You're right about it being hard to find pictures! But then it's hard to find pictures of non-white kitchens these days. There is a huge variety in the photos that I found. They cover everything from ultra modern to very rustic. Take a look and see what you like and what resonates with you. You're obviously drawn to wood (me too!) and I think you could have a beautiful kitchen with wood floors, cabs and counters. It's probably also something that would be pretty easy to make a mess out of. But you can say the exact same thing about a kitchen that is all white. You'll want to make sure your wood tones work together. I'd love to see pictures of samples you're thinking of using. Do what you love! [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-kitchen-rustic-kitchen-minneapolis-phvw-vp~347229) [Eclectic Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2104) by Minneapolis General Contractor John Kraemer & Sons [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/rustic-contemporary-rustic-kitchen-austin-phvw-vp~916372) [Contemporary Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2103) by Other Metro Design-build Legacy DCS [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/ktichen-rustic-kitchen-atlanta-phvw-vp~1942555) [Traditional Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Atlanta Architect Peace Design [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/natural-wood-countertop-traditional-kitchen-nashville-phvw-vp~2299390) [Traditional Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Atlanta Furniture And Accessories Littlebranch Farm [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/rustic-kitchen-dining-room-rustic-kitchen-nashville-phvw-vp~2299400) [Eclectic Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2104) by Atlanta Furniture And Accessories Littlebranch Farm [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/michelle-fries-rustic-kitchen-minneapolis-phvw-vp~312323) [Traditional Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Minneapolis Interior Designer Michelle Fries, BeDe Design, LLC [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/cambridge-contemporary-kitchen-contemporary-kitchen-boston-phvw-vp~36342) [Modern Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/modern-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2105) by Boston Architect LDa Architecture & Interiors [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/spanish-style-rustic-kitchen-austin-phvw-vp~81317) [Traditional Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Other Metro Kitchen And Bath Palmer Todd

Well... I'm a minority of one here... 37 years ago I started on our old house & I'm still going. I've done pretty much everything myself (yes, up to code) so I know what I've done in the past and how it's held up. Wood filler absolutely does not last under outside paint. Period. (The book "Wood" might be a good starting point to explain why.) Basically, wood moves. Filler does not. Starting to see the problem here? I did it and after 10 years or so it started falling out.. oops. Yes, caulk works. But you have to keep applying thin layers forever to get around the shrinkage problem. DAP used to have an elastomeric filler... it was basically thick caulk, so the shrinkage problem was still there, but not as hard to build up. Wood glued in place is probably ideal, but it can be hard or impossible to get a piece that fits the damaged portion tightly. Use an aliphatic resin glue (yellow wood glue) - it gives a little so it can handle the wood shrinking and expanding. You can try a thin layer of caulk for better adhesion, followed by filler immediately, while the caulk is wet. The layer of embedded caulk gives enough it may keep the filler from coming loose. Whatever you do, you need to apply a layer of wood hardener first if the wood is weathered- ie. gray. At that point the lignin- the glue that holds the wood fibers together- is gone, so whatever you put in the hole will come loose, still attached to those weak wood fibers. Lacquer-based hardeners (Minwax) work ok; if you want it to be as strong as the original wood, use epoxy that's made for the purpose (Abatron). It's thin so it soaks into the wood nicely and leaves it stronger than the original. Then fill. Good luck! And the guy who said wood filler would come loose... he was dead on.

I have never had a kitchen where it would have made sense to have a separate prep and clean-up sink. So, yes, the island sink feels a little odd to me. If it was my kitchen, it probably would take me a long time to figure out why it's there. I'd rather just have a single work-station style sink for both prep and clean-up. But I can admit, that that's just a function of how I like to work. What @cheri127 describes about how she uses the kitchen sounds plausible, when entertaining large groups. I can see the utility of the island. And except for the sink it doesn't bother me. On the other hand, I do agree with @Milly Rey. The left side of the kitchen still feels really awkward to me. The cabinets and appliances feel not quite right, yet. For instance, I feel the ovens would be better on the right-hand side. And the open space in the center feels as if it should be filled in a little more. But it is hard to say from the pictures that we have. And yes, I would not interrupt the left counter top with yet another sink. If a sink is needed in that vicinity, move the island sink that we can't talk you out of. It can be accessed from the drink area, if it was on the left side of the island. Alternatively, get rid of the sink in the drink area and turn it into a bar tap. Now that makes more sense!

We lived in Florida. Wood moves with the seasons, so glue would not allow the movement. Since we laid the floors ourselves in 1997, am working from memory here. We had plywood subfloor down then stacked the flooring in the air conditioned house for several weeks. We face nailed only. I really wanted an antique look and we used cut nails. All those are hammered in by hand. After all the flooring was installed, I mixed two colors of MinWax stains, Puritan Pine and one other ( memory fails me) in a one gallon paint can (new empty cans are sold by paint stores and Lowe’s) so my color would be consistent. No one else can be in the house for over a week while the staining and oiling are being done. Authentic Pine Floors gave me a formula for the finish I mixed in another unused gallon paint can, but I think I would use straight tung oil now. Tung oil must have five or six applications with sufficient drying time between coats. This cannot be rushed. We used tung oil on the cherry floors we laid two years ago in the kitchen of our current house and love it. Our Florida house had carpet upstairs for noise control, so I estimate we had over 2000 square feet of pine floors. My sister used the same material for her house in the Midwest 16 years ago and the floors are still beautiful. My daughter has about 3000 square feet of the same flooring, finished the same way. We all have dogs and active lives. Some people age their floors by dropping chains onto the surface, spreading sharp gravel on the floor and walking around with work boots to scratch the floors, or you can (with extreme caution) roll burning logs onto the hearth area to put a few scorch marks. Then stain and oil the floors. We did none of that at any of our three houses, preferring to let the floors show our history. All wood moves with humidity. It is not much, though. It certainly is not huge gaps.