I understand the allure of the Birch and, when I was in the states tried a few as Bonsai. Then realized there was a reason why you never see one as Bonsai. Sorry but true, they just don't cut it. Leaf size is almost impossible to reduce so, on a smaller sized tree it looks strange. They, like wild cherry, are just one big pest magnet, every pest and desiese loves to attack them and will. Of course you can always begin again because even the tree dies it will put out suckers. Sorry to bust your bubble, you may have it a few years but that's about it. Bob

Species is Betula papyrifera (commonly: paper birch) Pleasing enough to the eye, for sure, but it does look like a spanking brand new planting to me and leaves me wondering if the trees are still B&B. Was it a good choice other than for temporary eye appeal? The proof will be in how they look 5 years from now, and I say that because they are known to be particularly sensitive to the air pollutant SO2 (sulfur dioxide), which there is no scarcity of in the area and probably why they don't grow among the hundreds of tree species in Central Park. Al

So it seems the consensus is that removing these roots, or some of these roots, will have an affect on the tree. It is not clear as to whether removal of all of the roots would have a negative impact. If roots are removed, I can expect that the tree may suffer, but without a doubt, it will be aggressive in its root growth to compensate for the loss. I would find another area to garden in if I had a better one. Native plants have been suggested. But my love is with hostas and, as my mother-in-law used to say, "where there is a will, there is a way!" I think I have decided to remove one, if not two, roots at most. I will initially plant some small hostas with some of them in small spin out bags. We can see what next year brings. When it comes to gardening, I have learned is that one can never really count on one's plan coming to fruition. My hope is that as I move further away from the tree, I will find less roots. But I am not counting on that! As I have found my passion in garden, my property has been a disappointment and a struggle in many ways. But so far I have been up for the challenge. Bill, you mentioned frequent watering is required under birch and maple trees. So true! The area becomes bone dry so quickly. dbarron, I agree that the roots of the birch are very clever. They just know where the moisture is. So watering just the plants doesn't work. We know that now, but we didn't know it in the early stages of growth of this tree. But hostas are not out for the long run! No way! "A really tough spot you have there nhl." Thank you Bill. I gladly accept some empathy in this situation! Ken, I won't forget---water and fertilize the tree along with the plants! I am not sure why you were "wondering more about the fact that your tree looks telephone poled ... i wonder where the root flare is ..." Embothrium, birch trees work with gardens for 15 years! Wish I know that before! As for the other birch tree that appears damaged, I am not so sure that it was the added soil that caused stress to this tree. That tree was mature when we purchased the house 35 years ago. I think it is an aging tree and the ice storm we had several years ago broke some of its branches and stressed it out. (To the right is the white paper birch. To the left is the "damaged" tree. "I find it very unlikely that any municipality would tell property owners they cannot cut down hazard or otherwise failing trees." First of all, the city hires its own workers and they remove city trees on personal property. I don't believe the city considers this tree a hazard. They might consider it a failing tree, but they will not remove it until the decline is more advanced. And when that day comes---get this---I must replace the tree and choose from a limited list of trees of similar size! Those are the rules! Thanks all. You've be very kind to share your thoughts and knowledge.

Don't try and amend the soil. You can't add enough to make much of a difference and trying to work it into the soil amongst all those roots without damaging them would be a Herculean task!! Go to a local nursery/garden center and see what groundcovers they offer that fit your situation. A coupe of natives that come to mind are dwarf manzanitas, Ceanothus gloriosus or griseus or prostrate coyote bush. I also like creeping raspberry, Rubus calycinoides. And a variety of cranesbill or hardy geraniums or creeping thymes could work as well. Purchase in as small a size as you can find and then much lightly in between with your amendment mix.