My reply is based upon the following facts. 1. There is no connection from the local power grid to your cabin. 2. The person that originally wired this cabin, followed the standard practices of the trade and the work conforms to the electrical code, including.......proper grounding of all aspects of the system. 3. And that the existing wiring system in the cabin was set up to receive 120/240 volt AC grid power at some point in the future, if it became available. The way I see it, you have two choices. You can either use a "whole house" transfer switch that will allow you to choose between the existing solar power supply or the genset. OR...... you can simply disconnect the wires from the solar power supply and tape them off inside the main panel for your cabin (fuse box/breaker box). You don't need to actually remove the wire from the fuse box itself. This would allow you to easily reconnect the solar power supply system in the future, should the need arise. The purpose of a transfer switch is to provide 100% isolation between two differing sources of power. So, one way or the other, this isolation must take place. IF you don't isolate the solar system from the genset, then the genset will feed power back into the solar supply. Damage may be done but even if it does not do damage, the solar system is a potential loss of wattage from your genset and you could also have a fire and electrical hazard. Once you disconnect the wires from the solar supply unit, you can install the correct wiring between the fuse box and wherever you are placing the genset. If your panel is a standard residential fuse or circuit breaker panel, then it requires 240 volts plus a neutral wire to connect to the genset. You also need to make sure that all grounding issues are taken care of. Some how, your genset must be grounded to the cabin's system. If you are not sure of how to go about this, then hire a licensed electrician to perform the work. Better to be safe, than electrocuted. You also need to consider that many gensets use about a gallon of gasoline per hour of run-time. If it was me, I would be looking at a diesel genset so that I could install a lockable fuel oil tank in the 250 to 500 gallon size on the property. The thought of transporting several five gallon cans of gas in my car wouldn't thrill me. No matter how hard you try not to, you will spill fuel from those containers. Gasoline is a highly inflammable and explosive fuel. You don't want those fumes inside your vehicle. Having a permanent tank that is refueled by a company with a tank truck has many benefits. Plenty of reserve fuel that is far more stable than gas and no worries about refueling a hot engine.

I'd say it's a mark of marginal workmanship. They didn't install a clamp to secure the pipe to the stud just before it came through the drywall. Functionaly, it's not a big deal, as long as they didn't miss enough other clamping so that you get pipes rattling inside the walls.

I am planing to install water lines as you can see in the picture. Right now I I have a water hose that runs along the house, I am referring to the segment that goes along the wall between the patio and the house. The other two segments together with this one are what I am planing to install. For now I just have a water hose that I run along the line above described. There is a gap space between the house and the patio where a pipe/water hose fits just fine. My plan would be to install the first segment of the future irrigation system and to connect the water hose to it for now (no sprinklers so no water pressure loss) because I want to cover that gap with peanut size decorative stone. Later I would disconnect the water hose and fully install the irrigation system. As an alternate solution I would love to leave the water hose there till I proceed with the irrigation system plans but I am afraid that the water hose is not winter resistant, so my question is: can I put an irrigation system segment there and connect the water hose to it at at the point where the irrigation line reaches the corner of the house?

If the heater and vent were properly installed origionally,twisting the pipe will put it back in perfect alighnment. As I said before "it takes pratice" but once you master the techneque you might wonder why someone hasn't sold them as brain teasers. It require's all joints to move freely so if joints can't be freed up you might have to replace the flex joint.