Yeah...there's never a 100% correct answer for this scenario! You did the perfect prep by physically sanding the trim! * Priming would be the "Ideal", but if existing paint was cleaned/firm/well-attached, the benefit of priming is minimal. * If you're in the "It's gotta look damn-near perfect" expectation-level, then yes...prime....and lightly scuff-sand the primer after its dried for a half-day! * Your white-ish color has the best "hide/opacity" of a particular tint-base series. Two finish coats preferred however for best color-depth, gloss-developement, and durability. Faron

I wouldn't use the Regal line for trim. It's just not fun to apply, even for a pro. A better choice would be the Waterborne Satin Impervo or Aura. If you do choose the Aura, keep in mind that there is a small learning curve in that it is a very fast dryer, so working in sections you can handle is very important. Pro Classic from SW, Muralo Ultra and C2 are other good choices for trim paint. You can have those non BM paints matched in BM White Dove. When sanding, the goal should be clean and dull. You are not looking to sand the previous finish off, only to dull it. You can clearly see when you run your sanding block over an area that the sheen goes away. That is what you want. I wouldn't say that you need to press hard, but apply some pressure for sure. I usually will do 2-3 passes with the sanding block over an area before moving on. For primers, you want to select a bonding acrylic primer (latex). Pro Block, Zinnser 123, C2 One are examples. Not Kilz2.

Hi christophern, Thanks for your advice. I primed on a small painted wall to see how it goes. This surface had bubble before but when i primed to see what it does,the bubbles came up again. I think i cant do anything for these bubbles now. Only the bit that i have plastered should be fine to paint but i am really upset with the other surface that had bubbled and is not plastered. I am been doing this since weeks to sort out these bubbles but no good results. Atlast i am just going to paint the whole wall and see what happens and wait till the paint dry so that i can burst those bubbles and flatten them. I hope this shouldn't look very messy. Please let me know if you have any idea. Thanks.

Hello Ivette! WOW! Are you serious?! EIGHT coats...hoo boy! Ralph Lauren (made now by ICI paints) has greatly improved over the last 5 yrs. If you use RL again, look for the newest 35xx tint-base numbering. The previous numbering system was 15xx. Example, the current Eggshell Brilliant-White tintbase is 3591. For a Satin dark color (Neutral base), it's 3293. We sell lots of Ralph L. "Reds" where I work, and we don't let people out the door without gray-primer to go with it! You DO need a 5-6 hr. drytime between coats though! There's about 13oz's. of colorant in those reds, so it dries SLOWER. It takes a full 1.5 minutes for our computer tinters to dispense a gallon of it! Doesn't matter what "brand" of red it is, gray is the proper background. About 1/3 of the time, a 3rd coat may be necessary if the wall is strongly lit. I love the Ralph L. reds, and many of our clients do too. Some have even come back to thank us for "forcing" the gray-primer on them! See ya, Faron