Drainage for new foundation?
Edward Casabian
3 years ago
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Edward Casabian
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Basement-Foundation Drainage Issues
Comments (5)Basement stairwells usually have a seperate drain to the sump as do each run of tile from the perimeter of the building. There is filter cloth which is used to line drainage systems of the type you describe. It was not always used. If the cloth was not used, silt from the backfill and years of soaking rain will infiltrate the stone surrounding the tile and eventually the tile itself. Settlement will also cause dips in the pipe itself which will cause some water to "belly UP". Some of this silt will serve to level out those bellies and allow the water to drain. So a little silt at these points is ok. Rather than throw the most dire probelms at you and try to scare you with the more complex and worse case scenarios, I'll stick with the simplest and most affordable action. I think this would apply to your situation for a couple of reasons. One, the house is 24 years old and if it were a "really bad" problem, you would be complaining of flooding, not slow water drainage. Two, I've seen the problem you describe many times and the easy fix has always worked, with the soil composition you've described. If you had clay soil, it would have been much more complex. In my experience, I think the drain tile from the walk out stairway to the pump has a 24 year buildup of silt in it. There are a number of ways to clear it. It will be a little time consuming (a few hours) but it is a DYI job and will be is as good as new when you're finished. Remove the drain screen and put a garden hose without a nozzel into the cellar drain and let water run into it at a rate it will readily drain (you will increase rate as you clear the silt). At the sump end, insert another garden hose with a nozzel into the pipe where the water drains from. The nozzel should be the single cylinder type and locked into the heavy spray position. Start inserting the hose further into the pipe, the further the better, while running the water at full pressure. Silt will start washing out. As the flow increase, increase the water pressure to the outside hose. If the outside hose can easily be inserted further into the drain, do it. Keep working it this way until the watre runs clear. This method will keep you from clogging the pipe with silt. I don't recommend you do this but, once complete, you could put a ping pong ball in one end and a shop vac at the other and the ball would pop right through. Now how did I know that?...See MoreDrainage Away from Foundation Suggestions
Comments (2)You can grade the surface away fro the foundation, and even install impervious buried material to limit water penetration near the wall. You are likely to need to dig to the footer and install drainage to have any hope of solving the problem reliably though....See MoreReplace Shed on Concrete - Tying to foundation and drainage questions
Comments (3)I'm not sure why you have never had moisture inside the existing shed given those issues, and changing the roof line so that it increases the amount of water and snow on the uphill side sounds like a recipe for rotting of a wood structure over time. It may be that the existing roof design is a big factor in preventing water damage to date. Moisture will cause expansion and contraction of wood, which means that a caulk/adhesive bond between wood and concrete will likely fail over time, so it's hard to recommend this type of connection. I have three thoughts on these challenges: 1): excavate around the pad so you can lower the soil level to several inches below the top of the pad, and trench down and install 4" drains all around the perimeter. Then you should be able to overlap the sides of the existing pad; or 2): pour a new, slightly smaller, 4" pad on top of the existing one: an 8'X10'X4" pad will take about one yard of concrete. Then you can overlap the siding; or 3): Lay a cinder block perimeter foundation in mortar all around the outer edge of the existing pad and build your shed on top of this. With any of these approaches you should also do two things: 1): Securely anchor the shed to the foundation; and 2): Install gutters and downspouts....See Moreengineers for yard/foundation drainage issues
Comments (2)A real estate engineer may be able to find you a new home with better soil conditions....See Moreres2architect
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3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoSeabornman
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3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoEdward Casabian
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3 years agoEdward Casabian
3 years agoEdward Casabian
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3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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