I had read about the Hansgrohe valve, but I didn't care much for it. Can't understand exactly how I could control temperature, volume and diverter with only 2 handles... We recently installed a new shower with a rainshower head and handheld head, run by one of the Hansgrohe controls. It's very simple to operate. The temperature is controlled by the smaller handle on the outside. I think I've touched it once; after putting it on a temperature both my wife and I apparently find desirable, we never touch it. The larger, inner handle controls volume and diverter. With the Thermobalance II, shown above, you turn the handle left of center to use one shower head, or right to use the other showerhead. Want to be able to use both at the same time (as I did)? For a few more dollars, you get the Thermobalance III valve and trim... This unit could control three different showerheads, or the plumbing can be configured to control two showerheads -- which is what we did, and what I think you're saying you want to do. Turn it left to the for one showerhead, turn all the way to the left and the second showerhead runs; in between, both showerheads run. It's easy to adjust the volume between the two, although I have to say I just go mid-way and let them both run full force. I like the simplicity of having only one control and one handle on the wall. You can certainly configure it with three different handles if you prefer; I just wanted to explain how the Hansgrohe works if you're interested. -- Eric

Hello, my faucet is having a leaking issue, as well. However, it's a different type of faucet from what I am seeing here. Water actually trickles out the top where the lever is that you pull up to turn the faucet on. It also drips out of the spout. And the kicker is that when I open the cabinet underneath, there are big drops in three places coming down from the inside top of the cabinet where the bowl/sink sits. The stranger part is that I do not see any water on top of the cabinet underneath the bowl/sink. In other words, the inside is dripping as if there is a puddle in top of the cabinet which is causing it to leak inside. So there are 3 separate leaks 2 from the faucet itself and one from the cabinet top under the bowl. So I am basically sitting here listening to drips inside the cabinet and if left undetected a large puddle will form in the bottom of the cabinet. I hope all this makes sense, so I can get some help with this confusing issue. Thank you so much.

As has been mentioned, the most common cause of water hammer is the quick open/close action from fast-acting valves. Typically found in washing machines and dishwashers. It's less common with toilet fill valves, faucet taps, or shower valves. First thing you can do it to drain your entire house supply plumbing system. Normally water hammer arrestors are plumbed in above the valves during construction. You may have some already in your house's plumbing system. Over time they can fill with water. Draining the plumbing system can drain the water out of the arrestors, and when the supply is refilled, the air pocket that provides the cushion is reestablished. Turn off the water supply to the house. Open every faucet of valve in the house. Then go back in the basement and open the drain valve, or needle bleed valve(s), or basement utility sink tap...you're just trying to drain the hot and cold copper supply tubing above. No need to drain the water heater, boiler, etc. Just your domestic water supply tubing system. When drained, close the drain valve(s), turn the water back on, then go back around closing all the taps/valves. It took about 20 years before I had to drain my system to recharge the arrestors in my house. Last year I was in the shower and the water started surging a bit and I heard a series of mild "thump" noises. That had never happened before. My wife had started laundry. The thumps coincided with the washing machine valves cycling. I drained and refilled, the issue disappeared, hopefully for another 20 years. FWIW, when I plumbed my house I used simple extensions of copper tubing for water arrestors, similar to what you linked to in your photo. Also check your household water pressure. There should be a pressure regulator on your well's water supply tank, or at the point where city water enters your house. House pressure is often regulated between 40-60PSI, or 50-70PSI by well pressure regulators. City water can be higher, you can regulate it down to around 50-60PSI. If neither of those work, then attack the change in your system; the new shower valve. Since it's already tiled in on the shower side, I'd open up the back of the wall if able. Review the plumbing layout and have water hammer arrestors installed on both the hot and cold sides above the valve. If that can't be done, then the Watts LF-150A that Geoffrey linked to is a good retrofit option. You'll want one each on the hot and cold sides. They can be installed under a tub, in the basement, under a vanity, etc. I've never enclosed one of them in a wall. They may not cure the issue, but they can lessen it. Agree with Mule Meat, the "unused parts" in the small ziplock look like port plugs for your valve. If your installation did not require all the ports on the valve to be used, you simply plug the unneeded ports with those plugs. The green colored sleeves look like wall anchors.

If CF makes foot pedals, I'd trust them too. They make good stuff. I'm a fan of their faucets (except for those miserable metered ones in public restrooms hehe). When I was looking for the first kitchen, I don't think anyone else made one easily available for residential use that does what the TM does--the ones I found would only engage hot OR cold instead of whatever the faucet was set at. I think I like the kickplate better than the lever but they're really close and I have no problem with the lever. You don't really notice them once you get used to them so it's hard to compare. Water just happens. :P The lever is a bit more elegant if you happen to be on the floor looking at your toe kick. The kick plate is a slightly bigger target for your foot, though.