Custom blend - for hardwood floor? I am VERY confused and undecided!
auntieann1
3 years ago
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Sabrina Balsky Interior Design
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoauntieann1 thanked Sabrina Balsky Interior DesignRelated Discussions
Hardwood floor refinishing
Comments (30)Preparation... This is the first I have done so I probably went over board a bit, but I am OK with it and will be able to eliminate a step or two on the remaining floors and stairway. A good set of knee pads was key to some comfort. :-) I wouldn't do this without them. 1. Used a palm sander to knock off built up carpet pad stain/remnants. 2. Used denatured alcohol and steel wool to remove old finish. Actually made 3 passes over the floor this way. Will only make two at most on the next floor, lesson learned. 3. Hand sanded entire floor to open up the wood. 4. Wiped on stain over the entire floor. Waited 24 hours, possibly should have waited longer but it worked. 5. Applied Waterlox sealer/finish Waited 24 hours - had fan set in window to remove fumes and was really required for the drying/curing process for next coat. Had fan running for all coats pointing out and creating cross draft over floor. 6. Applied another coat of sealer/finish Waited 24 hours. 7. Applied what I thought was going to be final coat of a Waterlox Satin finish. This didn't turn out exactly as I hoped as my old uneven floors posed a bit of challenge. I also made the mistake of overworking the finish in a couple of areas - lesson learned and Waterlox company warned of doing this. 8. Applied final coat. I spoke with Waterlox rep on this, I had two options, 1 was to sit it out and see if my streaks would go away with time(they said they probably would), second option was to re-coat. I chose to recoat and did so using a 50/50 mix of the sealer/finish and the satin finish. We love it. It has been about 36 hours now and it has a slight amber tint to it and is more better in appearance than we expected. We will do the 4 coats on the remaining floors as we did on this Living Room Floor....See MoreAnyone install hardwood to match existing hardwood?
Comments (20)Redroze, I'm just getting back online and seeing your questions, so I'll try to answer what I can. My new floor in the LR/DR was not pre-finished, it was all site-finished. I did put a pre-finished floor down in my office (no pics, sorry) because I work from home and didn't have time to be without my office for the week it would have taken to have floor sanded etc. The pre-finished does have a different feel to it than the site-finished. I wouldn't say it's grooved, just a more defined difference in between the individual planks. The office doesn't adjoin any other room, except the tiled hallway, so I didn't worry so much about the wood being different there. I see from your pictures what you mean about running the planks the same way and wanting to be sure things don't look odd. One idea might be to take up some of your FR planks, like the first 12 or so, and then put them back down interwoven with the new planks. That way there's not a clear line in between the 2 rooms, but rather a more gradual blending. Here's another couple of pictures, this time of my family room. The first one is a before shot of the hardwood floor + a rug-like carpet. The floor created a frame around the carpet. I had the carpet taken up and new hardwood put in where the carpet originally was, then everything sanded and refinished. You absolutely can't tell where the old wood was vs where the new started. In this case, the new is random width because it opens directly to the kitchen (as opposed to the LR/DR which is all the same width). So, one house, all new site-finished floors in the LR & DR, all new pre-finished floor in the office, original/refinished in the kitchen, and half&half refinished + original in the family room. Boy did we have dust! Hope this helps! New:...See MoreDoes this exist? Hardwood floor help.
Comments (13)OT to technicolor - I wouldn't personally use ash or red oaks for a countertop since they are open pored woods. They'd need a lot of finish to fill the pores well enough to clean up well in a kitchen. White oak might be a better choice. Jillius - Look at maple with a tung oil finish. I am not sure how tung oil is on a floor as far as wear, but it is a wonderful finish that has little or no yellowing. We use it as a wood finish on bowls and furniture, and it adds almost no color, but it is a small molecule that sinks well into the wood to bring out the grain. It is also relatively forgiving in that if you have to refinish an area it is easy to blend the new with the old. I imagine that you would have to get the floor unfinished and have it finished for you since I doubt it would come prefinished with tung oil....See MoreWill this be the avocado of hardwood flooring?
Comments (57)I am in the same boat. I definitely dont want a high gloss floor. My preference is 5 inch wide lighter wood but not yellow. I just can't seem to find what I want. Market seems to focus on the wide planks now and I find it very farm housy... Above all, I want a low VOC and lowest possible formaldehyde I can get for my $6/sqfoot or so budget. Your post with the dust on the matte floors is interesting. Its the first I have heard it. I wanted to install Monarch's winterfold and then was talked out of it by my installer. Then I liked the skyros wood from California classics Mediterranean line but they discontinued that. Now I have to choose between Kerrew or Matisse Collioure line. The demo starts this Friday and after looking for 6 months, I dont have a floor I love....See MorePatricia Colwell Consulting
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoauntieann1 thanked Patricia Colwell Consultingauntieann1
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