abananie-- with respect to the joint in the shower, a siliconized latex caulk will do fine, and in your case, being you have unsanded grout above, and sanded below, either will work as far as the caulking is concerned. Now, about the curb. HOPEFULLY, it's just a matter of water getting past the glass. Can you show me pics both close up, and overall of the door, and then also the water damage to the wood trim outside the shower? Also, are you seeing any cracking grout joints on or near the curb? (inside the shower OR out)

You can use Epoxy wood filler in wood repairing especially in small crack or scratches. Shape the epoxy with your fingers and by patting it with a scrap of wood. The final step is shape hardened epoxy with woodworking tools. Use a Surform plane or coarse rasp to remove large amounts of material and roughly shape the repair. Then use rasps, files and sandpaper to refine the shape and add details. If you remove too much or need to touch up the repair, add a layer of epoxy and repeat the process. Here is a link that might be useful: RCDC HomeBuilders

I'm picky too ogrose. I was going to do it myself after reading a lot of how-tos and seeing some videos online. Most of them took out the original tape and basically started over. One renailed the sheetrock to the stud, which looked like it would work best IF there is a stud behind the cracked area. I'm pretty sure I could do it and make it perfectly smooth, and then just have someone else retexture when they do the ceiling. But dh is in a hurry and wants it done NOW. But of the bids I've gotten so far, one guy makes a small "V" over the crack and cuts the tape to fit the area and remuds. The other guy just tapes over the existing crack without removing anything. I'm not really sure either of those methods will look seamless, or even hold up over time. annz, I'm not sure how much of a "V" the first guy would cut out - not enough to get all the original tape out from what he said.

This whole thing assumes you have a sectional door with cables going down to the bottom corners and a spring and shaft arrangement across the top. The springs support the weight of the entire door. Without the weight of the top panel, they will lift the rest of the door and try to do it very quickly. Before messing with a closed door under such tension, use something to keep the rest of the door firmly in the down position. Vice Grips can do that well, but I usually stick a Phillips screwdriver through one of the holes in the vertical track and into the door, usually at a roller bracket tube, on both sides. You don't have to mess with springs or cables under tension unless you're removing the bottom section. Once the door as a whole can't move up, just remove only the very top rollers at each corner, and the the top section hinges, to allow the top section to be removed. I don't usually see a need to lower or remove a top section to reinforce it. What's stopping you from doing it in place after disconnecting the opener? Did you know a garage door company can sell you a lightweight horizontal reinforcing strut that will fit your door perfectly? You would just have to drill a few pertinent holes. BTW, the screwdriver trick is also an excellent door lock when you're away on vacation. Nearly unbeatable by manipulation from outside.