Here are a couple photos of ours. It was necessary to elevate around 7-8 inches due to the property grade. I put approximately 8” of gravel and 12” of block below the exposed wall. It functions as a French Drain that continues to the side lawn. Patio is 26x24 and was built in 1998.

I’m confused about the posts. Do they stay? Actually your hardscape needs to go first ahead of the landscape. The hydrangeas may need to move. No soil against the clapboard.

Thank you for your reply. Your patio looks great and has clearly lasted!

Regarding the posts - it is hard to see but the porch has three posts (2 on the ends that you can see unpainted and 1 in the center) that holds it up so they have to stay. In order to have a level base for the patio I need a wall on that side. I am trying to decide what is the best way to do that. In order to put 8'' of gravel and 12'' of block below grade I would hit the footers of those three posts. So do I pull the wall out away from the footers which could look a bit strange as there would be a gap between the wall and the current patio or do I put pressure treated ground contact wood across the posts in the ground and that acts as the wall to hold my gravel?

I am flexible with the hydrangeas.

My preference is always a 4-5 ft plant bed between the house and the start of the patio, which would solve a lot of your issues (and look better). But if you're going to butt up to the porch, I would do the pressure treated 2xs to retain that edge. Depending on the length of the span between posts you may want to run a 2x4 behind the boards to add some stiffness, so they don't bow out as you compact. Is it best practice? No, but you should easily get 10 years+ out of it. If you're DIYing it, you'll know how to fix it if it does settle in that spot.

I agree with Revolutionary Gardens about a planting bed adjacent to your home.

I live in Northern Illinois where our frost line can exceed 3 feet. Yours must be less based on your existing footers.

DIY is a challenge doing things correctly and the time/manpower. Speak with your local “Permit Store” for building codes and also talk with a landscaping supply for best materials. Also consider disposal of excavation - you’ll have to remove topsoil, etc. to be replaced with gravel. For reference, i moved top soil to build our adjacent planting gardens, subsoil was hauled away and approximately 120,000 pounds of gravel brought in as replacement fill. It took 7 months (mostly weekends) and done with shovels and wheelbarrow - I opted mot to have heavy machinery destroy the remaining lawn. Good luck.

Thank you both! You have been incredibility helpful.

So it sounds like keep the 4 feet between the existing porch and the new patio is the plan and the best path forward.

Now I just need to figure out pavers, steps, etc..

fnmroberts - I use to be in Illinois but now am in Tennessee and you are spot on with the frost line being not as deep. I might do a walk behind bucket for the excavation because anything bigger won't fit in my backyard and I haven't decided on how I will get the gravel back there but it might be shovel and wheelbarrow. I likely will give it a few hours and see the progress or lack there of and then will make the decision from there.

Thanks again!

This is how I dealt with steps. The “deck” sits over the original concrete stairs. It is 4’ wide and level with interior floor. This design and the landing-style steps are to safely transport food and for seniors with walking issues to be safely assisted.

Both your hardscape and landscaping is impressive! Thank you for sharing.