Small amount of leaf drop before moving tree indoors
Q (Zone 7a, Washington, DC)
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Q (Zone 7a, Washington, DC)
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Indoor coleus leaf drop.
Comments (13)Sorry -- I should've been more specific. I typically let the plant dry out between waterings. However, I'm up in my dorm over the week and only at home (where I'd been keeping the coleus until this week) on the weekends. I tend to overwater on the weekends, but usually it still does dry out of the week, and I don't typically let it get super-saturated. Also, when I noticed the leaves HAD dropped, the soil was quite dry, and I had watered it quite a lot just four days prior. Although honestly, I might be exagerating the amount of water I've been giving it -- I'm rather bad at gauging that and I'm rather paranoid about overwatering, so I do tend to assume I'm more prone to overdoing it than not. As for the flies, it's possible some are fungus gnats. I've seen a ton of gnats earlier this year, both at home and up at my university, just outside, so I don't know if they're fungal gnats or what. I've noticed a few kinds -- some with small, black bodies, and a few larger reddish ones. I've been killing the little black ones pretty aggresively. The red ones -- not so much. They're actually fast, and they've been leaving the plants alone anyway. I haven't actually noticed that many flies till this week. I had a lot on an aralia i got last year and, even after repotting it and cleaning the roots (which I've heard is generally not recommendable, but pesticide wasn't affecting these things in the least.) i still catch a few hanging around. I don't know if these gnats can lay eggs that are dormant till they get wet, or if they're just drawn to moisture (My mother sort of drenched the coleus as soon as she saw what shape it was in, which is mostly why it's been far, far wetter than usual this week). In any case, they were mostly leaving the plant alone until it defoliated, from what I could tell....See MoreI can't stop the jade tree leaf drop! Help! (pictures inside)
Comments (38)carrieabalch This thread has a posted comment that reaches seven years ago prior to your post Your northern corner of the US would allow the blinds to be open during the day the lack of winter rain fall from out side could be replaced with tap water that's been allowed to set at room temp for 24 hours or more. ummmmm I don't know either but how does anyone get rain water from the outside to three floors up inside? Yes green is good but it is a bit on the stringy side sparse,thin and slightly on the side of etiolated. I imagine some pruning of your jades weaker growth and cutting would be in order, as to where you'll find some ideas as to where or what to cut could be a little difficult to look up after all the other soil mixing and idea searching you'll be doing. mind if I use your pic ? Start with the red lines and cut away as best as you can if you happen to find some info on your relentless 1000's and 1000's of jade threads You may also want to attempt to root the cutting as as well which also has 1000's and 1000's of searchable info on how to do as well. Side note which has very very little to do with any of your 10000's of searching information results The pot is a bit to big....See MoreDo you acclimate, prepare your trees before coming indoors?
Comments (31)LOL mike. :D I'm sure your mites were the same as mine! Two-spot spider mites are the bane of everyone! Predators must be used correctly. The most common and effective predator mites are tropical. They like high humidity (70% to 90%) and temps (80~ F). If you can't provide them with these conditions, you have to go for a different species of mite, and up until recently the other species were hard to find and even more expensive than the tropical ones. You see, the sucking mites gain their moisture from the plants they're biting. The predators don't have that moisture source and can dry out fast. You should also buy many predators and blitz the mites for fast control. 1000 predators for 4 trees at the first detection of mites was definitely overkill, but I prefer overkill to underkill. The ones I used last winter were from Nature's Control. They sell a "triple threat" package with three different species, on the theory that at least one species can match your environment. I bought a humidity meter and turned up the humidifier and the thermostat for about three weeks, and that seemed to be long enough to do it. The predators I applied to the raspberries this summer came from Evergreen Growers Supply. I bought 2500 Amblyseius fallacis and 100 Stethorus punctillum and released them in the yard. The Stethorus punctillum is a tiny (and unbelievably cute) black ladybird beetle, while the Amblyseius fallacis is a type of predatory mite that can handle a low-humidity situation, like what I had in the back yard. They don't work as fast as the tropical predators, which is why I used a ton and supplemented them with the beetles, but in theory they can establish a colony in the yard that can survive a Kentucky winter and depress pest mites next year, too. Indoors, in a controlled environment where I can raise the humidity easily, I would go for the tropical predators, which work fast and are cool to watch. If you are concerned about mites, they would probably work well in your greenhouse!...See MoreLemon tree dropping healthy leaves after being brought indoors
Comments (25)Hi all, I am new to this forum, I have read this thread, but would like to double check my information to make certain my little lemon tree is doing okay. Briefly: I purchased the tree in the spring of 2011. I live north of Chicago. The tree spent the spring, summer and autumn on my side deck with a southern exposure;I have many mature trees (50+ years), and this area gets the most sunlight. The tree seemed to do fine while outside, I brought it inside before the frost. My house has floor-to-ceiling windows, so I placed the tree in the same exposure, except indoors. It probably receives strong sunlight probably 8 hours per day on sunny days. Today is 21 January, and recently just about all of the tree's leaves began to shrivel. They did not turn yellow, but they did die (become crunchy) and began to fall off. I was very alarmed, but after reading this thread, I believe the issue may be that the soil/roots were cold. I do not presently have a thermometer (it is after 1 am and we just had 9' of snow!) but the container does feel quite cool. The tree has never had any fruit, just one marble sized green lemon that I have not removed and some white buds, which I have also not removed. Here are my questions: 1) It appears the tree will lose all of its leaves, but that does not mean the tree is in danger of dying, correct? 2) If I am to understand the problem with the contrast of sunny leaves/cooler soil/roots, this problem can be rectified by either keeping the tree in the sunlight and warming the soil (with xmas lights, for example), or by moving the tree out of the bright sunlight so it can "wait" until going back outside in the spring. So, I can move the tree to a less sunny location and it will be fine until the spring, given all other things remain the same? I should add that I take pains not to overwater, and the room where the tree is located is quite dry with little humidity. I have used good soil and, as a bonus, since I have pigeons, I have also used some of the pigeon droppings into the soil. I have done this with great success with my other plants and in my garden, and with this tree during the warmer months when it was outside. Thanks in advance for answering my questions, I really appreciate it. I just want the tree to be happy and to be able to overwinter indoors with as little stress as possible. Thanks again, Bill B....See MoreQ (Zone 7a, Washington, DC)
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