How late is too late to take a dahlia cutting?
Comments (8)
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years agoAleena Perez
3 years agoRelated Discussions
How late is too late...Pruning Butterfly Bushes
Comments (3)Maybe better pruning a little late than too soon. I pruned mine back too early when we were having weather in the 70's back in March and almost killed them. The warm weather went on for so long that I thought it was going to stay that way (it didn't). Anyway, I agree with horster and I'd say to prune yours and have blooms a little bit later than usual, but they will bloom. Cathy...See MoreIs it too late to take cuttings from a fig tree
Comments (5)Cuttings can be taken anytime but the rooting may require different methods for green cuttings vs. the dormant cuttings. The best time for fig cuttings is when the plant is dormant from fall (after dormancy) to spring just before bud break. It does not mean that cuttings taken after bud break wil not root at all but will require additional care. You did not mention the current state of bud opening. Take a chance and take some cuttings. Try rooting and most probaly some will root. If not, it wil not be a big loss and try again in late fall with fully dormant cuttings....See MoreHow late is too late to plant bare roots?
Comments (12)I found this on Piviones Riviere's website. WHAT IS THE BEST PERIOD TO PLANT ? How do you plant a peony? To obtain the best results in peony cultivation, pay very special attention to the planting process. *Planting bare roots should be done between September and mid-March. *It is better to plant peonies in the autumn so that the root system can grow before the leaves come out. *Planting can be done during the winter period even with frost during the night as long as it disappears during the daytime. *After March, due to the growing of leaves and vegetation, it is not recommended to plant bare root peonies. *If you want to plant later, we offer cultivated plants in containers that you can buy either from our nursery or at the flower shows we go to. *Tip : In case of frost when you receive our plants, place the parcel in a cool area  a cellar or a garage - and open the parcel. The individually packed plants can remain for a month in their packaging without any harm....See MoreHow late is too late in zone 5?
Comments (39)Summersrhythm, Houses built before refrigeration/electricity often had an unheated room off the basement in which perishable food items were stored to keep them cold and hydrated since these cellars were humid as well as cold. Iceboxes were kept in the kitchen for perishables like fresh meat, eggs and milk to keep at hand for ready availability. Root/fruit cellars were used for storage of perishables that had a longer shelf life but needed cold, but not as cold as an icebox. Foods were stored in them such as: apples, potatoes, carrots, cabbage, winter squash, cheese, cured meats, and bad little boys...just kidding! Put a couple bushels of local, fresh picked McIntosh or Cortland apples in a root cellar at harvest time. Leave then there until they have turned fully ripe when they actually have a glow and feel like they have been rubbed with olive oil. This could be as late as December/January. They're slippery! Now, make applesauce from them, no sugar needed, just a little nutmeg and/or cinnamon. Freeze or can the sauce. You NEVER tasted a better, super healthy, more delicious applesauce in your life!...See MoreAleena Perez
3 years ago
cicivacation
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoAleena Perez
3 years agoThank you for the advice!
So there are no tubers to save though. They have been dead so long they were hollow upon digging. All I have is some shoots that popped up before the tubers died that I've made into cuttings. The cuttings are doing well indoors under a 1000w grow light and in controlled heat. Three of them I started back in July are about 30 inches tall so far. and when they get big enough I'm going to set them outside in the mild winter weather we get (50 degree days, and 20 degree nights) and let them tuber up, then store them to grow on the right schedule next year. So keeping them alive inside isn't a concern for my set up. I basically turned my basement into a greenhouse because the weather here is so terrible and the growing season so short.
My main question was about what size of stalk is too big to become a cutting, not "too late" as in season. Most all the stalks that popped up stopped before they were 4 inches big and only had two or three leaf sets.
This one in particular came up about 3 inches, then got snapped off by hail. Then it grew two new stalks on each side of the break that got to about 4 inches tall each. I wasn't sure if that was too big to reproduce or not. Or if I should have taken each stalk individually? We had an early snow that forced me into action so as of right now it is potted up all as one with the two stalks attached to the main one and the main one in the dirt.
I have a couple of ideas on why my tubers failed and what to adjust next year. I don't have a big issue with drainage or the soil staying wet. I just worry about the bottom of the 24 inch tall bed draining because of the clay underneath. But the top 6-8 inches I regularly dig into to check. It can get a good deep soaking and then be bone dry 6 inches down two days later. And after a soil test at the local college I can say for sure the nitrogen levels are actually low, so no way they got burnt there. The soil I bought for my raised beds was pretty depleted and all the organic matter I used was composted before adding.
I have three living tubers out of almost 20. One is outside and struggled with the heat but is doing well (Shiloh Noelle). I probably won't get a flower this year but I should have tubers to divide. The two other tubers that made it were the ones I moved inside right away to experiment with. They got the same level of moisture to their soil as the ones outside so I know I wasnt overwatering. I moved inside a tuber from a different seller, who I got most tubers from this year, at the same time and it rotted in the same conditions. Which makes me wonder HARD about the possibility of a fungus causing the dry rot. The soil PH was also higher than it should of been and I'll be adding acidifier to the beds before next season gets going, I'm sure that didn't help. I think they mainly failed because most of June had 60 degree nights and 110 degree F days, and they weren't shaded, causing a lot of stress. There is also ZERO rainfall except maybe a sprinkle once every 6 weeks or so (and a surprise hail storm one night). The shade cloth canopy I added late wasn't doing enough on its own for the young guys and I should have ignored certain advice and mulched after they popped up to keep the soil cool and moist. I do have high hopes for next year as the indoor ones are doing so well I'm convinced it's the elements and not me.
User
3 years ago
Aleena PerezOriginal Author