I know I probably went overboard, but I have been searching Houzz for shower/tub combos for myself if I decide to go in that direction. Most of these pictures have Master Bath titles - they tend to be small houses or apartments in large cities where space is an issue. They all have a generous sized tub. A few have extra shower bling and even a separate tub filler. All of them have material choices and the level of tile work that you see in a master bathroom. I'm sure that if I searched Houzz I could find just as many, or even more, remodels of small master baths where they have just built a walk in shower. I think the decision to do a shower/tub may be a personal choice because they want a soaking tub - since they are titled Master I'm assuming the bath is not the only bath in the house and they could easily just go with a shower. [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/lakewood-bathroom-contemporary-bathroom-denver-phvw-vp~564696) [Contemporary Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103) by Aurora General Contractors Heritage Home Improvement [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/tamara-mack-design-interiors-traditional-bathroom-san-francisco-phvw-vp~1860108) [Transitional Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2112) by San Francisco Interior Designers & Decorators Tamara Mack Design [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/jackson-hole-residence-rustic-bathroom-portland-phvw-vp~1116073) [Rustic Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/rustic-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2111) by Portland Architects & Designers Howells Architecture + Design, LLC [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/bath-traditional-bathroom-charlotte-phvw-vp~1153799) [Traditional Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2107) by Charlotte Architects & Designers Don Duffy Architecture [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/tile-showers-traditional-bathroom-houston-phvw-vp~1597876) [Traditional Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2107) by Lake Jackson Kitchen & Bath Remodelers JC Remodeling & Restoration, LLC [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/icon-development-tofino-job-contemporary-bathroom-vancouver-phvw-vp~2443799) [Contemporary Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103) by Nanaimo Tile, Stone & Countertops City Tile [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/riverside-drive-super-groovy-masterpiece-contemporary-bathroom-new-york-phvw-vp~2456534) [Contemporary Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103) by New York General Contractors Rusk Renovation [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/burns-park-addition-and-remodeling-2000-and-2006-traditional-bathroom-detroit-phvw-vp~374078) [Traditional Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2107) by Canton Architects & Designers Studio Z Architecture [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/erica-islas-silverlake-contemporary-bathroom-los-angeles-phvw-vp~190979) [Contemporary Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103) by Culver City Interior Designers & Decorators Erica Islas / EMI Interior Design, Inc. [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/hall-bathroom-traditional-bathroom-new-york-phvw-vp~678390) [Traditional Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2107) by New York Interior Designers & Decorators Nathan Cuttle Design [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/master-bathroom-highrise-new-york-city-contemporary-bathroom-new-york-phvw-vp~89484) [Contemporary Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103) by New York Photographers Vanni Archive/Architectural Photography [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/carnegie-hill-residence-traditional-bathroom-new-york-phvw-vp~204853) [Traditional Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2107) by New York Architects & Designers Incorporated[[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/upper-west-side-nyc-apartment-renovation-transitional-bathroom-new-york-phvw-vp~6968329) [Transitional Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2112) by New York Architects & Designers John M Reimnitz Architect PC div> [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/mediterranean-bathroom-mediterranean-bathroom-san-francisco-phvw-vp~1042841) [Mediterranean Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/mediterranean-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2109) [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/nyc-bathrooms-traditional-bathroom-phvw-vp~7215764) [Traditional Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2107) by New York Design-Build Firms DELUXE Design & Construction [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/cat-mountain-greenbelt-homes-austin-tx-transitional-bathroom-austin-phvw-vp~834553) [Eclectic Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2104) by Austin General Contractors Greenbelt Construction This post was edited by Anna_in_TX on Tue, Feb 11, 14 at 6:40

There are usually installation instructions that can be found for the tub on the manufacturer's website. The instructions will include dimensioned drawings from the bottom of the tub's feet to the underside of the tub's rim. So take the dimensions and installation instructions from the website. You need to know if the tub will just sit on the subfloor, or if it is to be set into a mortar bed. Just sitting on the subfloor will really define the height of the tub deck, whereas setting it into a mortar bed offers you some flexibility due to the thickness of the mortar bed. Decide what type of decking material you will use for the tub deck. You need to know the thickness of the material. You also need to know the thicknesses of the materials that make up the substrate for the decking material. Will it simply be a slab of stone set on plywood? Or will it be tile over cement board over plywood? You work backwards to establish the height of the framed deck. If you have all that ahead of time yes, the framers can frame the tub deck. If not, they can simply frame the end walls of the alcove and the actual tub deck can be framed in later. Here's an example where the walls were all framed and the tub deck was added later. In this photo the framing of the tub deck is simply floating in the alcove, it's not secured to the walls. It's simply sitting atop four 2x4 legs. Once the proper overall elevations were established, the final legs were cut, installed, and everything was secured together. Another shot with variations within: Here's something I drew up for someone years ago. It shows some of the the rough elements that go into determining the proper elevation for a drop-in tub. Your specific installation may differ, but the overall idea is the same. Let's say the tub is dimensioned at 19" from the bottom of the tub's rim to the bottom of the tub itself. And the installation instructions recommend setting the tub in a 1" thick (finished thickness) bed of mortar. Add 19" to 1" and you get 20". So you want the finished surface of the tub deck, in this case tile, to be 20" above the platform (or subfloor) that the tub will sit upon. The tile is 3/8" thick. The cement board 1/2". The plywood 3/4". You have two layers of thinset, one between the ply and cement board, and one between the cement board and the tile, Each are 1/8" thick. Add it all up and you get 1-7/8". 20" minus 1-7/8" is 18-1/8". So in this case I'd want the framing for the tub deck walls to be 18-1/8" tall. Add the 3/4" ply on top. Then cement board and tile. Then I'd put about a 1-1/2" to 2" thick bed of mortar down, then drop the tub in place. Smoosh the tub down until the underside of the rim just contacts the tile, that should compress the mortar bed to the desired 1" height. Let the mortar set up a bit, then you can remove any excessive mortar squeeze out if there is any. Caulk where the tub rim sits on the tile to prevent water splash out from getting under the rim. There you go. With all drop-in tubs, you want the weight of the tub to be supported by the subfloor, you don't want the weight of the tub supported by the tub's rim.

"I could also just get a pull-down faucet for the sink and aim it at the tub to fill it." You could - but you won't like it. The most one of those will fill is 2.2 gallons a minute - some less that that. Divide your tub's capacity by that and you're looking at 20 minutes to fill +/- Not good. beekeeper - I have one of these and have placed more than half a dozen in projects over the past few years. What you get for your money is a machined brass body that mounts in the ceiling or wall and a plated trim piece. The body is a substantial piece of hardware and chrome,brass, nickel plating costs $$$ too. Whether that's all worth 500 + bucks, is up to you. Like davidro says, it doesn't matter what the delivery system is, this is just an opening for hot water to come out of, albeit one with a bit of engineering. GD & Spanish - the splashing is very much dependent on the mounting height of the unit AND the tub selected AND the location of the water column inside the tub. Mine hardly splashes at all. The ones I have seen that splash only do so for a minute or so until their is enough of a pool in the tub to counteract it. Flat bottom tubs with tall ceilings are going to splash more than one from 7' into a sloped contact point in the tub. Besides , we're talking water in a bathroom, generally tiled so what's the big deal ??? It's not like the amount of splash is the same as taking a shower and leaving the door open. 2. While you are correct in that "the water cools off much more than it would from just a regular tub filler", it's not as if it cools off enough for anyone without a thermometer to tell a difference, and a very sensitive one at that! Sure the air cools the water more from a stream falling from 8 feet than one falling from two feet. But bath water that is 100 + degrees is not going to cool down to 90 deg. in the xtra 1-2 seconds it takes it to fall from the ceiling- get real. Additionally , that filler produces a very dense column of water (laminar) that has little to no air in it, so one might argue it will be hotter and less prone to heat loss than a "regular" filler that introduces room temp air into it's stream - thus cooling it off on it's way to the tub. So don't worry Spanish -your tub will still be plenty hot with that filler if you choose it. IT'S A NON -ISSUE people. I've already alluded to the real issue for lower tub temps - FILL TIME. That's directly related to the delivery system ( valve). If your valve and accompanying filler will only deliver 5 gallons a minute it's going to take a while to fill an 80 gallon tub, and there will be some heat loss. Select a valve that delivers 20 gallons a minute and you can be soaking quicker that most people can undress. Here is a link that might be useful: laminar valve body - see page 2

I know this is an old thread. I'm comtemplating if I want a tub at all but if I get an air or a jetted tub, if the sides have stone around, how do you reach the motor if you need a repair? Just curious if anyone has dealt with that situation. For my current outdated tub, I can reach the motor through the the cabinet; I have a cut out there. I could do the same thing. But adding a slab of quartz to a tub make for a very expensive tub. Dominique, what did you decide and are you happy with your decision?