Thanks Wayne. Looks like 9 ft rope light maybe in 3ft channels to keep straight along stringer will work. Can cut off plug and wire to box in basement or back of closet at bottom of stairs. Now just have to see what my carpenter thinks of capping off with molding (since it'll be about 6" short of my stringer length could cause problems with transition - he's still trying to figure out how to finish off stringer at bottom). It'll raise my stringer height about 1/2" so that's another 1/2" to deal with in transition to baseboard.

Take a look at Revere Pewter. It is a gray that depends on the light in your house. it looks very light gray in some pictures but can also go well with some Browns. My daughter used it in a bathroom with a rich brown toned vanity and it looked great, but took on a tan undertone, while still looking gray.

We are looking for motion sensor LED lights to be put in the wall of the staircase to the basement. It is an open bamboo staircase (steel shaft up the middle) with only one side touching a wall - open rod railing on the other side. I would like each step to have a LED low on the wall which is automatically turned off/on when someone goes up or down. It would also be nice to have the ability to flip a switch and leave them on if wanted. I have seen lots of big bulky lights but would like something small, recessed and on every step. I was looking at Reactive Lighting. Is there any other options available in Canada that is good quality. I saw Interactive Furniture's website but they are in Europe although it did look pretty awesome! Does anyone have any experience with Reactive Lighting - are they great?

Copy that! You may be able to keep what you have in place, but I would certainly make sure it has dimmer control so you're not over-bright in laundry. One additional idea for this laundry space would be undercabinet lighting (so simple now with LED strips or pucks) that's also dimmable. That might give you more targeted task lighting while working out a stain or soaking items in your utility sink without needing to reach for the overhead light. Alternatively, it could be helpful to consider moving the switched box location from overhead to the far wall (rt side, from in front of laundry units) that could help provide a beam angle into the laundry units over-shoulder for sorting and transfer, since there's less wall surface behind from that perspective that isn't shared with the hall area. In tall, narrow stair halls like this, I often recommend a plan of wall lamps that uplight the tall vault and bounce the light down into the pedestrian area versus directional beams down from overhead. When placed at the right elevation over and above personal height, they don't have to interfere with traffic clearances even in a super-tight space. Hope that helps, cheers!