There are quite a few plants that will tolerate sun OR shade, such as Heuchera and Columbine, which should work out just fine. I have both of these in full sun, but lots of people grow these in the shade. I would think anything that says it does better if shaded from hot afternoon sun, would do well there, such as Astilbe, Lychnis, Lobelia, and some types of Euphorbia. Because the time of year that they will be receiving full sun is early in the year, when the sun is not as strong, they should be fine. I'm sure there are many other things that would work there, these are just the ones I could think of off the top of my head. Hope this helps, Bonnie

I planted a Dawn Redwood 20 years ago in my backyard. Today it is 60 feet tall and last year produced hundreds of cones. I have about 100 seedlings that range in size from 1 inch to 12 inches in 5 months of growth. I had about 10% germination. I planted in several different soil conditions and different sun locations. I have concluded that full sun with daily watering is the most effective combination for growth. Seedlings growing directly next to each other have different growth rates. I have no significant browning of leaves in full sun. I will begin planting the strongest seedlings in the ground next year and continue pot growing the remaining until they have enough root structure to support them. My original tree (purchased as a 1 year old seedling) started slowly and then after about 5 years exploded with a 5 foot a year growth. It did not seed this year much to my disappointment. I think I have found the right combination of growth factors through trial and error. I am hoping to get another chance soon. For those who wish to grow only a few trees I suggest ordering seedlings from a grower. They will have the 1st year of growth out of the way and will be much more likely to survive.

Hostas and ferns will be okay on the north side against the foundation. I have Azaleas planted against my foundation on the north side, and Hostas actually in my Southern exposure, which has mature trees to the East, South, and West of me, so not a lot of direct sunlight, some filtered, and some pretty dark shade. Another good shrub that gets large, but you can get smaller versions if you want, is Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia). I recommend it to everyone in Oklahoma because it does so well here compared to other Hydrangeas. The leaves are very large, oakleaf shape as name indicates, huge conical white blooms in mid to late spring, that gently turn to a pink shade. The foliage turns red in the fall, and the winter branches are interesting, too, because they peel to a rusty red shade. It is pretty much an all around outstanding plant for Oklahoma. Doesn't require as much water as the other Hydrangeas either, once it is established. I planted it the first summer I lived in my house in 1999, and I have never regreted it. Some say it is slow to establish, but mine grew very quickly. Maybe because I purchased it in a 5-gallon container so it was pretty good size to begin with. It can grow to about 7' tall by 9' wide in fabulous conditions, but will generally run about 7' side and 5' tall. You can place some medium size hostas in front of it, perhaps variegated to add some interest, and small hostas and ferns in front of them. Japanese Painted fern is very pretty. I grow a few Hostas, 'Sum and Substance' which is a monster and has lime green foliage with leaves up to 18-24" long. It can take more light than the Blue Hostas and variegated hostas. Anything with the bolder lime green colors can generally tolerate more light. I also have 'Blue Angel' which is also a monster with powdery blue foliage. The leaves aren't as big as S&S but the plant itself gets huge. Give this one a pretty shady place as with all blues. There are hundreds and hundreds of Hostas available. Check out Plant Delight Nursery which has a nice selection, just to give yourself an idea of different textures, sizes, and colors. I don't really grow ferns except for the Holly fern which has done so well for me for about 10 years also. Doesn't need as much water. Hellebores, Epimediums, variegated Solomon's Seal, Jack in the Pulpits, Campanulas, Meadow Rues, Heucheras, Tiarellas, Toad Lilies, some Clematis, some lilies, will all do well in part shade. The only problem with shade around a lot of homes is tree roots. Hard to dig and prepare soil - amend, amend, amend with compost, chicken or cow manure, etc. But, the roots will eventually grow back. The plants I've mentioned will likely co-exist just fine with some tree roots. Your Elephant Ears will take some sun very nicely. More than a lot of folks think. They are Colocasias in the Aroid family. A better bet is Alocasias which look very similar but have a more upright habit, sold in many of the nurseries as Upright Elephant Ear. The foliage is a bit shinier, and they get every bit as big without needing as much water. Generally speaking, in a southern exposure you will get more sun, in the West you will get a good amount of sun along with heat. The north and east sides offer more protection from our relentless summer suns. However, that can change with things such as how large your trees are, how much shade they cast, the closer you plant to your house will afford more shade. Dawn suggests that you have your soil tested to see how much you need and what your soil needs, Consider mulching your plants, too. Fertilizers? I'm a lazy gardener so I use Espoma fertilizer products which you can just add at planting time or sprinkle on top in the spring. Some needs to be added monthly and some will last 2 or 3 months. If you want to add some butterfly and hummingbird attracting plants, let me know, What fun! You have pretty much a blank slate to work with. And.....welcome to the forum! Susan Here is a link that might be useful: Oakleaf Hydrangea

jeanerz12 I was hoping someone was going to chime in here for you but since they haven't I will give you my take on it. The timer does and doesn't start at sunrise. The intensity of the sun is strongest between 10am and 4pm (depending on latitude) and decreases quite rapidly both in the early and late hours. So every hour between 10 and 4 would count for 1 hour but the hours before and after (for simplicity) only account for about 1/2hr. Therefore in your case from 6 to 10 you would have 2hrs and 10-12 would be 2 for a total of 4 so you could class yourself part sun. Now the next factor to throw in is where you live. Sun from 10-2 in Southern California is way stronger than up here in Southern Canada. So if I was to put a part sun plant in that location it might, depending on species, not be enough while in Texas be just fine. So in my case I research each plant and see what light requirements people say they need. An example is zinnia's from what I have read is they do best in at least 7 hours of sunlight. Now this came from a person well south of me so I say they need 8hrs here. I have them planted in a location that gets about 6.5-7 hrs and they are doing 'ok'. Another is some of my hosta's. They say they want part to full shade, basically 3 or less hours. Mine get sun from 7:30am - 2pm and do fine. Hope this is as clear as mud for you. SCG