Will these paint streaks disappear with the final coat?
Rachel L
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Rachel L
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Streak-free SS refrigerator
Comments (16)While it is true that you don't see smudges on the coated outside of the Electrolux refrgerators, I would urge you to stay away from ANY Electrolux regfrigerator! I was told that Electrolux products were good quality. How far from the truth! My refrigerator (3yrs. old, model:E23C75DSS4) has been a major disappointment. Many of my problems started right away. 1. The seal on the freezer must not be tight, because shortly after I bought it a had a pound of dead ants on the bottom shelf of the freezer. 2. It is very loud and runs almost constantly. My 30 year old GE was less noisy. 3. The coating, that is supposed to make the stainless steel smudgeproof works very well, but shortly after we bought it it started to bubble up. 4. The doors are not aligned. One is higher than the other and sticks further out. 5. It is supposed to a counter depth. That is absolutely not true. When the doors are opened all the way they will hit the edge of your counter top. 6. The doors are supposed to have a mechanism that prevents them from flying open past a 40 degree angle, unless you want them too. That "stop" does not work anymore. Now we have to hold the door in a position that will keep it from hitting the counter top. 7. By year two some sticky brown fluid had leaked out of the bottom right door hinge, causing it too creak very loudly when being opened. I get sick to my stomach when I think that I paid $2000 for this. It is not worth more than $500. Unfortunately due to the reputation of Electrolux in Europe we did not think that we needed to buy the extended warranty....See MorePlaster repair and skim coating questions ...
Comments (6)Hi, First off, it's natural for the white coat of plaster to have spiderweb cracks all over the surface. These are only in the white coat and are very closely spaced and interconnected. By closely I mean 1/4" apart. _Those_ are nothing to fix or worry about. Cracks that extend into the base coat, and have movement that you can see by pressing, and seem "broken" are something to fix. I like to spray the cracks with bonding agent (garden sprayer) and sponge the stuff in (don't leave any drips of bonding agent; hard to skim over them). It seems to stop any movement for some time. Then add fiberglass mesh tape and the durabond routine, as you have read. The closet area, maybe sand the mess a little smoother to take off any high spots, the prime and then tape. We always use an oil primer around unknown/unforeseeable problem areas, because it really seals anything "bad" like wallpaper glue and prevents problems in the future, and durabond or regular mud sticks to the primer. Regular mud is not optimal for plaster repair in areas where is has to build up thickness; that's where you run into drying cracks (plus it takes lots of time for all the water to evaporate) and when/if it ever gets wet again it falls off lime plaster in sheets. It won't fall off if you oil prime first, and use it sparingly. Use brown coat plaster like Structolite (or Gypsolite), on top of a bonding agent like Link or Plasterweld if down to the lath, use durabond or easysand when the white coat is damaged or missing, use regular mud only for small imperfections and the final touchups, and you'll be fine. Casey...See MoreStreaks in bathroom paint
Comments (15)"Water-whitening" can sometimes happen with latex-based coatings. Enough moisture makes its way into the coating film to swell the polymer particles, which normally are not 100% fused even though the pant has dried, resulting in micro-gaps which scatter light, thus causing the whiteness. It of course is not noticeable with white paints, but it can be with clear latex films, and with medium and dark colors. Tinted paints are generally made with more surfactants (soaps) than are white paints, which increases the tendency, because the surfactants increase water absorbancy by the dried paint. When the streaks dry out, the light scattering drops off, and may disappear altogether. As the shower is used over time, and condensation extracts the surfactants from the paint, whitening tendency will decrease." -John Stauffer, Technical Director, Rohm and Hass Paint Quality Institute Water Whitening is a form of leaching but it's not the same thing as typical surfacant leaching that can look brownish, or like syrup. This leaching is completely clear and dries out and disappears within hours of it occurring. I have noticed cheaper paints can let go of color along with moisture and surfacants. The better grades/brands recover from the water whitening quicker and they have a better chance of releasing the surfacants to the point of the problem completely going away with time. It can look like the walls are bleeding in white streaks and people's first inclination is to wipe the walls. I kinda think the best thing to do is leave it alone. Make sure the bathroom is well ventilated, let it dry out naturally each time and just wait it out til one day it just quits happening. Couple things I believe people don't understand about water whitening is it CAN HAPPEN WITH ANY PAINT or combination of primer and paint. Bathroom paint or 'regular' paint - it still happens. Oil primer under - it still happens, etc., etc. etc. As I understand it - and have seen happen - if your top coat is prone to "normal" water whitening, it's going to happen regardless. Just have to wait for the surfacants to work out of the film....See MoreHow to paint Baseboards Without Getting Streaks
Comments (27)"The reliabiltiy of your recomendations just suffered pretty badly if you cannot recognize advertising BS ("very thin because they use formulated with microscopic resins") from reality. Resins are liquids in a solvent. Not solids." Sticking up for MichaelÂs reliability and to correct your fallacy. The resin may be introduced as a liquid, but they do contain solids. A latex resin in a paint formulation for example may contain 50 to 60 or so percent solids, which contributes to the bottom line in a solids calculation. "The solvent content determines how thick the paint is, not the use of "microscopic resins". The resin is individual molecules in a carrier solvent." Nanosphere, ie microscopic resins and colloidal chemistry in both the pigments and the resin can be used to reduce or enhance the thickness and viscosity of the final liquid paint product without regard to solvent content. Just because you donÂt understand the science of formulating with chemistry doesnÂt mean its advertising BS. Just to be simplistic, I can have two pans of beef broth on the stove. Throw just a bit of flour into one and voila itÂs thick and it is in little way different in terms of solvent content compared to the other. In regards to the recommendation to add Floetrol to existing paint. What does this do to the overall chemistry of the paint in terms of durability, VOC emissions, etc?...See MoreRachel L
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