I installed a Teak wood countertop composed of individual 1" x 1"s in my kitchen 40 years ago and treat it with teak oil occasionally. It has lasted very well, but occasionally it gets black marks if you leave a wet sponge or a wet pot on it for a day or so. It is also subject to getting burned black rings on it from placing very hot pots on it. Then I get out my sander and shortly the marks are gone so I treat it again with teak oil. A few years ago I built another kitchen and in that case used an easier method than screwing together teak 1"x1"s. I used teak marine decking for the countertops. They are about 3/8" thick and about 2" wide. They work well and are easy to install. In both cases I laid an approximately 16" wide section of ceramic tile on each side of both the sink and stove to provide a surface resistant to heat and water. The teak is beautiful, repairable and obviously quite lasting.

We did concrete for our kitchen and large island. We poured in place. Ours we left rustic because it fit our style but concrete can be finished in many different looks. The edge forms we used were the square edge but there were other options available. I love ours. We just got our CO today so haven't "used" them yet but they sealed very nicely and any liquid just beads up.

I agree with Ranton, assuming I understand that you've already decided on the cabinet choice? If you have and you've got the style and stain/paint picked out, I'd do the counters 2nd. I'd do the floors 3rd. Flooring, unless "it's in your face" attention grabbing, tends to just be the anchor and gets relegated to almost being overlooked. If you only want the blaring floor to take center stage,(that's your main objective) then highlight that and let everything else just be a supporting role for the floor. That being said, if you have a lot of movement in the graining of the wood (cabinet), you don't want to fight "movement with movement". So let's say you have a really intense movement in the wood grain that will show through the stain, I'd quiet it down on the granite and/or pick a quartz that is quieter to the degree that the cabinets are already "speaking". ** One thing, are you looking for a certain look or style? Can you tell us that if you know? The reason I ask is that depending on what look you want to achieve be it for example, sleek/modern/minimalist, Tuscan/Mediterranean, French country, Craftsman/earthy colors etc., you get the idea. So write down some basic words that you think of when people say (your) XYZ style. From that, when you are looking at each material or pattern, what is the first word that comes to mind when you see that pattern/color/style in the granite yard or flooring? If what comes to mind belongs to another style/look, you may be about to combine things that don't belong in the same "box". Something to think about...... Oh, definitely choose the granite then choose the backsplash color/pattern/material after that. Regarding flooring, ask your DH the one thing that he wants to first be noticed in your kitchen. I.E. if someone where to come for a visit after it's completed and says they love XYZ about it. What element would be choose as the strongest thing that stands out when you walk into your kitchen? I know on some of these design shows when it comes to pattern be it fabric, upholstery, wallpaper, whatever, they suggest that the "scale" of each element not be the same. Like if you had a large print on a fabric in whatever color you'd want to choose a smaller scale on the other elements in the room so they don't compete. If you've got several large (busy) 'in your face' patterns in the room, they compete with each other. The result is that the eye bounces around constantly from large pattern (i.e. movement) to the next large/busy/heavy movement pattern. What happens is a feeling of vibration and competition between all the elements that is not restful to the eye or mind. I know I'm jumping around here. All these things are coming to mind that might help you so I'm just throwing it out there before I think of something else. Question: Are your and DH's style the same or different? If they are different, there was an HGTV show that integrated the two (sorry, can't think of it or the host's name) but there were some good points in how the host did it. Good luck and let us know how it goes. I don't know if I've helped here or not, but hopefully it will spark some thought processes that might help you.

I agree with LWO--cooktop on the back wall. Also agree about time spent on each kitchen task. (The rest of his post seems a little hyperbolic.) You can then center the sink on the island, and prep to the left, across from the cooktop. The work triangle is contained in an area the size of a normal kitchen ;), and since the sink, DW, and trash pull-out are centered on the island, you have the option to reduce the widths of the drawers on each end, if finding a counter slab that wide proves difficult. I moved the ovens out of the corner (see pic at bottom for possible corner storage options), and drew the cabinets on the back wall deeper than standard, since you have such a wide work aisle. That will also provide more counter space, and if you're using a custom cabinet builder, you can have deeper drawers, for extra storage space. I'd suggest making the bar sink at least 18" wide, so it doubles as a prep sink when you have helpers in the kitchen. I reduced the size of the sink in the butler's pantry, to 18", and added a full-height ROTS pantry unit in there. You could also have a pull-out pantry to the right of the ovens, depending on which corner storage option is chosen. I made the counter deeper in the pantry and omitted the jog to recess the fridge. Cabinet widths are approximate and need to be verified. GW discussions--deeper counters GW discussions--deeper drawers