIES, INC. XC14-030-230-03 CX34-31+TDR SL280UH090V36B* 29000 13.50 16.00 option #3 3656259 Active Systems COMFORT 16 PURON AC CARRIER AIR CONDITIONING 24ACC624A**30 CNPV*3014A** 58CV(A,X)070-12 23000 13.00 16.00 1 option #4 3656288 Active Systems COMFORT 16 PURON AC CARRIER AIR CONDITIONING 24ACC630A**30 CNPV*3117A** 58CV(A,X)070-12 28400 13.00 16.00 1 all qualify for tax credit. three observations. 1.The Lennox furnace is oversized and should drop down to the 70K model. 2.It is important that lineset be sized correctly whether you select 2 ton or 2 1/2 ton condenser. Flushing is acceptable practice but refrigerant lineset size must be correct. If you elect the 2 1/2 ton condenser, it is unlikely that old lineset will be correct size 3.I do not like thermostat selection for these quotes. I would like to hear from Ryan's ideas/suggestions on this. I do recommend a good 4-5" box filter cabinet. I would not put down more than 25% upon contract acceptance. now to the fuel comparison between electric vs nat gas. to be fair, I will use 50 therms mthly usage to better average your nat gas mthly base charge. Cost per 100,000 btu of useable heat Heat Pump with COP of 2.75 $1.15 Nat Gas Furnace 80% eff $1.81 you can readily see that a HP above temp balance pt is the less expensive choice to heat your home. Keep in mind the main reason for the large difference is the 80% eff furnace. yes, if operating costs are important to you, then HP operation would save you some $$s. ask dealer for option on HP condenser version if interested. IMO

All perimeter cabinets are simply white. My island will be stained oak. With the black top. However there will be an island table that is attached next to it that will have the white quartzite. I have pieces saved at the stone yard that are what I used in the kitchen so do not want to deviate. I originally wanted soapstone but not to be found here in my price range and when I found the quartzite, I could see my kitchen needed to be light countertops but I wanted the bulletproofness of the granite. Plus they didn't have enough quartzite for the whole kitchen. So I have a mix. Its all good. I would post photos but the computer isn't cooperating. Can you use the island top you are replacing for the wet bar? Or are you repurposing it elsewhere?

It seems like a standard squarish room. Many dining tables are rectangular in their smallest configuration. As long as you usually use the table in the size of your photo, I personally wouldn't go with a rectangular light - especially if it required extra mounting points. Stick with a traditional circular/globe/roundish chandelier. Gives you more options down the line without having to patch holes in the ceiling. Discalimer on next comment: I've never refinished a chandelier with spray paint. I think there is enough detail on your chandelier that refinishing could easily look sloppy if you're not very careful during the process. Don't forget to get a new chain if you do refinish (assuming you're not going to go through trouble of spraying all sides of that). Anyhow, I would suggest a new chandelier if the budget allows. I like your choice. Assuming you stick with open chandelier and candelabra style bulbs, add some nice flame (bent) tip, frosted, 2700 K, ~300-400 lumen, dimmable LED bulbs while you're at it. Something like this: https://www.satco.com/s9869.html They aren't cheap, so budget for that if you have a lot of bulbs and decide to go with LED. Also, you may need to upgrade your dimmer for LED. Good luck!