Absolutley ! Mine have been in and out for the past 3 weeks, way before my Magnolia opened up and it is still just starting to. It was 38 degrees last night which tells you that I still get very cold temps. I would put your tree out at day, and bring it in at night if you know temps are going to be below the 50's at night, until you get your tree acclimated to the outdoors for the next couple of weeks. I would wash all those leaves off, take no chances, since no one can ever be sure you do not have mites excpet you yourself, unless you examine the leaves as I suggested and even then you could miss them. But to me, that is a classic sign of mite damage since I am very familiar with these critters and how they affect my trees, just like yours. Your leaves also look speckled which is another sign. This is what I have learned from my trees over the years. Too much water being held in the soil causes leaves to YELLOW, first symptom, and then drop. It seems to me you are loosing green leaves, no? You can loose green leaves that easily fall taht are fully green and hydrated, NOT DEHYDRATED from the leaf sten, where it meets with leaf and or with the trunk, if your leaves suffered a shock from a lack of water beyond wilt. If the leaves to your tree are slowly loosing firmness, to the point when you bend them and they do not snap, then your roots are not taking up moisture over time and sometimes they will be hard to pull off of trunk. This is due to the inability of your tree to take up moisture either from poor temps, salts in your mix, extremely poor soil, rotted roots and so on. Sucking pests can also cause render citrus leaves not rigid. Poor root function can cause leaf distortion as can pests, extreme change in enviroment, too much fertilizer, too much of a certain nutrient and not enough, ect.. My first form of action would be to put it outside, check for pest and treat as if you have them if you can't, and look at the root zone as suggested my Silica. Good luck and please don't wait..:-) If your branches and trunk are still green, then you have a great chance of keeping those trees alive if you try some of our suggestions here. I have a tree that has been bare since last fall, but still fully alive. Mike

I have read most of these post...yet I still do not seem to see an answer for me...I have lemons, maybe a handful that have been growing for almost 10 months! and still are green as grass....Are they ripe? Can I eat them? Or do I need to just say "Hey, it will take a year and a half to get a yellow lemon?"..it is for sure a meyer lemon plant..*sigh* Oh I live in mid to north Georgia..Highs are low 90's and cools are 68ish..

Actually, I didn't make that implication. I mentioned that foliar applications of nutrients have a place and can be effective, usually within a very narrow set of parameters, and to varying degrees depending on plant material, what nutrient is deficient, what you're using, how it's applied, often WHEN it's applied. A grower's program might be described as 'willy nilly' when the grower uses foliar applications of nutrients w/o answers to critical questions and especially when they don't even understand the questions, the answers to which determine efficacy. That's simply flying blind, and makes willy nilly is a fair adjective. Foliar aps of nutrients can't/don't work unless there is actually a deficiency of the nutrients you are supplying. In the case where multiple nutrients are being supplied, it's possible that a deficiency mighty be corrected at the same time a toxicity is being introduced because you're supplying a nutrient that is already amply available, which means that more of same has only the potential to limit. A well-reasoned approach to nutrition would find the grower answering a number of questions related to the potential to improve things or add to the number of factors that are potentially limiting. Absent tissue and or soil analysis, if foliar applications have a notable value when used on plants that can actually absorb nutrients from foliar applications, it lies more in its ability to act as an aid in identifying a deficiency than actually relieving one, but the act of applying a number of nutrients all at the same time eliminates any potential help from that quarter because when all is done, you won't likely have fixed the issue and still won't know which nutrient applied. Linda Chalker-Scott is a horticultural scientist with a PhD. She is probably most noted for helping the growing community by debunking horticultural myths, one of which is the assertion that foliar applications are an effective/efficient way to provide plant nutrition. How well and how thoroughly we qualify our offerings with facts rather than observations/statements that are often very subjective or biased serves not only to illustrate our grasp of the topic, it also serves to keep our credibility intact. When we actually have the best interest of the grower at the forefront and are providing reliable, well-qualified information, what sells it is our credibility. I've always limited myself to operating only within the limits of my knowledge, which is why whenever anything I say is challenged, I have all the facts I need at my disposal to back my offering. I never have to rely on selling my offering by using statements like "It works for me" or it might not be the best way, but ........ Dr Scott takes on the topic of Foliar Feeding, here. If you take the time to peruse her offering, you'll find her and my qualifying information amazingly close to the same, so it's not as though I'm a lone voice in the wilderness on this topic or operating beyond the limits of my knowledge. The crux of the issue is, it's very unlikely you'll gain any real traction via foliar feeding, and more likely you'll end up worse off than when you started, even if the plant ends up looking prettier (I qualified that statement above, too). I hope Dr Scott's offering helps us get to the point where we needn't keep belaboring this and similar points. Al

Every year we get fantastical explanations for chlorosis in the fall. All anyone has to do is stick their head out the window and look for fall colors. If you see Maple trees turning red and yellow your citrus will have chlorosis soon enough, unless you supplement them with artificial light. At least a dozen maybe more reasons this is clearly not a salt build-up. Toronto Canada gets only 150 hours of sunlight in October. A small fraction of that if you are growing in the window. Yes Jeff you need a grow light and a grow tent if possible. It is that time of year. Sonnet 73: That time of year thou mayst in me behold BY WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE That time of year thou mayst in me behold When yellow leaves, or none, or few, do hang Upon those boughs which shake against the cold, Bare ruin'd choirs, where late the sweet birds sang. In me thou see'st the twilight of such day As after sunset fadeth in the west, Which by and by black night doth take away, Death's second self, that seals up all in rest. In me thou see'st the glowing of such fire That on the ashes of his youth doth lie, As the death-bed whereon it must expire, Consum'd with that which it was nourish'd by. This thou perceiv'st, which makes thy love more strong, To love that well which thou must leave ere long.